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Float is probably set too high. But, you should also check to make sure the vent over the float bowl is clear. If plugged, internal pressure build-up can cause what you are seeing.
My 'guess' is that your poly'foam' float is absorbing fluid and can not shut off fuel flow as it should. If it has been years since last carb rebuild, just rebuild it with a kit from NAPA and also purchase a brass float for your P/N Q-jet.
Not saying that float level isn't your problem but thats pretty common with modern fuels, especially with "winter blend" fuel. In the winter the fuel has more volatility to make up for the drop in ambient temp, higher volatility=lower boiling point. I used to have this problem before I started to mix 50/50 91 octane and VP100(available at the pump local to me).
People have reported good luck at eliminating this problem by blocking or restricting the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold.
If the float is no longer buoyant and has absorbed fuel, you can't set the float height and have it mean anything. You have to replace the float. It could simply be set too high, so that the fluid level is too high. But, since it hasn't always done this, it's more likely that the float is "toast".
If I take it apart I'll definitely change out the float. Looks like NAPA is the place to get a good one.
As far as getting the carb apart to get to the float, from what I'm reading it's 9 screws to get the air horn off. For just changing a float, what else will I need to do? Assuming the carb is out and I'm sitting at my kitchen table.
By the way, it has tried to die once or twice in 3 years during hard braking when I decided I shouldn't try to make a yellow light. could that be a sign of a high float as well?
Actually, the most difficult part of the 'partial' Q-Jet disassembly is managing the choke link that connects the choke plate to the choke mechanism (inside the right side of the carb body. You need to remove the screw at the choke plate without rotating that link (as it will dislodge from the transfer link to the choke shaft). The only way you can remove the top plate on the carb is to disconnect that choke link and to drive the roll-pin inward to free the accelerator pump arm.
Then you can remove the top plate screws and open it up. Getting it put back on without moving 'stuff' out of position is a little taxing, too.
the thermal Insulator was not the problem for hot start issues.
by just adding the thermal insulator your carb. will drop temperature about 100 degrees,
test it. run car to normal temperature, hold your hand on the carb. (as long as you can!)
install insulator, same test, insulated carb. will literally be cold.
Hot start issues likely is a choke adjustment issue. good luck !
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Edelbrocks are notorious for this. I rebuilt the carb, adjusted the floats and used a 1/2" wooden insulator and changed to an Air Gap manifold and it solved my boiling problems.
I would suggest a rebuild and proper adjustment, and add that factory insulator, then go from there. The crappy 10% ethanol is ruining alot of engines across the board
Anyone have a suggestion on how I can get some more room to put a spacer under my carb? Here is my setup, I got some of my kid's play dough and set it on top of my air cleaner to find out how much play I had above it. The play dough about the air cleaner **** was clear! About 1/32" between it and the hood. I guess the only fix would be a shorter air cleaner. Any suggestions? Thanks.