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Wow. The ultimate oopsie in forgetting to install the steel modulator vacuum line before dropping the body...and installing too many items to retro-fit that line in the proper place.
It appears as if that vacuum line is reduced at one end, probably as a vacuum regulator? Can I cut the steel line about half way up and continue with a rubber hose to a vacuum source?
It's not the first or last dumb move I'll discover along this trek.
Wow. The ultimate oopsie in forgetting to install the steel modulator vacuum line before dropping the body...and installing too many items to retro-fit that line in the proper place.
It appears as if that vacuum line is reduced at one end, probably as a vacuum regulator? Can I cut the steel line about half way up and continue with a rubber hose to a vacuum source?
It's not the first or last dumb move I'll discover along this trek.
I guess that you could, it does connect to the intake manifold via a rubber hose and to the vac modulator via a rubber hose. It is possible however to install it with the engine and transmission in place. It is challenging, but possible.
I guess that you could, it does connect to the intake manifold via a rubber hose and to the vac modulator via a rubber hose. It is possible however to install it with the engine and transmission in place. It is challenging, but possible.
Good luck,
Bryan
Tnx, Bryan. A couple of us have been trying to maneuver the line into place today, but no success. Perhaps If I remove some exhaust components and the B+ wire bracket and a few other parts, we could make it work. I'm very tempted at this point to just cut the line just beyond the tranny bracket and continue on with a rubber hose.
The reduced diameter on the end of the line is just so it can insert into the vacuum fitting and then that connection is covered by a short vacuum hose. Not a regulator function to it. Just keeps the connection from flexing as much.
The reduced diameter on the end of the line is just so it can insert into the vacuum fitting and then that connection is covered by a short vacuum hose. Not a regulator function to it. Just keeps the connection from flexing as much.
Fishing it up from the bottom shouldn't be that hard. You may want to pull the distributor if you really need the room. Don't be afraid to bend it a little to help. If you are not a show car with everything original, just run a vac line and keep it away from the exhaust
The reduced diameter on the end of the line is just so it can insert into the vacuum fitting and then that connection is covered by a short vacuum hose. Not a regulator function to it. Just keeps the connection from flexing as much.
The reduced diameter proceeds a pinch restrictor, we often cut them off as they over time, fill/clog with carbon and present a delayed or no upshift condition. GM used the restrictor to inhibit strong vacuum signal from creating early upshifts. They later came out with an adjustable diaphragm in the modulator itself. Use the black stripe modulator for firmer/later upshifts and adjust according to your preference.
Interesting, never heard that before. I wouldn't have thought there was enough pressure differential on either side of the connection to make any difference. Did it actually work?
Interesting, never heard that before. I wouldn't have thought there was enough pressure differential on either side of the connection to make any difference. Did it actually work?
If you're asking me...yes it worked. We cut them off because clearing the blockage with a pin/small probe would result in them re-clogging later and then the transmission would come back under warranty, I'm not saying all trans. vacuum lines on all cars have the pinch restrictors or that yours does, I just know we encountered them on many GM products among others. Here's further evidence for you FWIW.
TO OP: If you can drop the tail of trans down and or remove dipstick tube, you should be able to fish that hard line back in there. I'd use fresh rubber hose not made in china on each end if it was mine. Long sections of rubber tend to collapse under vacuum after being subjected to oil fumes and over time, you may experience that using the method you proposed IMO.
Good luck ... Jim
Last edited by jimvette999; Mar 16, 2017 at 01:15 PM.
If you're asking me...yes it worked. We cut them off because clearing the blockage with a pin/small probe would result in them re-clogging later and then the transmission would come back under warranty, I'm not saying all trans. vacuum lines on all cars have the pinch restrictors or that yours does, I just know we encountered them on many GM products among others. Here's further evidence for you FWIW.
TO OP: If you can drop the tail of trans down and or remove dipstick tube, you should be able to fish that hard line back in there. I'd use fresh rubber hose not made in china on each end if it was mine. Long sections of rubber tend to collapse under vacuum after being subjected to oil fumes and over time, you may experience that using the method you proposed IMO.
Good luck ... Jim
Good info. Tnx! I've decided to cut the tube a few inches above the bell housing mounting bracket and continue from there with a vacuum hose to the intake. That should work without needing to get too crazy with removing installed items.
Where is the best vacuum source for the modulator, manifold or carburetor base; or is there any difference?
I have a mild cam on my 72 stingray so my vacuum readings are a little low. Brake booster issues(minor) but within tolerance. Was just wondering if one source is better than another.