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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 08:36 PM
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Default Water pump test

Is there a test for determining if a water pump impeller is worn?

My car temp increases from 185F to just over 210F with sustained RPM over 2500.

Idle speed temp is fine even on a hot day...temp stays down. Driving around up to 55 MPH slightly increases temp.to 200F. 70 Mph for an increased time on highway will get her too hot (over 220)

Seems it doesn't matter the temp outside .....I can increase engine temp on a cold day up over 210F just by driving in 3rd to keep the rpm's up.

Radiator recored
Lower hose spring installed
Radiator seals all in place
Lower air dam in place
Rad cap pressure tested OK
New thermostat 180F
Timing advanced to 14 Deg BTDC

My thought is a worn water pump impeller, but is there a way to tell?

73, 350 L82. Non AC, 4spd.
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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 08:59 PM
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Mine does that when I bump my timing up.
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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 09:41 PM
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I thought that retarding the timing made her run hotter? Maybe I have it backwards.
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Old Feb 20, 2017 | 09:56 PM
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I had that problem- I removed the front license plate and problem solved.
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Old Feb 21, 2017 | 10:30 PM
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It could still be a clogged radiator. Happened to me same symptoms. Did the block have lots of rust...it could have fouled the rad again.

Is your temp gauge accurate, checked with IR gun?

Initial timing sounds OK, and check mech advance, and keep vacuum advance hooked up
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Old Feb 22, 2017 | 10:56 AM
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what is your total mechanical advance timing without vacuum?
how many additional degrees from vacuum?
did you test the thermostat to see if it really opens at 180?
is this a standard thermostat or a wide mouth? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...make/chevrolet
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 06:49 PM
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So I have 34 Deg all in. 14 Deg BTDC with the vac advance plugged. Its 20 mechanical plus 14 at 3,000 RPM.

I have a standard thermostat....didn't know there was a wide mouth!

Another interesting thing is my temp gauge runs up and peaks at 210 as it warms up. When the thermostat opens it quickly drops back down to 180 on the gauge and stays there at idle.

I flush the rad every year, but have never opened the block drains since I don't know what I'll get myself into ....maybe its time.
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Old Feb 24, 2017 | 10:29 PM
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I replaced my original GM pump with a new aftermarket pump on my 73 just as a precaution with the idea of rebuilding the pump at a later date. I immediately noticed the new pump caused an increase of almost 10 degrees in temp. It still runs under 200 so no big deal. I'm not saying this is your problem, just sharing my recent experience .
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Joebrick

Another interesting thing is my temp gauge runs up and peaks at 210 as it warms up. When the thermostat opens it quickly drops back down to 180 on the gauge and stays there at idle.
This is a symptom of low coolant level. Make sure the coolant bottle is full and that the cap (for closed system) allows flow back and forth. Make sure the overflow hose has no breaks...and is tight on both ends.

Also would help hi speed cooling
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 03:41 PM
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Default Thermostat

Originally Posted by Joebrick
So I have 34 Deg all in. 14 Deg BTDC with the vac advance plugged. Its 20 mechanical plus 14 at 3,000 RPM.

I have a standard thermostat....didn't know there was a wide mouth!

Another interesting thing is my temp gauge runs up and peaks at 210 as it warms up. When the thermostat opens it quickly drops back down to 180 on the gauge and stays there at idle.

I flush the rad every year, but have never opened the block drains since I don't know what I'll get myself into ....maybe its time.

I would test that thermostat in a pot of heating water to see if it is really opening at 180
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Old Feb 25, 2017 | 11:23 PM
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Retarding the timing makes the combustion chamber run hotter. If that continued for a significant period of time, it would cause the coolant to run hotter, too.
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