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My neighbor is having some paint and body work done on his '73 Camaro. I'm going to the same shop today to get an estimate on a repraint of my '79.
My neighbor said that the body shop uses some type of spray on filler that goes on about 1/8" thick. It is then block sanded down as required. Sounds kind of like a spray-on bondo to me. He wasn't sure of the name but it was something like "skis" ???
Is this something that a quality shop would do or is it Earl Schieb work?
Was it "SlickSand"? That's the newer version of FeatherFill. Personally, I'd stay away from it. Unless you need lots of leveling and such, I'd go with a modern 2 part epoxy primer/sealer over the bare glass, followed by a urethane 2K primer/surfacer for high build. Block down the surfacer and you'll end up with a nice smooth surface for paint.
I've seen too many problems with urethane paint softening the older polyester and lacquer based surfacers like featherfill and slicksand. If you're shooting a lacquer paintjob they may be OK.
Hopefully he didn't really say....one-eighth of an inch. If he did....time to find a new painter. I'm sure he really meant a 2 or 3 thousandths of an inch. Nobody sprays .125" worth of material on a car. Your doorhandles would be flush with the paint....yikes.....!!!!!
Hopefully he didn't really say....one-eighth of an inch. If he did....time to find a new painter. I'm sure he really meant a 2 or 3 thousandths of an inch. Nobody sprays .125" worth of material on a car. Your doorhandles would be flush with the paint....yikes.....!!!!!
These were my neighbor's words and descriptions, not the painter's.
featherfill sucks.. I'll just put it plain and simple.. its hard to spray, and damn near impossible to sand out. i think its a waste of time. you are much better off with ppg's primer known as K36. you can bury the thing on and it fills really good. but why would you want the primer to fill? thats just for little sand scratches and not body work.
featherfill sucks.. I'll just put it plain and simple.. its hard to spray, and damn near impossible to sand out. i think its a waste of time. you are much better off with ppg's primer known as K36. you can bury the thing on and it fills really good. but why would you want the primer to fill? thats just for little sand scratches and not body work.
K36 is a primer/sealer and not a filler!! is almost damn impossible to sand at all!!! :nono:
K36 is a primer/sealer and not a filler!! is almost damn impossible to sand at all!!! :nono:
I've sprayed K36 before, i know its not a filler, but you can bury small imperfections in the K36 and will not show up EVER again. i had no problems sanding that primer at all.
K36 is a primer/sealer and not a filler!! is almost damn impossible to sand at all!!! :nono: I've sprayed K36 before, i know its not a filler, but you can bury small imperfections in the K36 and will not show up EVER again. i had no problems sanding that primer at all.
I stand corrected!! I meant DP74 red primer/sealer. The K36 is what I used to fill my car imperfections and it sanded great. :cheers:
Lars did something like you're describing on a C2, can't remember the name of the stuff he used but he said it works great when a car's body is really wavy and had lots of previous body work performed. Check the archives, that car came out great and the owner was very happy. You could IM the owner and verify how happy he was/is.
PPG K36 primer/surfacer is the stuff to use. I put 4 coats over a epoxy sealer then wet sanded useing a guide coat. This was then followed by another coat of K36 mixed as a sealer.
Corzvette hit the nail on the head with featherfill. It's a lazy bodyman's way of quick build up with very bad long term results. It's true that a body can be shot with it, blocked straight, and painted in short order, but it doesn't stay that way in the long haul and you're in a helluva mess if you have to try to feather it to make a repair or much worse if the car is ever to be stripped again. Paint stripper turns it to a chewing gum goo all over the car and there's nothing strong enough to really strip it without attacking the glass. I personally wouldn't use it on a rusty wheelbarrow.
Quote "The whole thing is really coming out straight, and as soon as he does a little grinding and blending on the work we did today, he'll be ready for a nice thick coat of polyester spraycoat. We'll be applying that right over the top of an epoxy primer coat, and then it's on to blocking and final fill priming." Quote
There was another topic about the polyester but I couldn't find it . . . If Lars used it, it's gotta be good stuff. Check with the shop and see what product it is exactly.
I have used this stuff many times .It is commonly reffered as poly fill .It has gotten a bad rap from people abusing it ,trying to fill small dents and hail damage.As far as corvettes ,I have used it on extremely wavy cars .The way I look at it is ,basically it is thin body filler .Thick primer will crack before thick body filler will crack .Basically what I am saying is ,you have to fix the waves one way or another so why not spray a couple of coats of this first.I always block sand it until see bare glass start to peek through.That tells me that it is almost straight and the poly fill isnt that thick. Then I ll Spray 2 coats of DP primer and 3 coats K36 and block that .After that ,it should be ready . :yesnod: :yesnod: