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Hello, I'm new here and this is my first inquiry. Great forum BTW My '69 has the original cable driven tach and I don't believe the readings. At a nice idle, as seen as 700 RPM on a hand-held electronic unit, the dash tach reads under 500 RPM. While driving through the engine's speed range, the dash tach appears to read low (I didn't have the hand-held connected at that time) based on my ear expectations. Are the OEM dash notorious for not being accurate? Is there anything to be done about it, if mine is indeed reading low? Thanks for any help or insight.
OK, thanks guys. I'll stop obsessing, but still, are there any adjustments to be made on the dash tach? Meanwhile, I'll get a hand-held, drive around, and calibrate my ear.
OK, thanks guys. I'll stop obsessing, but still, are there any adjustments to be made on the dash tach? Meanwhile, I'll get a hand-held, drive around, and calibrate my ear.
I believe the mechanism is something like a spinning magnet. The faster it spins the more the needle moves. Not much to tinker with.
Mine is spot on according to a RPM meter I have that we used to use at work (no longer use it and they were going to throw it away so I asked if I could have it). We used this meter to setup some of our semiconductor equipment that needed precise RPM. How it works is you place a piece of reflective tape to the unit to measure and point the meter at it. Highly accurate.
My guess is if your gears, distributor and cable are worn you would see a difference and a bouncy needle. My speedometer was bouncing big time before I replaced the cable and now it's perfect.
Does your needle bounce?
Mine is spot on according to a RPM meter I have that we used to use at work (no longer use it and they were going to throw it away so I asked if I could have it). We used this meter to setup some of our semiconductor equipment that needed precise RPM. How it works is you place a piece of reflective tape to the unit to measure and point the meter at it. Highly accurate.
My guess is if your gears, distributor and cable are worn you would see a difference and a bouncy needle. My speedometer was bouncing big time before I replaced the cable and now it's perfect.
Does your needle bounce?
"My speedometer was bouncing big time before I replaced the cable and now it's perfect. " The needle on my 68 lags behind and bounces. I temporarily installed an electronic tach to help dx a high rpm problem on the car. Was thinking about replacing the cable- lubed it but not much difference. Did you replace the entire cable and exterior or just the actual cable? It's a PIA to get behind the dash if you can "snake" the cable in from the engine compartment side instead.
Most analog gauges have better accuracy at the upper end of the scale than they do at the low end of the scale. Seeing the tach off at idle really isn't of any concern...unless you use the car tach to set idle speed (not usually done). But, the upper end of the scale was usually within a 100 rpm (or so) of actual when the gauge was new.
It would be best to have a certified tach unit that you could monitor while driving at highway (or above) speeds so that you can assess your tach's accuracy after this many years of use.
You can have them rebuilt. The spring gets weak over time as well as the magnet. Mine was pretty accurate after rebuilding as long as I was normally driving. But when racing it lagged a good bit. Once on a chassis dyno we compared readings and it was about 600 RPM low at high speed. (6800 vs 7400)
Mine is spot on according to a RPM meter I have that we used to use at work (no longer use it and they were going to throw it away so I asked if I could have it). We used this meter to setup some of our semiconductor equipment that needed precise RPM. How it works is you place a piece of reflective tape to the unit to measure and point the meter at it. Highly accurate.
My guess is if your gears, distributor and cable are worn you would see a difference and a bouncy needle. My speedometer was bouncing big time before I replaced the cable and now it's perfect.
Does your needle bounce?
The needle isn't bouncy. I suspect the unit is in need of a rebuild. I like your strobe idea. A buddy of mine has one that I'm sure I can borrow. Thanks for the helpful reply!
As one that has calibrated these gauges for over thirty years, I can say that in a perfect world the gauge can function with about 95% accuracy... In a perfect world. As far as a tach is concerned, once you move off idle speed the needle is constantly changing so a variance if you don't have a calibration machine is pretty hard to detect unless you use a digital gauge to check it.
The tachometer is magnetically driven just like the speedometer and while GM allowed a 3-5 */- margin for error in the calibration chart, you'll find that if you have a new head it'll be pretty darn close if calibrated correctly.
So what happens... Several things can happen over the years to impede the function and the most common issue is the magnetism of the head and the adjoining parts including the speed cup jewel plate bushing and the jewel bushing in the first worm and magnet, and also the condition of the first worm bushing.
I've attached a picture below of a speedometer to help you understand what these items are. A tach won't have the second, third or forth worm gears (they drove the odometer). The set up is exactly the same though.
IMHO
-Willcox
Last edited by Willcox Corvette; Mar 15, 2017 at 12:58 PM.
"My speedometer was bouncing big time before I replaced the cable and now it's perfect. " The needle on my 68 lags behind and bounces. I temporarily installed an electronic tach to help dx a high rpm problem on the car. Was thinking about replacing the cable- lubed it but not much difference. Did you replace the entire cable and exterior or just the actual cable? It's a PIA to get behind the dash if you can "snake" the cable in from the engine compartment side instead.
No, I replaced the whole cable on both the tach and speedo. I had the dash apart and the engine/trans out at the time. I was also missing the bracket that gradually turns the speedo cable towards the trans. I took the speedo cable out of the outer housing and found right where the bracket should have been the cable strands were well past worn out. Big huge flat spot. I suspect this is the reason my speedo was bouncing so much. I just replaced the tach cable as a "while your in there" thing because of the PITA it would be to do it with the dash installed.
Well, finally the roads were dry and I took the C3 out for a drive. The dash tach actually reads within 100 RPMs of what it should based on speed (assume the speedo is correct!), gear ratios, tire size, etc. I think it just loses accuracy below about 1000-1500 RPM. I can live with that. Now, the hand tach unit I just bought (Actron CP7677 model) for tuning purposes doesn't read worth a hoot below 2500 RPM! I'm thinking a strobe might be the best method. I appreciated all of the replies.
Well, finally the roads were dry and I took the C3 out for a drive. The dash tach actually reads within 100 RPMs of what it should based on speed (assume the speedo is correct!), gear ratios, tire size, etc. I think it just loses accuracy below about 1000-1500 RPM. I can live with that. Now, the hand tach unit I just bought (Actron CP7677 model) for tuning purposes doesn't read worth a hoot below 2500 RPM! I'm thinking a strobe might be the best method. I appreciated all of the replies.
I have the Actron CP7677 and it works fine from idle and at least 3600 rpms. If yours is not working below 2500 rpm you should return it. I have about a 50-100 rpm difference at idle between the Actron and the mech tach. Not sure about cruise rpm but it seems correct based on calculations.
I received a no-hassle replacement Actron CP7677 unit the other today! I sent an inquiry into tech support and they responded quickly stating the unit was most likely faulty. All I did was send in a photo of the unit and the Amazon receipt. No questions asked. Thumbs up to Bosch Automotive Service Solutions.