79 vette electric door actuator
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Hammond Louisiana
79 vette electric door actuator
Can anyone help me on how to remove and replace the electric door lock actuator. I replaced the switch and plug wire harness. It will lock the door but will not open. It locks and unlocks manually very easily. I'm thinking the actuator (solenoid) is bad.
Thanks
God Bless
Richard Landaiche
Thanks
God Bless
Richard Landaiche
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 58
Likes: 2
From: New Jersey
Here is a post I made to a previous odor lock thread, hopefully it can help...
I agree with Gusto, if you are hearing the pop yet the door is not reliably locking/unlocking, clean and lubricate the latch mechanism, lock rod pivot and all rod connections. I also installed the actuators that Willcox sells as my originals had enough drag to make using the key difficult. The replacement actuators are made overseas but work well and have a much nicer rubber boot than the originals. I purchased some metric button head Allen's to fit the supplied nut plates.
I did not have to replace switches but during research found that there are different grades of switches, some absolute junk and some decent replacements. I have also read that some replacements don't have the word "LOCK" on the bezel.
Another common area for trouble is the switch pigtail.
You of course need to remove the door panels but all in all, working in the doors was quite rewarding when finished. Great opportunity to clean, lube and get the power windows working smoothly.
There was a helpful article that I found while searching Corvette Enthusiast magazine titled, Tired of Key Twisting. I don't have the link handy but if you don't find it let me know.
My car is a 79.
I agree with Gusto, if you are hearing the pop yet the door is not reliably locking/unlocking, clean and lubricate the latch mechanism, lock rod pivot and all rod connections. I also installed the actuators that Willcox sells as my originals had enough drag to make using the key difficult. The replacement actuators are made overseas but work well and have a much nicer rubber boot than the originals. I purchased some metric button head Allen's to fit the supplied nut plates.
I did not have to replace switches but during research found that there are different grades of switches, some absolute junk and some decent replacements. I have also read that some replacements don't have the word "LOCK" on the bezel.
Another common area for trouble is the switch pigtail.
You of course need to remove the door panels but all in all, working in the doors was quite rewarding when finished. Great opportunity to clean, lube and get the power windows working smoothly.
There was a helpful article that I found while searching Corvette Enthusiast magazine titled, Tired of Key Twisting. I don't have the link handy but if you don't find it let me know.
My car is a 79.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,365
Likes: 428
From: Cape Girardeau Missouri
Actually they're motors and not solenoids.
As long as you're certain it's attempting to unlock I suspect that you are correct and the actuator needs to be replaced. The passenger side on my '79 is developing the same problem and I'm positive that all of the mechanism is clean and well lubricated.
Replacement isn't difficult. Remove the door panel of course. Then remove the access panel at the bottom of the door (a number of small hex head screws around the perimeter and a bolt in the middle that holds the window motor into position).
The actuator is to the rear of the access hole. You'll be able to feel it. From the factory they're attached with 2? large pop rivets but these may have been replaced with bolts & nuts. Drill out the rivets or remove the bolts. You can then move the actuator to unhook it from the linkage. Install in reverse. If you're using bolts/nuts I prefer "stop nuts"--the kind with plastic at the end that won't loosen with vibration.
As long as you're certain it's attempting to unlock I suspect that you are correct and the actuator needs to be replaced. The passenger side on my '79 is developing the same problem and I'm positive that all of the mechanism is clean and well lubricated.
Replacement isn't difficult. Remove the door panel of course. Then remove the access panel at the bottom of the door (a number of small hex head screws around the perimeter and a bolt in the middle that holds the window motor into position).
The actuator is to the rear of the access hole. You'll be able to feel it. From the factory they're attached with 2? large pop rivets but these may have been replaced with bolts & nuts. Drill out the rivets or remove the bolts. You can then move the actuator to unhook it from the linkage. Install in reverse. If you're using bolts/nuts I prefer "stop nuts"--the kind with plastic at the end that won't loosen with vibration.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
Here is a post I made to a previous odor lock thread, hopefully it can help...
I agree with Gusto, if you are hearing the pop yet the door is not reliably locking/unlocking, clean and lubricate the latch mechanism, lock rod pivot and all rod connections. I also installed the actuators that Willcox sells as my originals had enough drag to make using the key difficult. The replacement actuators are made overseas but work well and have a much nicer rubber boot than the originals. I purchased some metric button head Allen's to fit the supplied nut plates.
I did not have to replace switches but during research found that there are different grades of switches, some absolute junk and some decent replacements. I have also read that some replacements don't have the word "LOCK" on the bezel.
Another common area for trouble is the switch pigtail.
You of course need to remove the door panels but all in all, working in the doors was quite rewarding when finished. Great opportunity to clean, lube and get the power windows working smoothly.
There was a helpful article that I found while searching Corvette Enthusiast magazine titled, Tired of Key Twisting. I don't have the link handy but if you don't find it let me know.
My car is a 79.
I agree with Gusto, if you are hearing the pop yet the door is not reliably locking/unlocking, clean and lubricate the latch mechanism, lock rod pivot and all rod connections. I also installed the actuators that Willcox sells as my originals had enough drag to make using the key difficult. The replacement actuators are made overseas but work well and have a much nicer rubber boot than the originals. I purchased some metric button head Allen's to fit the supplied nut plates.
I did not have to replace switches but during research found that there are different grades of switches, some absolute junk and some decent replacements. I have also read that some replacements don't have the word "LOCK" on the bezel.
Another common area for trouble is the switch pigtail.
You of course need to remove the door panels but all in all, working in the doors was quite rewarding when finished. Great opportunity to clean, lube and get the power windows working smoothly.
There was a helpful article that I found while searching Corvette Enthusiast magazine titled, Tired of Key Twisting. I don't have the link handy but if you don't find it let me know.
My car is a 79.
I bought 2 new switches from Lectric Limited. One switch the pin pushed into the switch the first time I plugged it into THEIR repair harness. They are junk as well.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Hammond Louisiana
Electric windows 79 vette
Actually they're motors and not solenoids.
As long as you're certain it's attempting to unlock I suspect that you are correct and the actuator needs to be replaced. The passenger side on my '79 is developing the same problem and I'm positive that all of the mechanism is clean and well lubricated.
Replacement isn't difficult. Remove the door panel of course. Then remove the access panel at the bottom of the door (a number of small hex head screws around the perimeter and a bolt in the middle that holds the window motor into position).
The actuator is to the rear of the access hole. You'll be able to feel it. From the factory they're attached with 2? large pop rivets but these may have been replaced with bolts & nuts. Drill out the rivets or remove the bolts. You can then move the actuator to unhook it from the linkage. Install in reverse. If you're using bolts/nuts I prefer "stop nuts"--the kind with plastic at the end that won't loosen with vibration.
As long as you're certain it's attempting to unlock I suspect that you are correct and the actuator needs to be replaced. The passenger side on my '79 is developing the same problem and I'm positive that all of the mechanism is clean and well lubricated.
Replacement isn't difficult. Remove the door panel of course. Then remove the access panel at the bottom of the door (a number of small hex head screws around the perimeter and a bolt in the middle that holds the window motor into position).
The actuator is to the rear of the access hole. You'll be able to feel it. From the factory they're attached with 2? large pop rivets but these may have been replaced with bolts & nuts. Drill out the rivets or remove the bolts. You can then move the actuator to unhook it from the linkage. Install in reverse. If you're using bolts/nuts I prefer "stop nuts"--the kind with plastic at the end that won't loosen with vibration.
Thanks Mike. Manually everything works well. Were would you suggest I purchase the motor from?
God Bless
Rich
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
I buy mine from DORMAN. Slight trimming on the rubber weather boot so I can attach the electrical connector and a slight filing on the bracket off your original makes them work. More than worth it to me. I also weld on 1/4-20 nuts to the bracket so I do not need to pop-rivet it back in place..I simply bolt it in.
I will say this....because I have had BRAND NEW A/C Delco ones that were really tight and not good for this application.
Your Corvette has a fiberglass composite door skin. NOT METAL....so...If you buy one...you want to take it by hand and make sure the plunger moves in and out basically effortlessly.
IF it is not free flowing movement....then...even though it may work electrically....but when you go to unlock the door with your door key....NOW...you are having to use excessive force and THUS...this can begin to damage your fiberglass area around your lock cylinder....AND....also begin to put wear marks on your lock cylinder shaft on the backside where the pawl is attached....thus causing its range of movement to change and can cause your alarm system not to work correctly or be REALLY touchy.
DUB
I will say this....because I have had BRAND NEW A/C Delco ones that were really tight and not good for this application.
Your Corvette has a fiberglass composite door skin. NOT METAL....so...If you buy one...you want to take it by hand and make sure the plunger moves in and out basically effortlessly.
IF it is not free flowing movement....then...even though it may work electrically....but when you go to unlock the door with your door key....NOW...you are having to use excessive force and THUS...this can begin to damage your fiberglass area around your lock cylinder....AND....also begin to put wear marks on your lock cylinder shaft on the backside where the pawl is attached....thus causing its range of movement to change and can cause your alarm system not to work correctly or be REALLY touchy.
DUB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
I can vouch for this. My 81 is real touchy now. Alarm has a mind of its own.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Thanks for replying to this.
AND..I might add...that a person will want to test the door key once everything is lubed up and installed. Because the door key is actually moving the plunger in the pwoer door lock actuator.
DUB
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