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I've got everything unbolted, and I've lifted the left side of the body. The #1 mount came out OK, but #2 and #3 are being difficult. They are stuck to the body and it's tough to get leverage on them. Any hints? Also, how do you get the new mounts up into position?
Maybe some pictures not to close will let members see what you are dealing with. #3 mount has very limited room but both are workable depending on what we can see. Just saying!
RVZIO
Just changed the #2 mount on my 6t8, it was stuck to the body and with a easy tap with hammer and punch it was dislodged. As 81vettski mentioned is always helpful to us if you tell us what year you are working on. T
I used a dab of silicon to keep bushing and shims together then telescoping magnet to run it down the rail to get it into position with a screwdriver to get it over the ridge..i only had my body raised up and inch and a half, but it was pretty easy though.
I cannot speak on behalf of the solid mounts but i just completed all 8 on my 81 and went with the stock rubber. You should be able to push them out from inside the kick panel and inside the mount door respectively and retrieve them from underneath. Spray them with some pb blaster first but really shouldn't need to. Installation took some manipulation but not hard. Get some long needle nose pliers, straight and 90 degree, some long thin screwdrivers, the telescoping magnet and the toothbrush shaped wire brush to clean the area. i manipulated the shims on the rail and lowered the car in place. The whole job was a lot easier than i was expecting.
I'm working on a 77 using the Corvette Central rubber mounts. The rubber mounts have a steel sleeve inside and a raised lip that slides through the c channel. I've tried tapping with a mallet from inside, but no good. Prying from underneath is tough because you can't get a good angle. I'm off Friday, so I'll try a little PB Blaster and maybe a long chisel tip for the air chisel. Fingers crossed...
Hi t13b,
Really off the wall…. have you tried reaching the number 2 by coming at it from the front (just below the rocker channel upper surface and past the #1) with a looong, thin, 'tool'?
Regards,
Alan
if Alan's technique does not do it, attack it from underneath with the long needle nose, assuming you have it on jack stands and have the clearance. Best case is you separate the sleeve from the bushing. Worst is you pulled it out intact.
I spent a lot of time on them this weekend and got most of the work done. I used an air chisel and they popped right out. The only real issue after that was getting the driver's side #2 mount into position, the rubber lip on the mount didn't want to fit through the hole in the body. After a lot of struggling it went in and the rest went fine. The body is bolted down and the bumpers are tightened. Now I'm waiting for a new steering coupler and a new charcoal canister. (Note to self...if you put a wrench on the nut on top of the #1 mount, and hit the bolt on the bottom with an air gun, the wrench will pop out of your hand and go right through the canister!)
Good to hear. You are more energetic than me and I'm am right behind you. Have to order the new coupler. Takes a little manipulation but not impossible. Thanks to Alan 71, the torque value for the mounts are 45ft. lbs. Sorry but funny to hear about the canister. At first i was thinking this is something else i should change "while I'm at it"