Trailing Arms !@#$%
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 478
Likes: 3
From: Huntsville AL
Trailing Arms !@#$%
You guys were correct, the front bolt in the trailing arms are a real PITA!!! After beating on them a while I finally went and bought me two new long blades for the sawzall. Now where do I cut the bolt at? As close to the spacers on each side or as close to the arms on each side? I would like some input from someone who has done this, like where exactly did you cut the bolts and were the cut bolts easy to remove once the arms were out? Thanks in advance.
YBNormal...drive a vette
YBNormal...drive a vette
Advanced
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 68
Likes: 0
From: Indialantic FL
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (Ybnormal)
:seeya If you have access to a compressor and an air chisel this is easier than cutting. use a dull pointed chisel to air hammer the bolt out. Once you've driven it as far as you can, use increasingly longer 1/4" bolts to slip in the hole and air hammer them some more. once you get the bolt moving,it goes pretty easy. :smash: If you have to cut, then my guess would be anywhere between the inside frame and the trailing arm bushing sleeve. When you get to the point of putting it all back together, I found that by grinding a groove in the pointed end of the trailing arm bolt and fastening an old guitar string to the bolt, I was able to pull the bolt thru the frame and arm with no problem. :yesnod: Hope this helps some :seeya
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 18,475
Likes: 3
From: Quincy IL
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (Ybnormal)
I don't think it makes any difference, as long as you don't damage the trailing arm or the chassis or frame "socket" the arm fits in to. I was one of the lucky ones who actually unbolted mine(after lots of penetrating lube,and allowing it about 2 days to soak,spray,soak, spray...). I did this job about 6 years ago, replaced it with poly bushings from VBP. i seem to remember having trouble getting the bolt back thru everything, like there wasn't room to hold the bolt, like i said it's been 6 yrs and i've forgotten some of the stuff one goes thru. good luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 2,198
Likes: 2
From: Eastern Connecticut
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (Gary79)
Cut it on the head side between the t/a and the frame pocket. That makes the pieces small enough to get out. Clean up everything and the new bolts should slide in easily if you have someone hold the t/a for you. Joe
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 5,768
Likes: 3
From: San Diego CA
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (Ybnormal)
When I did mine I cut down half way between the trailing arm and frame pocket - just in an effort to not damage either. In my case the bolt was carbon fused to the sleeve of the bushing and required that I cut on either side of the trailing arm to get it out - there was no way on earth that bolt was coming out of the trailing arm. - in the end, I replaced the trailing arms with offset arms as opposed to restoring the original arms.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,114
Likes: 3,905
From: Connecticut, USA
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (fauxrs)
The last ones I did were on my 69 and were rust welded so bad there was no way that any oil was going to separate them. the arms were rusted through so I just cut the arm in half to get it out of the way. I left about 6" of the arm from the bolt to the cut. I still had a hard time getting the 9" blade in there. I used a torch to burn away the rubber bushings leaving a gap to cut the bolt. I t took about 2 hours and several blades to get the right side out. I used a torch on the left and that was a PITA too. You get some popping because there's not much room to work.
Good luck and use plenty of never seize when you assemble the new stuff.
Gary
Good luck and use plenty of never seize when you assemble the new stuff.
Gary
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,943
Likes: 44
From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (gtr1999)
I cut mine out too.
I used the sawzall to cut as close to the arm as possible. I did this to prevent damage to the frame pocket. If things go wrong( which they wont if you are careful) a T-Arm is easier to replace than to have the frame fixed.
Stew
I used the sawzall to cut as close to the arm as possible. I did this to prevent damage to the frame pocket. If things go wrong( which they wont if you are careful) a T-Arm is easier to replace than to have the frame fixed.
Stew
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 922
Likes: 0
From: Maine
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (Stewart's74)
Be careful when removing the bolt (or pieces thereof). One of mine was rust-welded to the frame, ripped out pieces so the hole was no longer "complete" and I had to make a doubler and weld it in.
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (Ybnormal)
I had a totally rusted package. I first chisseled the shims out. After hours of prying I removed all shims. I then ground the head off the bolt with a dremel tool which allowed me to move the trailing arm towards the outside where I cut off anything that stuck out of the frame. I then pushed it back it towards the inside and once again cut off any bolt that I could. The trailing arm then came out. The remaining bit of bolt was welded to the bushing but I cut or burned everything out.
When I installed a new bushing and bolt I lubed it carefully and only use stainless shims. Every couple of years I take the trailing arms off just for inspection and to relube.
I use a pair of needle nose pliers to start the bolt and add sloted shims later after the bolt is all the way through.
Good luck, it is a miserable job.
When I installed a new bushing and bolt I lubed it carefully and only use stainless shims. Every couple of years I take the trailing arms off just for inspection and to relube.
I use a pair of needle nose pliers to start the bolt and add sloted shims later after the bolt is all the way through.
Good luck, it is a miserable job.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (norvalwilhelm)
As an afterthought. I bought a used plasma cutter for $100. It just uses air and 110 volts and will easily cut 1/4 inch plate with no flame or excess heat. It might make a great way to cut the bolts off. Don't know if you know someone who has one but they are becoming very popular in shops. Just and afterthought
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 2,062
Likes: 1,360
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (Ybnormal)
I did my TAs last fall. The left side bolt came out with little resistance.
However the right was fused with rust in the TA bushing.
I had a couple blades for the saw and promptly smoothed the teeth on both.
(Cheap blades). Barely scratched the bolt.
Since this was on a Sunday, I couldn't get any replacement blades.
Now viewing this as a challenge, I drilled a small 1/8" hole thru the shims and bolt. Then followed up with increasingly larger drill bits to the point that the bolt was cut off. Did this on both sides, and then removed the TA.
The remaining bolt pieces in the frame just tapped out.
However the right was fused with rust in the TA bushing.
I had a couple blades for the saw and promptly smoothed the teeth on both.
(Cheap blades). Barely scratched the bolt.
Since this was on a Sunday, I couldn't get any replacement blades.
Now viewing this as a challenge, I drilled a small 1/8" hole thru the shims and bolt. Then followed up with increasingly larger drill bits to the point that the bolt was cut off. Did this on both sides, and then removed the TA.
The remaining bolt pieces in the frame just tapped out.
Cruising
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Flower Mound Tx
Re: Trailing Arms !@#$% (Barry's70LT1)
I dont think it would matter where you cut it out, just remember which shims go where. Cut em out and replace em. I am going w/ VBP's trailing arms w/ poly bushings and 2" offset. i haven't put them in yet. so just be careful when cutting. Hope this helps
