'73 Heater Box Teardown

A 1/4" socket will fit all attaching screws.

Nasty.
The Box's top Flap Actuating Arm Screws must be removed for the Core Holder/Flap assembly to be removed.

Assembly can then be lifted out.


Most screws here are of Sheet Metal type, but a few are Machine Threaded. Of these noted are the Top Flap Actuating mechanism....

.... and the Core's Attachment Band Screws.


In order for the flap to be removed, it's Retaining Plate must be removed.

This step gave me concern, for if I were to break a plate's retaining tab, I felt trying to find a new one would be impossible (i.e. I'd be F#%*@!).

I used AeroKroil, a penetrant, around the tab and CAREFULLY pried the tabs out of their holes.

And this is the angle-of-the-dangle to remove the Flap from it's Housing.

Off to the radiator shop and see if it's repairable.


I do have a question:

Which is the Inlet and which is the Outlet, as one's larger than the other.
Thanks.
Steve
And I've forgotten, but think the bigger one is the inlet, but somebody will be along, I'm sure. I don't have books for this, and have to research myself.
Good luck with reassembly!!
Little: COLD
Thanks VET!


Steve
After working in the USAF for so long, they MAKE SURE you have the correct tech data to do the job, I just never had to remember anything. It always had to have it right in front of me. (that doesn't mean I didn't remember anything, I just had to have the book right there) So now......well you know hahaha

A 1/4" socket will fit all attaching screws.

Nasty.
The Box's top Flap Actuating Arm Screws must be removed for the Core Holder/Flap assembly to be removed.

Assembly can then be lifted out.


Most screws here are of Sheet Metal type, but a few are Machine Threaded. Of these noted are the Top Flap Actuating mechanism....

.... and the Core's Attachment Band Screws.


In order for the flap to be removed, it's Retaining Plate must be removed.

This step gave me concern, for if I were to break a plate's retaining tab, I felt trying to find a new one would be impossible (i.e. I'd be F#%*@!).

I used AeroKroil, a penetrant, around the tab and CAREFULLY pried the tabs out of their holes.

And this is the angle-of-the-dangle to remove the Flap from it's Housing.

Off to the radiator shop and see if it's repairable.


I do have a question:

Which is the Inlet and which is the Outlet, as one's larger than the other.
Thanks.
Steve

Steve

Steve
“Knowledge is of two kinds. We know a subject ourselves, or we know where we can find information on it.”
― Samuel Johnson
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I wanted to keep things OEM. I wanted to find a local radiator shop for the possible repair, but I CANNOT find a trustworthy radiator shop in this town! San Diego!

I therefore decided to replace the OEM core. This is what I got.

. ....... I'm returning it.And I swear someone here said I could have fitment problems.

Anyone know of a trustworthy shop that repairs these? I believe DeWitts only manufactures, not repairs.
Thanks so much.
Steve
You may call them and ask if the one they sell measures up to the original.
As for repair, seems harder to find the craftsman out there to do a lot of things today.
You may call them and ask if the one they sell measures up to the original.
As for repair, seems harder to find the craftsman out there to do a lot of things today.
Even the Zip one is an import unfortunately.


OEM. HARRISON, A73 stamped. I really wanna fix & keep it caski.

Steve
So, are those three holes supposed to have screws to secure the heater box or studs that go into the engine compartment? If I need screws, what size do I need?
So, are those three holes supposed to have screws to secure the heater box or studs that go into the engine compartment? If I need screws, what size do I need?

.24" wide
1.17" long
7/16" head
At least that's what was holding the box in on my '73.
Good luck.
Steve
On Nebraska Ave between Fowler and Busch for the Tampa people....
Paragon Number: 5770
GM Part Number: 3015145
Years: 1968 - 1977
Stick With Us Price: $71.10
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...ent-style.aspx
Good luck... GUSTO
I just jacked up my car and I see that the AC box in the engine bay seems like it is blocking my access to the back of the heater core. Do I need to pull this black box out? If so, and being that I have no intention of ever reinstalling the AC, does it make sense to just leave the box off and install the AC delete? My car is a driver and doesn't have matching numbers.
I fully understand your plight.




















