I am preparing my engine bay for painting

1. What is the best degreaser to use on the firewall? Will simple
green or 409 work or can I use something stronger without
hurting the fiberglass, like mineral spirits?

2. What do people do with the wire tabs when painting. Tape?
or remove and then reattach after painting?





3. What about these guys? I don't think I will be using them in the future




4. What paint should I use?

Thanks

 

Okay, well the wire tabs I removed and riveted them back after paint. The small pointy parts were used to hold the tunnel insulation. Since the tunnel was not painted it's your choice. Lacquer thinner works well to clean these areas as well as the firewall. Hot rod black in a matte finish works well to duplicate the original look. Krylon #1613 semi flat black will work as well in a rattle can. This job takes a little time to get a nice look and very rewarding when completed.
RVZIO

 

Hi gw,
(1) Cleaning/Paint prep. I think that once the dirt and grease is removed from the engine compartment, the use of lacquer thinner to prepare the surface for painting is a good option. The original surfaces of the fiberglass had a particular fiberglass 'pattern' that is lost if the fiberglass is sanded. Some people don't 'sand' at all.

(2) Hose/harness/wire retainers. The original 'tabs' you show are ALL important to have in place on the firewall, aprons, and underbody, since they're used to support the wiring harnesses and vacuum hoses that are routed in the engine compartment. Each one is necessary.
If they're very deformed, or the rubber 'dip' that many of them had on their surface is failing, they MAY need to be replaced. Sometimes though, the clip can be straightened into it's original shape while still in place.

(3) Clip. Unless you use an aftermarket heat shield material, I think it would be wise to use the tunnel insulator that the clips with prongs you show hold in place. The tunnel insulator is a vital part of controlling interior heat.

(4) Paint. The engine compartment original was painted using semi-flat black paint. The 'black-out' was performed quickly and sparingly when it was done at St.Louis, but most people do a more thorough job now. There are several paints that are mentioned by restorers…Krylon #1613 Semi-Flat Black, paints made by SEM, and John Deere Blitz Black.

As much as the work you do in the engine compartment is is for appearance's sake, it's also done to make it easier to maintain when your finished and driving the car again. So keep that in mind as you proceed.

 

RVZIO,

Those pictured you uploaded are awesome. What a difference. I would love to do all of this to my wife's 71. It has been in storage for a 9 years and I'm just trying to get it in working order right now, but after seeing your pictures, it makes me want to do alot more.

Nice job!!!

 

I asked my corvette body guy and he suggested acetone. Once i the grease was removed, I used acetone on all the fiberglass surfaces to clean it for paint OR to apply the DEI heat shield (also called Boommat) adhesive to floor & tunnel.

On the tunnel and firewall I kept the pointed tabs and used them when I applied the DEI heat shield.

I didn't have a riveter so I left the hose & wire clamps in place.






DEI Heat shield on 1974 corvette tunnel



Heat shield and Krylon sem-flat black on fire wall.

 

Thank you c3c4c6 for the nice comments. It's one of those things when you sat to yourself "well while I'm at it" and away you go.I first thought clean it up shoot it black and then I saw what others did and like you I liked it. Oh well, your choice.
Good luck
RVZIO

 

What about seam sealer? The seam sealer used by the wipers and the windshield is all cracked. Any specific suggestions on what to use there?

Thanks
Glenn in San Diego

 

Hi Glenn,
Some folks like using black roofing cement, the type found in 'home' supply stores.
There's generally lots of old cracked sealer in the wiper bay that should be cleaned up before applying the new sealer.
Regards,
Alan

 

Following along as I am at this exact point myself. RVZIO, is that rattle can?? Clear Coat?? My frame is out getting epoxy matte black, so I was thinking gloss in the engine compartment to contrast from the frame. Oh the decisions.... LOL

 

Rajin, I used PPg Epoxy primer and then used Hot Rod Black Matte finish. In the rattle cans you can use Krylon #1613 Semi Flat Black. You need to get it from an industrial type place to get the original. I purchased mine from Travers.com. The other nice thing is it is very close to the hot rod black for touching up when needed.
RVZIO