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Forum: My 74 has a basic HEI Dist. I need to dial in 19* to get 32* total.
I need to know who I can sent my Dist so I can get more initial advance.
Do I need to go MSD of some kind?
^This^. Unlike an MSD-style small body distributor, there are no advance stop bushings available to limit centrifugal advance on an original GM HEI distributor. A screw, along with some trial and error, is about the only way. I'm not sure how big your cam is, but I got my big block idling nicely with an HEI using 12 degrees initial and 34 total with 12 degree vacuum advance can with full manifold vacuum. This gave me 24 degrees of timing at idle.
Forum: My 74 has a basic HEI Dist. I need to dial in 19* to get 32* total.
I need to know who I can sent my Dist so I can get more initial advance.
Do I need to go MSD of some kind?
TIA
R
Set it at 36* at 3000rpm, and try that setting. (Disconnect vacuum when setting).
Yes, but first assure that at 3000, the flyweights are at their end stop, otherwise you will go over 52 total including vacuum.
If the flyweights are not at their end stop at 3000, different springs need to be installed.
I get full advance at 2800.
Problem is I need more than the 13* mechanical advance.
I have to start at 19* initial and 13* mechanical = 32*
My engine likes 32* says the dyno.
I get full advance at 2800.
Problem is I need more than the 13* mechanical advance.
I have to start at 19* initial and 13* mechanical = 32*
My engine likes 32* says the dyno.
What are my options if any?
TIA
R
1) Put a limit screw in the centrifugal advance mechanism per the above.
2) Keep initial timing at 13 degrees and add idle timing via vacuum advance.
3) Get a non-HEI distributor that uses advance stop bushings.
HEI curve kits don't limit total centrifugal advance like they do on small body distributors. Regardless of springs/weights used, you'll still end up with 20-22 degrees centrifugal advance. The RPM where full advance is realized will vary based on springs used, but they all end up with 20+ degrees on an HEI.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Best option, but it does cost $$$, is buy a programmable ignition setup. I eventually went this route because you can program both mech'l and vacuum advance to create whatever curve you want in just minutes! I have the Mallory Max Fire.
I get full advance at 2800.
Problem is I need more than the 13* mechanical advance.
I have to start at 19* initial and 13* mechanical = 32*
My engine likes 32* says the dyno.
What are my options if any?
TIA
R
Any good custom distributor tuner should be able to custom curve your HEI. If there are none near you, give Davis DUI a call or check out their website. I have a custom curved HEI from them done to my specs of 16º mechanical + 20° initial = 36° total @ 2600 rpm.
Last edited by C3 Stroker; Jan 5, 2017 at 01:58 AM.
Reason: Added information.
Any good custom distributor tuner should be able to custom curve your HEI. If there are none near you, give Davis DUI a call or check out their website. I have a custom curved HEI from them done to my specs of 16º mechanical + 20° initial = 36° total @ 2600 rpm.
Any good custom distributor tuner should be able to custom curve your HEI. If there are none near you, give Davis DUI a call or check out their website. I have a custom curved HEI from them done to my specs of 16º mechanical + 20° initial = 36° total @ 2600 rpm.
I was checking the rebuild services and no one seems to post a price for services any more.
I'm sure they would rather sell me their product. I would rather get mine rebuilt.
That way I don't have a spare Dist that I don't need!
Anyone know how much?
I was checking the rebuild services and no one seems to post a price for services any more.
I'm sure they would rather sell me their product. I would rather get mine rebuilt.
That way I don't have a spare Dist that I don't need!
Anyone know how much?
You will have to call and talk to Steve Davis at Performance Distributors, as I've been told he does not use the normal "kits", but tunes the weights and springs manually on a machine to each customer's specs. There is a local shop in my city (Performance Specialties) that does it the same way, "old school style," on a Sun machine. It seems not too many tuners curve HEI's because of the extra work and time involved, but they can be curved (even locked out) just like other distributors.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
The money you save by having a shop recurve your dist, imo, would be better spent on a programmable dist with the benefits I mentioned previously. What if a recurve is still not to your liking? No problem when you can program the curve yourself in minutes and use trial and error on your time to dial it in. For me, it was well worth the few hundred extra to have this ability.
The money you save by having a shop recurve your dist, imo, would be better spent on a programmable dist with the benefits I mentioned previously. What if a recurve is still not to your liking? No problem when you can program the curve yourself in minutes and use trial and error on your time to dial it in. For me, it was well worth the few hundred extra to have this ability.
I agree with you. Recurving the HEI is no different than any other distributor (springs and weights). The issue is how to limit the mechanical advance to something less than approx. 22 degrees. You have to find a way to positively stop the mechanical advance plate or else the mechanism will keep advancing until it reaches the factory determined advance limit. You can use stiffer springs so that the unit never actually reaches full mechanical advance prior to engine redline, but this changes the entire curve. The only way I see to limit mechanical advance is the 'screw method' discussed above. But I'm curious how DUI does it.
From: Some days your the dog and some days your the hydrant.
Royal Canadian Navy
Originally Posted by Neil B
I agree with you. Recurving the HEI is no different than any other distributor (springs and weights). The issue is how to limit the mechanical advance to something less than approx. 22 degrees. You have to find a way to positively stop the mechanical advance plate or else the mechanism will keep advancing until it reaches the factory determined advance limit. You can use stiffer springs so that the unit never actually reaches full mechanical advance prior to engine redline, but this changes the entire curve. The only way I see to limit mechanical advance is the 'screw method' discussed above. But I'm curious how DUI does it.
When I used a limiting screw in the hei, I managed to limit the mech'l advance to ~14* and initial set at 18*. It only took an hour or so by filing edge of screw, install, check timing, remove screw, file, etc. Having this know how to very simply limit the advance, I don't know why anyone would send their dist out for a recurve. The only other need is the lighter springs. However, I wanted even more tune-ability so I bought the Max Fire. No regrets whatsoever.