quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I was wondering if you are keeping a tab on the $ of the project. I understand if you don't want to advertise that, but I know I would be curious to know how a budget 383 turns out. The cost of purchased parts, plus machine shop cost and misc. cost, like renting a cherry picker.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

first of all, thank you all for your compliments, encouragement and advise...
and thanx for that tip on decking too

as far as keeping tab on the $ amount goes...ive got a rough idea...
let me say tho...altho i definetly AM on a budget this is no budget engine...
thats why its gonna take a while...
i have learned that to do this right...you just cant scrimp...
there is simply too much to risk in time, work and $ invested...
(i only want to do this once...i do not want to have to "go back in")
EVERYTHING in this engine will be new...the only parts that i will reuse will be external stuff...

heres a list so far...

ENGINE KIT...$600. http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ctModelId=1674
(i think im going with the 266 DUR .444 LIFT cam) suggestions?

SCAT RODS...$250.

MACHINE WORK ON BLOCK (includes balancing) $400.

PERFORMER INTAKE...$110.

CARB REBUILD...$100.

HARMONIC BALANCER...$100. http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ProductId=1460

FLYWHEEL...$100. http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...?ProductId=716

CLUTCH...$260. http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ProductId=1038

HEADERS...$255. http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...19&prmenbr=361

EXHAUST WORK...$100.?

MISC...$200.

SHIPPING...$100. ?

HEADS...$400. ?

i borrowed a cherry picker and an engine stand (i have a lot of stock car friends)

IF IM NOT MISTAKEN THATS AROUND $3000...
its gonna be a long haul but i think it will be worth it...
in the meantime i am going to do a complete engine bay detail...
install heat sheilds up around the top of the trany...
and do a whole lot of other things that ive been meaning to do in and around the car...
i figure it wont be back on the road til around new years day...
ya...i sure do miss her...but it is going to be really worth it when i pull her out the bay door
if any of you see any flaws or mistakes that im making please let me know.
thanx...

 

What about the heads?......they are prob the most expensive part....i got lured into spending far too much on my 383.....it is a beautiful piece of work that is built to over the top race car standard....and you know,no one will believe what is in it......i dont aim to pull it down just to prove a point.....john ;)

 

I think that I would skip the performer and go with a stealth or rpm. I'm also not sure about the cost difference for an internally balanced over an extenally balanced. I didn't hear which you went with or what your intended use was.

 

heres my needs and wants...
i have NO intention on ever racing this car... it will be a daily "drive it to work" car, which i occationaly take on long day or weekend trips but i want "more than stock" power and tourqe...
i DO NOT want an engine that is "street and traffic unfriendly" or that will give me terrible gas milage...
heck! i even want to drive it to Carlisle again next year!
the cam i will be using is pretty mild so im not sure about the stealth but i think the RPM may be a little more "stout" than i need or want...

knowing this...whataya think now?

 

SIGNGUY, great! It is good to see someone sticking to a budget. Are you going to dyno the engine when you are done? You should get a decent HP/$ ratio. :yesnod:

If you are at a newsstand, look for an "special" issue of Hot Rod magazine called "Engines". It has some great articles. Here is a comparsion of different Edelbrock intakes and Comp Cams. They also have an article on improving GM 383 crate motor.

NOTE: The engine is a 302 from a "different" OEM besides GM.







[Modified by 69stingray, 7:23 PM 9/26/2002]

 

we dont plan on getting too exotic with the heads...we're not sure yet what we're going to do with them...
my machinist (a friend of mine) has insured me that he can make the heads into what i will be very happy with for my application and intended use for a very reasonable cost...
remember...i am not going to race this engine...
it is to remain street and traffic friendly and not TOO radical...
it is to be just a nice, beefy little street engine with some real ***** when leaving that green light around town...

stingray69...as far as dyno testing goes...i plan on putting her on the dyno at Carlisle next year... :)

 

Considering your cam selection and assuming you are using the stock torque converter I would suggest staying with the Performer. The RPM is a great intake, but is for 1500-6500 RPM. With your cam, heads, and driving plans I doubt you'll visit even 5500 RPMs much. You'll get more low-end grunt with the Performer.
As for heads, assuming you are going with some Chevy Iron heads, have them blend the bowls and maybe install bigger valves (2.02/1.60) with a good valve job, and definitely new springs, and you are set. I have a set of 882 castings on my '74 with a Comp 268H, pretty similar to what you have described but in a 350 with 4-speed. It will roast the tires on command and scare the heck out of ya. I think with the 383 you will be more than pleased.
Jeff

 

no_radio - 79 L-82's like mine came with 2.02/1.6. 383's make so much more TQ than a 355 that i wouldn't choke it with a little performer. For that matter if your on a budget. The stock L-82 aluminum manifold makes the same amount of power on rear wheel dyno tests as the Performer. It's very well designed all it needs is the cross over blocked off to eliminate excess carb heat.

