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Old Apr 1, 2017 | 12:33 PM
  #21  
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Marlon
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From: Fairfax Station VA
Default Heads?

Originally Posted by Alan 71
Hi Marlon,
Interesting old LT-! in the photos.
Looks like it's been well used, but still lot's of nice old original parts on it!
You might find that when you have new seat covers and front carpet the door trim panels will look out of place… same maybe a pair of those are in your future.
You mention the AIR pump… I don't see ANY of the AIR parts. ??
Do you know about the Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM), and Chassis Service Manual? If you don't have them they'd be a help to you with this car. Certainly worth the $$.
Al Knock is a good source of interior parts and sometimes has some interesting sale prices.
Again, INTERESTING car!
Regards,
Alan

What are the heads presently on the engine?
not sure yet what heads are on it...will be able to figure out something when I pull off the valve covers. Hopefully they are giving me at least 9:1 compression! It fires up the instant you turn the key (when warm). But the idle exhaust pressure seems low on the hand on the passenger side at the exhaust tips. Maybe the heat riser is sticking???
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Old May 21, 2017 | 08:40 PM
  #22  
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Marlon
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Default Wrok progressing on the 71 LT-1!!

Heads are GM 3973487. Here's a photo of the engine now that it's been cleaned up a little, carb rebuilt by Chris at Chris's Carb Shop in Dayton Ohio.
Seats redone by Al Knoch at Carlisle Swap meet last month or so. Seat rails being prepped at local powder coater. Front carpet installed this weekend, start the back soon. Likely replace the parking brake housing too. Replace the shift boot and the rubber shift boot too. The car is Real had to get into Reverse - I read in the NCRS book that at the shift linkage had an update at one point due to sticking or roughness - wonder if mine has ever been updated!!!

Dewitts radiator (has elliptical neck tho), Quanta fuel lines, rebuilt ORIGINAL alternator(!), original fan& clutch, original WP, will deep original seat belts.

Will redo exhaust manifolds when i replace the exhaust system.

BTW: it was a real PITA to swap out the manifold water nipple fitting!!! I had to heat it - spray on PB blaster - Heat - spray PB...repeat about 8 times. Then used my big ratchet wrench with a deep socket and 'SLOWLY' turned it. Came right out!
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Last edited by Marlon; May 21, 2017 at 08:47 PM.
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Old May 22, 2017 | 10:45 PM
  #23  
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EarlyC34me
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From: ICE boneyard, Pa
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Originally Posted by Marlon
Heads are GM 3973487. Here's a photo of the engine now that it's been cleaned up a little, carb rebuilt by Chris at Chris's Carb Shop in Dayton Ohio.
Seats redone by Al Knoch at Carlisle Swap meet last month or so. Seat rails being prepped at local powder coater. Front carpet installed this weekend, start the back soon. Likely replace the parking brake housing too. Replace the shift boot and the rubber shift boot too. The car is Real had to get into Reverse - I read in the NCRS book that at the shift linkage had an update at one point due to sticking or roughness - wonder if mine has ever been updated!!!

Dewitts radiator (has elliptical neck tho), Quanta fuel lines, rebuilt ORIGINAL alternator(!), original fan& clutch, original WP, will deep original seat belts.



Will redo exhaust manifolds when i replace the exhaust system.

BTW: it was a real PITA to swap out the manifold water nipple fitting!!! I had to heat it - spray on PB blaster - Heat - spray PB...repeat about 8 times. Then used my big ratchet wrench with a deep socket and 'SLOWLY' turned it. Came right out!
Great progress.
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Old Jul 3, 2017 | 09:45 AM
  #24  
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Marlon
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From: Fairfax Station VA
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A few photos of in progress work...exhaust manifolds will come of during exhaust replacement soon. Ignition wires will be replaced when manifolds are off. Reconnected a couple F/O cables when I replaced the two shifter boots. You can barely see on the shift housing where the shifter is hitting the housing - this is causing it not to shift into third gear. I t shifts into first just fine. I need to adjust the shifter linkage somehow.

The carb was rebuilt by Chris's Carb Shop in Dayton, Ohio - the starts and runs beautifully.

I have the wheels off now at the powder coater. Wet sanding the body panels one at a time...looks really good, even though in some areas the paint is really bad - original paint btw. All panels have the original bonding seams...!

Passenger door panel not so bad but drivers side is terrible. At some Point i need to replace the wether stripping. Want to pull the doors, replace hinge pins, rebuild window rollers, new door locks, door handles and maybe door panels. I got the new ignition cylinder and door lock kit from Zip. Will pull ignition cylinder soon - it so worn out that you can start and run the car without the key!!!

Oh: one addendum: the OE water pump from a well-known supplier, suspect it does not seem to work very well. The car wants to drive a 215 deg and goes up towards red line if you run it hard. Bled coolant system, didn't really help. Drilled two little 1/8" holes in the 180 degree stat edges, didn't help. I pulled the pump, replaced it with a new hi-flow replacement from NAPA, installed a 160 degree stat, bled it and now it idles after 45 minutes - right at 180-minus. Before when i let it idle for 45 minutes it would sit at 210 or so. So: hoping that when I drive it, won't go above 200 or so. We'll see. Original wheels are at powder coater right now...
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Last edited by Marlon; Jul 3, 2017 at 09:52 AM.
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