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Wrapped up he hard parts of my TKO600 swap today and hooked the clutch mechanism back together. I've got a LOT of play in the clutch. When pressing the pedal down, it takes almost the whole pedal travel to disengage the clutch. It finally does disengage, at least.
I started by backing the adjustment link as far out on the rod as it would go.
Clutch adjustment with jam nuts backed out all the way
Is there any tips on getting more adjustment to bring the clutch in sooner? I'm concerned that the clutch fork is the culprit and REALLY not excited about pulling the trans again. At least, it should go quicker now that I've got some experience!
I inspected the clutch fork before reassembly and it did not appear bent.
Prior to the trans swap, the car had a VERY stiff clutch that also did not disengage until deep into the travel, similar to my current situation. I had hoped the new clutch would have helped to solve that issue.
Hav some other pics of the mechanical clutch setup as it is currently. Hoping someone out ther has a whiz bang idea (other than converting to a hydraulic setup!).
Or, am I just in trouble and need to replace the clutch fork.
To start I still run a Muncie and I'm not using the stock clutch linkage, I have the Speed Direct HEIM joint linkage.
The way I adjusted mine was to move the clutch fork by hand until I felt the throw-out bearing hit the pressure plate fingers. With that in place I then backed off the fork a little to get and estimated 1/4 inch away from the pressure plate fingers and the adjusted all the rods to that dimension.
Pedal travel is small. I have about an inch/inch-and-a-half from the floor until the clutch engages.
Hope this helps
I'm not familiar with the speed direct setup, but the procedure you describe to align is very close to the FSM method. I'll have to check on the heim joint you mention in case that is an option.
To start I still run a Muncie and I'm not using the stock clutch linkage, I have the Speed Direct HEIM joint linkage.
The way I adjusted mine was to move the clutch fork by hand until I felt the throw-out bearing hit the pressure plate fingers. With that in place I then backed off the fork a little to get and estimated 1/4 inch away from the pressure plate fingers and the adjusted all the rods to that dimension.
Pedal travel is small. I have about an inch/inch-and-a-half from the floor until the clutch engages.
Hope this helps
I would try this approach. I have the Speed Direct setup and recommend it highly. There are at least two different throw out bearings available, several clutch forks, and numerous pivot *****. Unless you have exactly the right parts for your car, the geometry will probably be off. Make sure you have the right parts and set it up as suggested.
I forgot to mention in my initial post that i am running a Centerforce DualForce clutch and original pivot ball. The clutch came new-in-box with the car, I never checked their site to see if a different height pivot ball would be required.
Been reading thru other postings on the clutch linkage and see that I should also check the z-bar mounting bracket for any weakness. V8ranger made a beefier one several years ago but sounds like no longer available.
Liking the speed direct option, looks like some members had issues with the bracket that mounts to the clutch fork and used a spacer to help tight everything down. Would certainly go that route.
I forgot to mention in my initial post that i am running a Centerforce DualForce clutch and original pivot ball. The clutch came new-in-box with the car, I never checked their site to see if a different height pivot ball would be required.
Been reading thru other postings on the clutch linkage and see that I should also check the z-bar mounting bracket for any weakness. V8ranger made a beefier one several years ago but sounds like no longer available.
Liking the speed direct option, looks like some members had issues with the bracket that mounts to the clutch fork and used a spacer to help tight everything down. Would certainly go that route.
Anything else I can check?
I had that problem with my kit and the spacer helps but I also bent the sides of the bracket so even if it does loosen up the bracket can not move too much.
I found out the hard way. I was shifting from 3rd to 2nd one day and the bracket came loose and slammed my clutch pretty bad then it wouldn't go in gear because I couldn't release the clutch anymore. Luckily I was real close to home and had my neighbor tow me to my driveway.
I thought it was going to be real bad but it just turned out to be that bracket. That is when I installed the spacer and bent "tabs" on the bracket. That is the weak point of the Speed Direct setup. I may have some picture laying around and if I find them I'll post them.
