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Has anyone done a rack & pinion conversion to the manual R&P? I'm considering changing my 68 convert BB to R&P. The steering is completely rebuilt (steering gear, idler arm, TR ends, etc) with manual steering and except for hard steering when parallel parking is OK. But- there is almost zero clearance between my long tube headers and the steering box. The PO dented one of the exhaust runners to make them fit, but I'm concerned the headers are cooking the grease in the steering box and sooner or later the box will fail. So- I'm considering the change but do not know if I should go with manual or power assist. Anyone have the manual version on their car? RA
This same question was asked so time ago. 1 of the replies stated that they use the same rack for both P/S and manual. If that is true one could install as a manual unit and later add the P/S if so desired. You could check with Flaming River and Speed Direct to see if it's true or not. T
This same question was asked so time ago. 1 of the replies stated that they use the same rack for both P/S and manual. If that is true one could install as a manual unit and later add the P/S if so desired. You could check with Flaming River and Speed Direct to see if it's true or not. T
manual rack & pinion upgrades have no hydraulics to drive them, so they are not the same.
I converted my big block coupe to a Flaming River manual rack. In my opinion, you get a better road feel. BUT...It does take arm strength. The trick is to turn the wheel while the car is moving. I did a power rack & pinion on a 70 Mustang a few years ago. It handled very well, but tended to oversteer because of the power steering. That's why I went to the manual this time.
I am thinking about installing a motorized power steering unit. (I'm an old fart, getting older and weaker by the day) Many cars use them today, and you can buy a unit from a junkyard for a couple of hundred bucks. Depending upon how good an engineer and welder you are, it could be a low buck upgrade.
Its backwards. A Hydraulic system driven off the Engine makes its least Flow when idling when You need the power assist the most in a parking lot. Once on the Highway there is enough RPM to make more flow and You don't need any assist. I just bought my wife a Cadillac ATS and it has Electric. I would think that we will see an Electric conversion for our cars some time soon.
With the Steeroids Rack there has been more than one unit used. If You have a power unit and want to use in manually then just use a jumper hose between the two ports. Then convert back to power when You want. If You order a manual version it may be internally modified to bypass and can not be switched to power.
There's a lot of kits that use the old Saturn piece. I went with a the newer one off a Nissan Cube. Supposedly the torque sensing is much better,
Was able to find a u-joint coupler for the application- HOWEVER the steering column will take a LOT of work. I don't think a tilt/tel column would work. Had to cut the Vette shaft and weld the Nissan piece to it.
There's NO room in he dash- where most of the motors are placed. AND going under the hood will only work if you're running a Hydraulic clutch or an Auto trans.
Here's the motor off the cube- also needed is the module not shown
R&P steering conversion question
