Brake Proportion block replacement tips/tricks
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 187
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville-Area FL
Brake Proportion block replacement tips/tricks
Need to replace my brake proportion block as it is leaking from the connection for the rear lines.. not bad but just the same. Anyone have any tricks when swapping the lines from the Master so it does not leak every where. My hands are not that fast to not make a mess...
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 38,923
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From: Southbound
Cruise-In II Veteran
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 187
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville-Area FL
I am hoping it's just the block.. replacing that back line is a pita...I had replaced all my lines with stainless about 2 years ago or so and did not do the block..
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 31,339
Likes: 4,459
From: Westminster Maryland
Hi kc,
The stainless steel lines, while pretty, are sometimes very difficult to achieve a leak free seal with. This is especially true if the lines have been installed with the body on the frame which limits access to working on the connections.
The line itself must be in perfect alignment with the distribution block opening.
When it's not, people use the tightening of the flare nut to 'pull' the line into place. This works to some degree with Bundy steel lines because they're so much more flexible, but not very well at all with stainless lines which are so ridged.
Could that be your problem?
Regards,
Alan
The stainless steel lines, while pretty, are sometimes very difficult to achieve a leak free seal with. This is especially true if the lines have been installed with the body on the frame which limits access to working on the connections.
The line itself must be in perfect alignment with the distribution block opening.
When it's not, people use the tightening of the flare nut to 'pull' the line into place. This works to some degree with Bundy steel lines because they're so much more flexible, but not very well at all with stainless lines which are so ridged.
Could that be your problem?
Regards,
Alan
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 187
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville-Area FL
Hi kc,
The stainless steel lines, while pretty, are sometimes very difficult to achieve a leak free seal with. This is especially true if the lines have been installed with the body on the frame which limits access to working on the connections.
The line itself must be in perfect alignment with the distribution block opening.
When it's not, people use the tightening of the flare nut to 'pull' the line into place. This works to some degree with Bundy steel lines because they're so much more flexible, but not very well at all with stainless lines which are so ridged.
Could that be your problem?
Regards,
Alan
The stainless steel lines, while pretty, are sometimes very difficult to achieve a leak free seal with. This is especially true if the lines have been installed with the body on the frame which limits access to working on the connections.
The line itself must be in perfect alignment with the distribution block opening.
When it's not, people use the tightening of the flare nut to 'pull' the line into place. This works to some degree with Bundy steel lines because they're so much more flexible, but not very well at all with stainless lines which are so ridged.
Could that be your problem?
Regards,
Alan
Drifting
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From: Chardon Ohio
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Brett Foote
Safety Car
Joined: May 2004
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From: los altos hills california
If you read the (I think) Classic Tubes website on installation of SS lines, they say to repeatedly seat the fitting over and over, tighten a little more each time. Worked for me. And as Alan said, perfect alignment is key to a leak free installation. Do not try to force the alignment. I am on the fence as to whether to use anything to keep the threads from galling. Opinions differ on this. The seal is the flare, so it shouldn't matter as far as leaks go.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 6,553
Likes: 1,983
From: Temple Terrace Florida
I used teflon paste from Vette Brakes as a lubricate on the threads. Tighten and back off a few times until the fitting seats. Flair wrenches are a must. No leaks here. Jerry