One of the more respected engine builders in my area (Boston) said he would charge $4K to rebuild my 350/270 to stock specs. That's with me removing, delivering, and reinstalling the engine.

He said no warranty either, as he couldn't be sure I would be breaking the engine in properly.

For an additional $1K, he'll break in/Dyno the engine (I still install it) and offer a 6 month warranty.

 

Might want to check around. That is spendy unless it is all new parts inside. Also a dyno run should be less than $1k. Around 1/2 of that is typical unless you are doing a bunch of tuning, etc that is taking a bunch of dyno time. If he is just bolting it up, verifying the timing and running it, $1k is too much. If he has to spend a bunch of time tuning on the dyno with his own build, you should probably check somewhere else also.

 

My guy charged me 3500 for all new componets, for 700, he found some ZL1 Aluminun heads for it. Total package was 4200 out the door dyno'ed and broke in. I had a push rod guide break, and they got me a new set. I would check around as the price he quoted you seems kind of high to me.

 

Unfortunately, that is about the going rate for top quality work in our area (I'm in RI). I rebuilt/upgraded my L-82 in 2014 but I did the engine removal, bought most of the major parts upgrade, installed the cam, heads, top end, and reinstalled the motor myself. The guy who did the work for me is HIGHLY respected in Southeastern Mass/RI (I can give you his name if you want) and I paid him to come to my house for the distributor install, initial startup/breakin, etc. I did consult with him before the upgraded parts were bought and installed and he did do various other work during the assembly process (Checked AFR heads over before I installed them, drilled/Tapped Temp sending hole for the OEM temp sender, minor porting cleanup of aluminum L-82 intake, etc). Here is the cost break down:

I paid the builder $3,500 for the following:

1. Picked up/returned partially disassembled and removed L-82 motor by me from my house
2. Block Prep, Boring, etc and painting of the completed block
3. All new bearings, JE Forged racing pistons/rings (purchased by him and installed)
4. Reconditioned L-82 rods, reconditioned L-82 forged Crank by builder
5. New Harmonic Balancer installed (purchased by builder)
6. Reconditioned OEM flywheel/RAM HDX Clutch kit (purchased by builder)..total assembly balanced by builder
7. Installed new oil pump and pan gasket (both purchased by me prior)


Purchased by me and installed by me..roughly $2,500:

1. AFR 180/64 CC aluminum heads/.015 head gaskets/ARP head bolts
2. New Fuel Pump
3. Howards Roller Cam (.525/110 LSA, 219/225 duration) kit and pushrods (measured by me)
4. New Motor mounts
5. Reused Comp Cams roller tipped 1.52 rockers (less than 25K on them)
6. Reused OEM type distributor
7. Reused Holley 4175 650 CFM Qjet replacement vacuum secondary car

All in about $6K BUT I pretty much have the best parts, did it myself, and know it was done correctly. The L-82 355 now has a roller cam with AFR heads with 10.2:1 and is powerful with tremendous mid range torque which was how the motor was designed to run by builder and myself.

I wanted to keep as much L-82 as possible but with tons more power. Could I have done it cheaper? Absolutely, but there are compromises for the less money and crate engines generally do not use the finest parts but a crate motor overall is a much easier route, less down time, warranty etc. Depends on your goals....

 

I am currently in the same situation, I am looking for a 383 for my car.
Problem is here in Belgium not a lot of engine builders and the ones that work on small blocks are extremely expensive.

So I am looking at blueprint or ATK for a engine

 

Pretty much the same thing happened to me with my ZZ5. BTW, Im very pleased with it!