1968 427 L88
Don't shoot from the hip in making a decision to buy such a car unless your talking about something in the neighborhood of $20-30K, the car is very nice, and you don't care if it really is a real one or not.
Chuck
And also, if a fully documented 100% for sure L88 is worth $100k, that doesnt mean an undocumented car is worth $50k!!!
MJ


There are several telltale signs that may eliminate it. All L88's had J56 brakes, F41 suspensions (7 leaf rear springs), no fan shroud, and no radio with a blockoff plate in the dash. As with any SHP big block, the HD (L88 designation) also had transitor ignition. Even if the TI has been removed, there would have to be 3 quarter inch holes in the front of the left inner skirt in a triangle pattern. The M22 "rock crusher" was also the only transmission available with the 67 & 68 L88's and the M22 wasn't available in any other Corvette in 68, so if the car has an M22, serial numbered to the car, this would be a dead on indication of originality, assuming someone hasn't messed with the numbers on it. The core support is also different, as is the radiator with the L88 being the only big block in 68 with a small block style aluminum radiator and expansion tank. If there are signs of an expansion tank having been on the rear of the right inner skirt and it was in fact a big block car when new, the it was an L88. All big block cars had a rear sway bar and signs of it having once been there are obvious on the rear suspension. A 6500 RPM redline on the tach would be necessary also, but the SHP engines would've had this also, so it in itself isn't definative, but lack of it would be, just as the transistor ignition situation. There are probably a few other details that aren't coming to mind right now. If they dawn on my I'll post em.
My 69 L88 was a local car when new and by the time I was in a full tilt search mode, I had the vin # in hand, so that made the authenticity part easy. Fortunately, the car still had the build sheet on the tank, although in very poor, but legible condition. The M22, radiator core support, radiator, TI and several other components were still present, but a local Corvette shop had installed a radio when the car was brand new. Incredibly, this guy still had the original block off plate in the attic and I was able to put it back in the car, but an antenna hole had to be plugged in the deck.
I did a lot of research on L88's after finally finding mine, in preparation of taking it to Bloomington in 88. If you look at the car and have any questions I'll be glad to help as best I can.
Good luck and I hope it turns out to be authentic and a real sleeper value wise.............mine was.
[Modified by Solidlifters, 1:42 AM 9/24/2002]
I know where there is a real 69 L-88 for $50K BUT the original motor, trans, gas tank have been replaced. the car has L-88 fender flares, it once had a roll bar and the tuxedo black is looong gone replaced with yellow, I think the minilite wheels are also gone (worth another $3K). The car was once owned/driven by one of the most famous Corvette racers of all time. Is it a "good buy" ?? It is also NOT in the US so add on a few $K for delivery from Europe. One other thing, if someone wants it for restoration it`s NOT for sale the guy will ONLY sell to someone (like me) who will race it as it`s been a racer since 1970.
...redvetracr
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I wish I had an extra $50+K and the room to buy it. I applaud the guy for not wanting it to become a garage queen. It would really make a good weekend warrior for me at Sears Point or Laguna Seca. Knowing that I was carrying the torch of a proud ex-racer, to continue driving it the way it was intended, would be a great honor!
I've probably got almost enough extra parts to get it on the road again.
Chuck


My list above is a pretty good starting point. Also there's the hood with the higher bulge (cold air from the back) that wasn't available on any other Corvette, but these have a way of getting switched around.
If I were going looking for a 68 L88 and was relatively unfamiliar with Corvettes, I think the transmission would be my first place to look. Of course it could've been changed, but if it's the original tranmissiion, it'll have a number stamped on it, probably on the side of the main case (although some are on top, out of view) and the numbers should be the same as the last 5 or so of the Vin # of the car. If you can find this number and it matches the car, it's the best definative indication I can think of, off the top of my head. Transmission numbers are harder to fake because thery're stamped in a rough cast area and most people don't mess with them anyway. So here goes, with all this ASSUMING the trans. number matches the vin # of the car: (some of this is not true with later transmissions, so we're referring to 68 stuff ONLY) If the transmission had a lower drain plug that was factory installed it's an M22. You need to look at another car, 69 or earlier, non automatic, and see the size of the yoke on the front of the driveshaft as it fits in the tailshaft of the transmission. In 68, the yoke on an M22 was much larger than the M20 or M21. Again, if it is the original transmission with the big output shaft/yoke, its and M22 and it was an L88. If it's not an M22 and the number matches the car it wasn't an L88 car........just that simple. These determinations should be easy for you to make with the car on a lift, or even on jackstands with a creeper. If you don't have another car to look at for yoke diameter where it goes in the tailshaft of the transmission I can come up with the sizes by the end of the day, but maybe somebody else'll beat me to it. This would be a very easy measurement to make with the transmission in the car with any type outside micrometer. Feel free to e mail me or post here if you have any questions when you get into it. I can also e mail you a phone number if you'd like me to talk with you by phone while you're looking at the car if you'll give me a little notice.
Last edited by Easy Mike; Nov 5, 2013 at 09:08 AM.


























