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the small ~2”? Rod that is inserted in the master brake cylinder, this rod just falls out
nothing holds it in
yes the rod pulls out but mine is 4.5 inches long as deep hole in MC piston. Butting the two together does not apply pressure to the MC piston. I can appreciate the Pedal input may not be enough to shift the HB valve to engage the power section being limited by the brake hydraulics and little movement in the pads, I guess the other extreme means too much pedal movement before brakes apply which would occur if the rod was too short. I need to experiment again on the road as difficult to tell on the workshop floor. Cheers
Hi Guys, sorry I've been away a while. I have sorted out my rough idle and fuel mixture, the engine is pretty sweet now. I also redid my brakes new rotors, pads and calipers. Now I'm still suffering with lack of stopping power.
Will the rod length if incorrect between the HB and MC cause reduced braking power? I also notice that when braking the steering wheel kinda snatches a little, definitely feel something on the wheel when applying brakes. I don't think that is correct as the accumulator should apply brake pressure and not take it from the steering.
Is there a test to check the hydroboost operation?
I have now shortened the rod by 1/4 inch and road tested, still no appreciable difference in braking, I then created the gap between MC and HB to 1/4 inch and some improvement and some other observations. When engine off and pressed brake pedal several times then start the engine while holding brake down I was expecting the pedal to rise, this did not happen until I turned the wheel then felt pressure pushing the pedal up? Also when driving the brakes were more effective when the steering wheel is being turned? Could this be the hose arrangement I have at the T connector behind the PS pump? Could the system still be bleeding out? Even after closing the gap between HB and MC it felt improved but only when turning the wheel. Any other suggestions? I'm reluctant to cut the rod another 1/4 inch at this time. Regards Greg
While I saved the provided link for future reference, I personally do not have the knowledge to answer your questions. You might consider contacting the following (provided in my link) to give you a good answer.
Thanks for the replies. I’m now getting somewhere as found the fluid level gone low probably due to the HB valve now operating with the shorter rod. I keep reading how the system can take 500 miles to expel all air and system settle in so let’s see how it goes. Thanks for all the help. Regards Greg
I have now shortened the rod by 1/4 inch and road tested, still no appreciable difference in braking, I then created the gap between MC and HB to 1/4 inch and some improvement and some other observations. When engine off and pressed brake pedal several times then start the engine while holding brake down I was expecting the pedal to rise, this did not happen until I turned the wheel then felt pressure pushing the pedal up? Also when driving the brakes were more effective when the steering wheel is being turned? Could this be the hose arrangement I have at the T connector behind the PS pump? Could the system still be bleeding out? Even after closing the gap between HB and MC it felt improved but only when turning the wheel. Any other suggestions? I'm reluctant to cut the rod another 1/4 inch at this time. Regards Greg
Bolded is what i was talking about
yes 500 miles city mostly stop and go and turns.
They make a PS pump can with 2 separate return ports. My T connector showed some restriction when using both heavy braking and turning , this will cause unwanted feedback in both the peddle and steering wheel. I run the duel return can, although I did fab the second input myself. you can buy them already done this way.