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Anyone care to share their photos and techniques for adding torsional rigidity to our C3 frames. I am interested in each and everyones input that has actually done this and I am not interested in modern frames.
Thanks!
I'm not sure if I have any detail pictures of the cars I've worked on around, but I'll try to look later.
Years ago, there was a neat little book written by Karl Ludvigsen, about prepping a Corvette for road racing, the Guide to Corvette Speed. If you can find a copy, it's worth grabbing, because there is some great info in it about building a Corvette race car.
You might want to reach out to Forum member "POP". He was building a 71 for vintage racing last summer. These are pictures of his car from last April, maybe you can persuade him to post some more pictures.
I should have clarified, Im interested in additional and individual frame tweaks beside the Chevrolet Power Manual ones. I thank all who have posted and should have more focused in my question. I have occasionally ran across some road racers who added steel to their frames to increase rigidity in addition to Power Manual upgrades and roll cages. Any help? Once again, I appreciate all who have replied.
You are right , but the power manual covers most of it. The only additions I made was plating the frame where it kicks up , reinforcing the rear crossmember with small gussets and welding plates over the rear crossmember biscuits. After seeing weight on the rear suspension, now I wish I would have removed the rubber mounts and welded the rear cross member in and upward sucking the diff higher. I don't like the angle of the half shafts. Getting ready to put the cage in now, if you wish I will post some pics of the process.
I also made my own strut rod bracket , lowering the adjustable strut rods (also home made)and making the inner pivot height adjustable to adjust bump steer.
I agree with what has been said here, the key to a stiff chassis is in the proper roll CAGE tying everything together. I am prepping for SVRA vintage racing and am limited to how far I can go. What are your plans ?
You are right , but the power manual covers most of it. The only additions I made was plating the frame where it kicks up , reinforcing the rear crossmember with small gussets and welding plates over the rear crossmember biscuits. After seeing weight on the rear suspension, now I wish I would have removed the rubber mounts and welded the rear cross member in and upward sucking the diff higher. I don't like the angle of the half shafts. Getting ready to put the cage in now, if you wish I will post some pics of the process.
I also made my own strut rod bracket , lowering the adjustable strut rods (also home made)and making the inner pivot height adjustable to adjust bump steer.
I agree with what has been said here, the key to a stiff chassis is in the proper roll CAGE tying everything together. I am prepping for SVRA vintage racing and am limited to how far I can go. What are your plans ?
My plans are for a very sorted out car and I go back and forth. On one side is the period correct vintage racer look as this is what I grew up with during my formative years. However the mix of old and new done tastefully really appeals to me as well. I am not into competing as I have extinguished this gene in me and for good. This is not to say that I am against racing or auto crossing, but I wouldn't be a candidate at this stage of my life. I think I am into the Art of the upgrades as this has a place in car culture. I love the mechanical aspect and the thought process. Kind of like hanging your art on your wall versus driving your art at will. I also understand that others are touched with the same bug as I am, and have a different angle of interpretation that I can take inspiration from. This youtube video sums up my feelings well.
The Stang is pretty awesome , kinda over the top and he spent a TON of money on it not to mention a ton of hrs. Way cool ! That takes major dedication and part time a couple years at least. It took me I'm guessing 40 to 60 hrs work time to fully weld up and put in all the gussets for the frame, but I wasn't in a hurry as I was undergoing cancer treatment and it was good therapy for me.. got me off the couch for a couple hrs a day till I got too tired. Thats why the car isn't finished yet.
Sorry, off topic. Did you notice the roll bar in the Stang? If you at least put a rear bar in and tie the frame together with door bars it will increase the rigidity immensely. You can make the door bars removable if you want, there's some new hardware available that is pretty slick. I wasn't allowed to do that. I have rules to follow you don't. You can build to YOUR rules, that's cool too.
My desire is to have my car ready for this yrs Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix. You might want to come check it out.
Pop,
Sorry to hear the C word. That disease has altered my family in more ways than one. Continue on with the fight! Your car did get my attention and I may take you up on the offer. My wife is a Pennsylvania native and I did many hours of study there right down the road from the original Yenko Chevy, so getting over to Pennsylvania is easy to do. The roll bar 6-8 point is a must and I second your opinion on its strengthening aspect. What new hardware are you referencing?
I'm not home so I can't take pictures. But I bought the aluminum disks to replace the the rear different rubber mounted cross member. It cured my lower gears wheel hop along with qa1 dual adjustable shocks on all corners. Front coil overs are the best and speed direct sells the springs in 50 pound increments. I have 650 frontsand 520# mono rear
After cutting through the body to weld up the bars. I used aluminum to reseal the holes. I put down aluminum bubble heat barrier and then short pile flame retarded carpet. Drive line hoops and pass under the cross member exhaust system
Get rid of the the rear spare box. Rear cooler is a good idea. I use 85w-140 synpower and my rear gets so hot that you can't touch it after track session
I did not consider a rear diff cooler. Did you shoot it with a heat gun? Hmmmm.
Also like the driveshaft hoop I need to build one yet, it's required and will protect yer butt in case of a failure.
I have devised a way to run stock car front coils and made them adjustable, cheap and easy. Got 700 up front and 360 rear w/ small bars to start.
Like others have said with fully welding the frame, along with gussets at suspension points. Tying a cage into the front frame helps a lot, per many of the old timers hat I have talked to. One of the cars that was built like this was jacked up at front corner and the rear corner picked up at same time. I don't recall how far forward the bars in the front went. We were going to make an auto cross with fully welded frame, gussets (those are done) and full cage with interior. With venues getting fewer we stopped and still sorting out what to do.
Have a gutted 68 roadster with prepped chassis that is calling to be vintage raced. Need to get some other things done before can look further at that.
C3 Racing Chassis prep