I did the dyno tests with a Edelbrock 600 cfm carb, ported 882 heads, Crane 272 power max cam, and 1 5/8th headman headers. At first I thought that the 600 cfm carb was causing the dyno graph to nose dive at 5200 rpm. So I went down and bought the Edel 750 cfm and even after all kinds of jetting changes it dynoed within a few hp. So I got to talking with some friends and one of them had a Weiand Excelerator single plane intake. That's all that motor needed. The power across the board was higher and it ran well clear out to 6500. :)

So those little manifold runners really choke a motor. Just use the L-82 aluminum intake manifold with block off gaskets. :cheers:

 

gkull what cam are you using? I have very little bottom end torque, I should have listened to my machine shop and mechanic and put in a different cam. :rolleyes: Lots of top end and pulls smoothly but a little embarrasing under 3500 rpm.


[Modified by gdh, 4:50 PM 9/27/2002]


[Modified by gdh, 4:52 PM 9/27/2002]

 

GDH Cams have two rules of thumb: You can run higher compression and still run fine on pump gas if your cam has enough durration to bleed of some of the cylinder pressure. The higher the cfm flow of your heads the less cam duration and lift is required to attain the same power level.

I has a custom Crane solid roller designed by me. 240/248 @.050 .635/.644 112 lsa

 

its wierd but i think that a lot of people do not understand what the other persons needs and desires are...
for example...its kinda like the guy with the great big 4x4 that goes in the woods all the time tellin the guy with a 4 door sedan who never leaves the city that he needs a great big 4x4 too...
theres nuthin wrong with great big 4x4's...dont get me wrong...but its crazy to think that the city guy needs or wants one...know what i mean?

it seems like when you do something like build a motor you run into that alot...
i have had people suggesting to me that i need nitros...i know its cool but hel l...i dont even know how to spell it! LOL
same has gone with almost every componant that ive discussed with different motorheads...
like always, i try to listen to everybody and weigh the suggestions and come to a conclusion that best suits my needs...

thanx for letting me vent :) after a conversation i had today, i needed that...im sure most of you know what i mean...

ON TO THE HEADS...
i stopped into the machine shop on my way to work this morning to "visit" my block :) we discussed heads and he showed me a set of heavy cast 202's that he had built for a guy and the guy didnt pick them up due to lack of funds...
they were ready to bolt on and had stainless steel valves and have been ported and polished...
he told me he would sell them to me for $450 AND give me $150 for my heads! well...of course i bit and they are mine...
i think that with the 266DUR .444 lift cam and the performer intake i will be where i want to be...what do ya"ll think?

 

Did you figure out what compression your going to have with your new heads? I guess I just asking if you got smaller chambers like 64 cc

 

gkull - that is very similar to the cam that my mechanic suggested, he was quite surprised that I didn't have a solid roller. Thanks for your reply.

 

You should be more then happy!


[Modified by 69stingray, 8:36 PM 9/27/2002]

 

Sign, I think you doing just fine with your engine there....just fine....
I"d like to see a roller cam setup there, but for the money, well maybe stick with what you getting....really....there is a question of aftermarket street reliablility in my mind with aftermarket roller lifters anyway....

to block heat riser crossover passages, the best longest lasting, easiest thing to do is.....beleive it or not.....Plaster of Paris...makes a mess but you could use a mason's sock....kinda like a cake decorating cloth tube and squeeze the plaster in there, smooth it off, let it solidify, and bolt it into place....I"v done it before.....here in Florida you don't need any heatriser xover beleive me....use an electric choke on the carb....matter of fact, if you can, get an AFB type carb, better carb all the way around for street use....

GENE

 

"to block heat riser crossover passages, the best longest lasting, easiest thing to do is"

ok...whatawe talkin about here...
ooops...i feel like an idiot again :)