Synthetic Oil
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 192
Likes: 54
Synthetic Oil
I apologize if this has been beaten to death but any replies or direction to an old thread would be appreciated!
The new Corvette shop I'm using has recommended Redline Synthetic oil in my '72 completely stock small block. Any opinions for or against?
The new Corvette shop I'm using has recommended Redline Synthetic oil in my '72 completely stock small block. Any opinions for or against?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,284
Likes: 1,171
From: Hermosa
I would have three concerns.
1) is this a flat tappet engine? If so then make sure you use an oil that has enough zinc in it. At least 1000 PPM for a stockish cam. 1200 or better if a high performance cam with high intensity.
If it'a a roller cam I would not worry about the zinc level, unless again we're talking high intensity cam.
2) I would not use synthetic during the break in period. Conventonal oil with proper zinc levels will ensure a good ring seal for the break in period. A good 1500 ish miles I would say. With a change after cam run in (flat tappet) then a change after a few hundred miles and finally changing to synthetic after the 1500 miles or so.
3) I have used redline in transmissions and it works good there. I have not used it in an engine.
The cost is pretty high in that application @ $50 or so a gallon. If you don't drive it a lot then you won't be able to take advantage of the extended change intervals that synthetic can offer. Which if you use redline drives up the cost of operation quite a bit, which I believe offers no additional benifit over a more affordable synthetic oil.
1) is this a flat tappet engine? If so then make sure you use an oil that has enough zinc in it. At least 1000 PPM for a stockish cam. 1200 or better if a high performance cam with high intensity.
If it'a a roller cam I would not worry about the zinc level, unless again we're talking high intensity cam.
2) I would not use synthetic during the break in period. Conventonal oil with proper zinc levels will ensure a good ring seal for the break in period. A good 1500 ish miles I would say. With a change after cam run in (flat tappet) then a change after a few hundred miles and finally changing to synthetic after the 1500 miles or so.
3) I have used redline in transmissions and it works good there. I have not used it in an engine.
The cost is pretty high in that application @ $50 or so a gallon. If you don't drive it a lot then you won't be able to take advantage of the extended change intervals that synthetic can offer. Which if you use redline drives up the cost of operation quite a bit, which I believe offers no additional benifit over a more affordable synthetic oil.
Last edited by REELAV8R; Jan 26, 2017 at 05:08 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,453
Likes: 976
From: RI, Now Franklin/Nashville TN
That's an easy answer...If you want to give any engine the maximum potential for longevity, a synthetic oil is the only way that will happen. Does not mean conventional oil will not be adequate...of course it is..but for the best potential engine benefit, synthetic is the way to go....
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 37,637
Likes: 3,118
From: Crossville TN
With regular oil, engine wear is very slow to occur if you treat the engine right and change oil and filter regularly.
With full synthetic oil, engine wear is almost nonexistent. If an older engine is in reasonably good condition, switching to full synthetic oil can extend useful life considerably [MUCH further than is staying with regular oil].
That's exactly why I switched; I'm just trying to have my engine live as well as it can for as long as it can.
If you find some oil leaks after switching to synthetic, it just means that you have worn seals that are still "adequate" for conventional oil...but not for synthetic oil, which has much smaller molecular size. Your choice would be to go back to regular oil, or to fix the worn seals/gaskets.
With full synthetic oil, engine wear is almost nonexistent. If an older engine is in reasonably good condition, switching to full synthetic oil can extend useful life considerably [MUCH further than is staying with regular oil].
That's exactly why I switched; I'm just trying to have my engine live as well as it can for as long as it can.
If you find some oil leaks after switching to synthetic, it just means that you have worn seals that are still "adequate" for conventional oil...but not for synthetic oil, which has much smaller molecular size. Your choice would be to go back to regular oil, or to fix the worn seals/gaskets.