Last edited by theandies; Feb 16, 2017 at 05:42 PM.
Speedway and most speed shops sell adjustable rods. I picked up mine from Speedway and it gave me an extra 1.5 inch of adjustment.
this put the Z bar in the proper position.
The rod from the Z bar to the clutch fork was too short. This fixed the problem.
As stated above you can get HEMI ends or numerous other combinations.
My mistake was the original clutch fork was bad and I purchased a "factory replacement" which was off.. I did not want to drop the trans to adjust the ball.
Last edited by BLUE1972; Feb 16, 2017 at 11:39 PM.
My gut tells me you need a different pivot stud. When at rest...the throwout arm ought to be al the way forward where it's almost up against the front of the bellhousing opening. Then maybe a 1/4" or so between the throwout bearing and pressure plate when it's in that spot. You need a longer stud or the longer bearing or a combination of the two. That will put geometry correct and give you back some travel. McLeod makes a really neat "adjustable" length throwout bearing that gives you 3 choices in length by using spacers. Works great.
I believe the clutch fork rod for a 64-65 corvette looks exactly the same with both tabs for the anti rattle springs but is about 1.5 inches longer. If I remember correctly, it's 10.5 inches. This would put your adjuster back in the center and give you the pedal adjustment you want.
My gut tells me you need a different pivot stud. When at rest...the throwout arm ought to be al the way forward where it's almost up against the front of the bellhousing opening. Then maybe a 1/4" or so between the throwout bearing and pressure plate when it's in that spot. You need a longer stud or the longer bearing or a combination of the two. That will put geometry correct and give you back some travel. McLeod makes a really neat "adjustable" length throwout bearing that gives you 3 choices in length by using spacers. Works great.
JIM
My gut is also saying much the same. I'm going to pull the boot cover this morning and check the distance but have already begun thinking if the steps required to back the trans off. Also going to call Fidanza tech line this morning to get the flywheel deck height.
At least I'm getting good use of my custom guide bolts!
My new clutch fork and pivot ball arrived around noon and I was over to the garage shortly thereafter. Comparing the original pivot ball and the Lakewood adjustable showed big differences.
After some trial and error, I set the height of the adjustable pivot ball to 1.55". I started at the length of the "long" Gm stud, but it was causing some binding when putting in the trans. This length allows a little bit of travel at the top of the pedal before it makes contact with the clutch. Feels good.
Clutch fork was also replaced. The spring tabs were bent inwards on the original fork. All else seemed ok.
Original fork. Note bent spring tabs.
New clutch fork from Summit.
Going to finish TKO install tomorrow and dial in the alignment. Nice to have a hopefully happy ending!
My gut tells me you need a different pivot stud. When at rest...the throwout arm ought to be al the way forward where it's almost up against the front of the bellhousing opening. Then maybe a 1/4" or so between the throwout bearing and pressure plate when it's in that spot. You need a longer stud or the longer bearing or a combination of the two. That will put geometry correct and give you back some travel. McLeod makes a really neat "adjustable" length throwout bearing that gives you 3 choices in length by using spacers. Works great.
JIM
This is the correct answer
McCloud makes an adjustable pivot ball... get it
ps.. take the Centerforce clutch and throw it in the trash can... or sale it to someone else
they cause vibration... ALWAYS... the weights will never ever self center..
And if someone tells you they do, please have them explain how an off balance top will self center its weights... they don't! once the weights shift to one side,,, only god himself can recenter... and what makes them not go to one side??? NOTHING...
Last edited by pauldana; Feb 23, 2017 at 03:48 PM.
Help with Clutch Adjustment
I would try this approach. I have the Speed Direct setup and recommend it highly. There are at least two different throw out bearings available, several clutch forks, and numerous pivot *****. Unless you have exactly the right parts for your car, the geometry will probably be off. Make sure you have the right parts and set it up as suggested.
