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1973 vette will not start

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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 02:11 PM
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Default 1973 vette will not start

So, everything works except starting, I checked the voltage on then small connector on the starter that is closest to the wheel and got 12vdc with the key turned to on. Nothing on the other small connector in this configuration, pressed the brake and turned the key to start and the 12vdc went away but never showed up on the other small connector. I then run a wire from the battery positive terminal to the outer small connector on the starter and heard clicks in the hood. When I touched the other small starter connector, I get sparks with the brake pedal pressed and the key in start position and without. I have already replaced the starter and solenoid and the start switch that's located under the steering column. Beside the alarm and neutral switch, does anyone have any ideas? I need some help here. Thanks in advance
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 02:25 PM
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The purple wire connects to the small solenoid terminal closest to the engine.
The yellow connects to the terminal closest to the wheel.
Is this the way you have it wired up?

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...ZTM0ZDc1MWM5Ng
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 03:27 PM
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Yes, I just checked to verify and it's that way. There is a relay on the passenger side firewall in the hood, it have start mark on it. Does this car have another start relay? Thanks for replying
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 04:46 PM
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It this a auto or stick, if it's a stick you need to press the clutch to the floor
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 05:44 PM
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This box is for the seat belt starter interlock.
You might have a problem with that relay but check for power going into and out of the NSS first.



As asked before, stick or auto?

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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 06:01 PM
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Hi peterbuilt,
That Seatbelt Starter Interlock relay isn't used on a 73'. That started with the 74'. The seat belts weren't tied into the starting of the car in 73'.
Tooch

Last edited by Tooch1; Mar 23, 2017 at 06:05 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 06:06 PM
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No one should ever pay attention to any of my posts.

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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by sgeorge2831
Yes, I just checked to verify and it's that way. There is a relay on the passenger side firewall in the hood, it have start mark on it. Does this car have another start relay? Thanks for replying
Not sure what that relay would be with "start" marked on it? Could you take a picture of it?

Hey peterbuilt,
I'm guilty of that myself sometime. Maybe after reading his later post above, you thought that's what he was talking about?
Tooch

Last edited by Tooch1; Mar 23, 2017 at 06:19 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 08:02 PM
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Actu That's exactly what I am talking about and I'm pretty sure my car is a 73. Would this cause the car not to start? I tried the stores today but couldn't find it. Something was shaking inside of it when I took it off, Tipton ended up being a piece of dried rotted plastic.
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 08:05 PM
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Please don't take this the wrong way but, you say you are pretty sure the car is a 73?? These weren't used on a 73. Does your car have chrome rear bumpers ?
Tooch

Last edited by Tooch1; Mar 23, 2017 at 08:06 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 08:21 PM
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Sorry about that, I meant 1974. Thanks for the replies from everyone
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sgeorge2831
Sorry about that, I meant 1974. Thanks for the replies from everyone
At least we got that straightened out
I believe there might be a way to bypass those, but I'm not familiar with the process. Maybe someone will chime in with help in doing that. At least you'll be able to see if you can get the car started. Until you find a replacement.
Regards,
Tooch

Last edited by Tooch1; Mar 23, 2017 at 08:40 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Tooch1
At least we got that straightened out
Tooch
Tooch1,
You made me laugh! And that's a good thing.

Sgeorge,
On your first post, you said that you had 12 volts on the yellow at the starter with the key ON. That's good and correct.
You need 12 volts at the purple at the starter with the key in START.
Check there first.

It's rare that the SB interlock is bad but here's how to bypass it if all else fails.



Regards, Pete.
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Old Mar 23, 2017 | 11:17 PM
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I will check this at first light and post the results. This has been very frustrating and I can't express my gratitude enough. The help is much appreciated. My C6 was awesome but I love the old stuff. Thanks again
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 03:52 PM
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No joy with jumping the relay
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 03:53 PM
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Gonna check the nss and see if it's bad.
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Old Mar 24, 2017 | 09:28 PM
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I went through something similar to this, turned out to be a bad ground. Is your battery ground clean and making good contact with the frame? Are you grounded to the transmission? Has all the paint been removed? How is the engine block to frame ground, is everything clean and tight? Is your frame to chassis ground good? Also, are the star washers between the ground wire and chassis? For me, i stripped the paint off of my Lakewood bellhousing, and off the block were were the grounds attach and it turned over instantly. I'm not sure if this helps, but thought I would throw it out there.

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Old Mar 25, 2017 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by sgeorge2831
No joy with jumping the relay
You still haven't answered the question... manual or automatic?

Manual has a clutch interlock (on the pedal) and automatic has a neutral safety switch (in the console).

Good luck... GUSTO
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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 08:55 AM
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The car is automatic, thanks
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Old Mar 26, 2017 | 09:38 AM
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To see if the issue is the neutral safety switch you can try several simple things. First try moving the transmission selector to neutral and try to start the engine. The switch works at two points with different contacts, in park and in neutral. If it starts then you will know it is the NSS. If this doesn't work then try to shift the transmission from park to drive several times, quickly. This will sometimes allow a switch that is on its way out to "shift" so the contact is made and allow the car to start, again showing a bad nss. Lots of luck, Russ
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