cam choice for 383






Last edited by 63mako; Jan 9, 2017 at 11:56 PM.





Side pipes are loosing you power. They are not tuned length headers
Years ago I had a hoped up th350 behind my 355 ci motor it always seemed to end up with busted chunk of metal in the pan. I can't imagine that with a 4000 stall yours is working. Lol
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I only buy billet steel with sleeved on dizzy gear

This is a 406 with a set of 210 Profilers and similar cam.
Chris: Do you recommend the same intake / exhaust split across the Profiler line or were you specifically referring to the 210cc Profilers? (because I believe the exhaust CFM is the same across their range from 185cc - 210cc and only the intake CFM changes-- to me that would indicate that the ideal split would change depending upon intake CC- no?)
Adam





I have two solid roller street/track motors. Each of them have had to be rebuilt my 434 SBC is on it's third and I'm still using the same Crane Pro lifters on each. I have not kept real good records of the total miles. But I imagine that it you build them right and have a 7000 rpm rev limiter they seem to outlast the motors.
My first street SR with an off the shelf Crane cam and cheap roller lifters failed during my second year. It was just a fluke that I caught it. I had blown the head copper gasket while running around a road racing track and upon tear down inspection I had a couple of wheels with early wheel baring failure. They were crunchy to roll around in your fingers.
So to make solid roller lifters last, you have the following considerations. quality of the lifter, total weight of the valve train, how radical the cam lobe is, spring weight open and closed, oiling system, and valve control. If you ever go into valve float you can beat up the wheels in an instant. So valve control is quality springs in conjunction with a rev limiter.
Crane Pro lifters are among the top shelf somewhere around $800 per set. Chris Struab has his brand for about $900.
Crane pro lifters are light weight, my comp cams custom 80 wall 5/16th, Comp cams pro steel roller rockers, 10 degree lock chromoly retainers, Manley 2.10 and other head 2.08 proflow valves, my comp cam spring are dual 1.56 or 1.60 diameter. So my valve train is light. About all I could do it titanium retainers and or intake valves.
I have fairly radical lobes out of the comp cams lobe pages. fast lift and slower closing.
I buy say 240 closed 560 pound springs. with installed heights of 2.00 inches then i install them at say 2.05 inches and drop the closed and open rates to say 205 pounds closed. this is plenty good for light weight valve train in a sub 7000 rpm environment.
I use high volume pumps with priority mains oiling systems, 8 quarts, non bypass. I use oil weight to adjust the max oil pressure hot. My motors idle at 1000 ish hot which also helps lube the rollers.
I would say that I have over 30,000 lots of hard miles on each of these motors. It just takes some thought, I use VR1 racing oil. My water temp is always around 200 and I use 195 thermostats to get my chokeless motors up to heat fast before i ever really move them.
I've driven my vette straight through one way 2000 miles with just gas and go only to come home the same way a week later
Chris: Do you recommend the same intake / exhaust split across the Profiler line or were you specifically referring to the 210cc Profilers? (because I believe the exhaust CFM is the same across their range from 185cc - 210cc and only the intake CFM changes-- to me that would indicate that the ideal split would change depending upon intake CC- no?)
Adam
I have two solid roller street/track motors. Each of them have had to be rebuilt my 434 SBC is on it's third and I'm still using the same Crane Pro lifters on each. I have not kept real good records of the total miles. But I imagine that it you build them right and have a 7000 rpm rev limiter they seem to outlast the motors.
My first street SR with an off the shelf Crane cam and cheap roller lifters failed during my second year. It was just a fluke that I caught it. I had blown the head copper gasket while running around a road racing track and upon tear down inspection I had a couple of wheels with early wheel baring failure. They were crunchy to roll around in your fingers.
So to make solid roller lifters last, you have the following considerations. quality of the lifter, total weight of the valve train, how radical the cam lobe is, spring weight open and closed, oiling system, and valve control. If you ever go into valve float you can beat up the wheels in an instant. So valve control is quality springs in conjunction with a rev limiter.
Crane Pro lifters are among the top shelf somewhere around $800 per set. Chris Struab has his brand for about $900.
Crane pro lifters are light weight, my comp cams custom 80 wall 5/16th, Comp cams pro steel roller rockers, 10 degree lock chromoly retainers, Manley 2.10 and other head 2.08 proflow valves, my comp cam spring are dual 1.56 or 1.60 diameter. So my valve train is light. About all I could do it titanium retainers and or intake valves.
I have fairly radical lobes out of the comp cams lobe pages. fast lift and slower closing.
I buy say 240 closed 560 pound springs. with installed heights of 2.00 inches then i install them at say 2.05 inches and drop the closed and open rates to say 205 pounds closed. this is plenty good for light weight valve train in a sub 7000 rpm environment.
I use high volume pumps with priority mains oiling systems, 8 quarts, non bypass. I use oil weight to adjust the max oil pressure hot. My motors idle at 1000 ish hot which also helps lube the rollers.
I would say that I have over 30,000 lots of hard miles on each of these motors. It just takes some thought, I use VR1 racing oil. My water temp is always around 200 and I use 195 thermostats to get my chokeless motors up to heat fast before i ever really move them.
I've driven my vette straight through one way 2000 miles with just gas and go only to come home the same way a week later
Just an FYI. Comp's owner bought Crane 2 years ago. They are all under the same umbrella now.
I sell the Morel lifters. Manufactured in Cleveland, OH by a shop full of Mikes, Georges, Johns, and Tims. One advantage Morel has over any other manufacturer is they have in house heat treat. This 100K square foot shop is self-sufficient when it comes to manufacturing having machining, grinding, and heat treat in house.
Prices on lifters range from $300 a set to $6000 a set depending on if you have a street machine or you have a NASCAR Team.





But anyway these bushed Morel S/R is what i was talking about. anyway my Crane ultra pro needles look similar to these needle models
http://online.flipbuilder.com/dgew/roam/#p=8
Last edited by gkull; Jan 11, 2017 at 06:08 PM.
But anyway these bushed Morel S/R is what i was talking about. anyway my Crane ultra pro needles look similar to these needle models
http://online.flipbuilder.com/dgew/roam/#p=8








