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Gas Boiling in Quadrajet

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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 03:39 PM
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Default Gas Boiling in Quadrajet


It's a 72 base engine. Stock appearing under the hood.

Car was running around 190 degrees. Turned it off and let it set for 10 minutes. Turned the key back on and temperature was up to 210.

Pulled the air cleaner lid off and saw this. I think it's been doing this for years. Just never pulled the lid at the right time.

I'd like to put an end to this. where do I start? I do have the GM heat shield under the carb but no spacer.
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 04:03 PM
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Float is probably set too high. But, you should also check to make sure the vent over the float bowl is clear. If plugged, internal pressure build-up can cause what you are seeing.

My 'guess' is that your poly'foam' float is absorbing fluid and can not shut off fuel flow as it should. If it has been years since last carb rebuild, just rebuild it with a kit from NAPA and also purchase a brass float for your P/N Q-jet.
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 10:37 PM
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When adjusting the float, would you lower it at, say, 1/32 increments? 1/16?
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 11:16 PM
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Part of it is the ethanol in our gas.

Last edited by F4Gary; Feb 18, 2017 at 11:16 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 11:20 PM
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Not saying that float level isn't your problem but thats pretty common with modern fuels, especially with "winter blend" fuel. In the winter the fuel has more volatility to make up for the drop in ambient temp, higher volatility=lower boiling point. I used to have this problem before I started to mix 50/50 91 octane and VP100(available at the pump local to me).

People have reported good luck at eliminating this problem by blocking or restricting the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold.
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Old Feb 18, 2017 | 11:41 PM
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Hi Barry,
Here are some measurements that you might try or you can wait until Lars posts the exact number for you.



Make sure that you get this 'clip' on correctly.

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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 12:03 AM
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If the float is no longer buoyant and has absorbed fuel, you can't set the float height and have it mean anything. You have to replace the float. It could simply be set too high, so that the fluid level is too high. But, since it hasn't always done this, it's more likely that the float is "toast".
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 11:48 AM
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If I take it apart I'll definitely change out the float. Looks like NAPA is the place to get a good one.

As far as getting the carb apart to get to the float, from what I'm reading it's 9 screws to get the air horn off. For just changing a float, what else will I need to do? Assuming the carb is out and I'm sitting at my kitchen table.
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 11:58 AM
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Install the original 1/4" (Thermal ) insulating gasket under the carburetor.
Fixed.
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 12:27 PM
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with above. I fought this with Holley carbs....SAME PROBLEM!!!

1)add base insulator under carb (I have one if it does not come in rebuild kit)
2)Make sure heat riser is kept open
3)Change to new or metal float

Last edited by mikem350; Feb 19, 2017 at 04:20 PM.
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 69Vett
Install the original 1/4" (Thermal ) insulating gasket under the carburetor.
Fixed.
Its been a couple years, but I was having problems starting it when it was hot when that was on there. That's why I tried this heat shield.
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 01:24 PM
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By the way, it has tried to die once or twice in 3 years during hard braking when I decided I shouldn't try to make a yellow light. could that be a sign of a high float as well?
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Old Feb 19, 2017 | 11:58 PM
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Actually, the most difficult part of the 'partial' Q-Jet disassembly is managing the choke link that connects the choke plate to the choke mechanism (inside the right side of the carb body. You need to remove the screw at the choke plate without rotating that link (as it will dislodge from the transfer link to the choke shaft). The only way you can remove the top plate on the carb is to disconnect that choke link and to drive the roll-pin inward to free the accelerator pump arm.

Then you can remove the top plate screws and open it up. Getting it put back on without moving 'stuff' out of position is a little taxing, too.
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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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the thermal Insulator was not the problem for hot start issues.
by just adding the thermal insulator your carb. will drop temperature about 100 degrees,
test it. run car to normal temperature, hold your hand on the carb. (as long as you can!)
install insulator, same test, insulated carb. will literally be cold.
Hot start issues likely is a choke adjustment issue. good luck !
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by 69Vett
Install the original 1/4" (Thermal ) insulating gasket under the carburetor.
Fixed.
I guess I'm searching for the wrong part, do you have a link or a part #? Thanks.
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 11:50 AM
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search for quadrajet carburetor insulator 1/4"
should look like this,
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Old Feb 23, 2017 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 69Vett
search for quadrajet carburetor insulator 1/4"
should look like this,
I wish I could find one of those for my Holley. Has to be non-phenolic.
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 04:17 PM
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Edelbrocks are notorious for this. I rebuilt the carb, adjusted the floats and used a 1/2" wooden insulator and changed to an Air Gap manifold and it solved my boiling problems.

I would suggest a rebuild and proper adjustment, and add that factory insulator, then go from there. The crappy 10% ethanol is ruining alot of engines across the board
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 04:25 PM
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Anyone have a suggestion on how I can get some more room to put a spacer under my carb? Here is my setup, I got some of my kid's play dough and set it on top of my air cleaner to find out how much play I had above it. The play dough about the air cleaner **** was clear! About 1/32" between it and the hood. I guess the only fix would be a shorter air cleaner. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 02:01 AM
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Drop base air cleaner is the least expensive way to go. But, I still think you have different problems than just 'hot' fuel.
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