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'73 Heater Box Teardown

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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 01:20 PM
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Default '73 Heater Box Teardown

FYI on my experience on this terrible chore.



A 1/4" socket will fit all attaching screws.



Nasty.



The Box's top Flap Actuating Arm Screws must be removed for the Core Holder/Flap assembly to be removed.



Assembly can then be lifted out.





Most screws here are of Sheet Metal type, but a few are Machine Threaded. Of these noted are the Top Flap Actuating mechanism....



.... and the Core's Attachment Band Screws.





In order for the flap to be removed, it's Retaining Plate must be removed.



This step gave me concern, for if I were to break a plate's retaining tab, I felt trying to find a new one would be impossible (i.e. I'd be F#%*@!).



I used AeroKroil, a penetrant, around the tab and CAREFULLY pried the tabs out of their holes.



And this is the angle-of-the-dangle to remove the Flap from it's Housing.



Off to the radiator shop and see if it's repairable.





I do have a question:



Which is the Inlet and which is the Outlet, as one's larger than the other.

Thanks.
Steve
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 01:29 PM
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I bought a new one from Amazon, it's a GM part and not that expensive.


And I've forgotten, but think the bigger one is the inlet, but somebody will be along, I'm sure. I don't have books for this, and have to research myself.


Good luck with reassembly!!
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by USAFVeteran
I bought a new one from Amazon, it's a GM part and not that expensive.


And I've forgotten, but think the bigger one is the inlet, but somebody will be along, I'm sure. I don't have books for this, and have to research myself.


Good luck with reassembly!!
Big: HOT
Little: COLD

Thanks VET!


Steve
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
Big: HOT
Little: COLD

Thanks VET!


Steve

After working in the USAF for so long, they MAKE SURE you have the correct tech data to do the job, I just never had to remember anything. It always had to have it right in front of me. (that doesn't mean I didn't remember anything, I just had to have the book right there) So now......well you know hahaha
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
FYI on my experience on this terrible chore.



A 1/4" socket will fit all attaching screws.



Nasty.




The Box's top Flap Actuating Arm Screws must be removed for the Core Holder/Flap assembly to be removed.



Assembly can then be lifted out.





Most screws here are of Sheet Metal type, but a few are Machine Threaded. Of these noted are the Top Flap Actuating mechanism....



.... and the Core's Attachment Band Screws.





In order for the flap to be removed, it's Retaining Plate must be removed.



This step gave me concern, for if I were to break a plate's retaining tab, I felt trying to find a new one would be impossible (i.e. I'd be F#%*@!).



I used AeroKroil, a penetrant, around the tab and CAREFULLY pried the tabs out of their holes.



And this is the angle-of-the-dangle to remove the Flap from it's Housing.



Off to the radiator shop and see if it's repairable.





I do have a question:



Which is the Inlet and which is the Outlet, as one's larger than the other.

Thanks.
Steve
Thanks for tutorial. I'll use it when I do mine. Nice job.
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by USAFVeteran
After working in the USAF for so long, they MAKE SURE you have the correct tech data to do the job, I just never had to remember anything. It always had to have it right in front of me. (that doesn't mean I didn't remember anything, I just had to have the book right there) So now......well you know hahaha


Steve
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Old Apr 14, 2017 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by caskiguy
Thanks for tutorial. I'll use it when I do mine. Nice job.
You, and everyone else here, are welcome. I just couldn't find anything on the details, so, wasn't sure what I was getting into.

Steve


“Knowledge is of two kinds. We know a subject ourselves, or we know where we can find information on it.”
― Samuel Johnson
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Old Apr 15, 2017 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Cavu2u
Big: HOT
Little: COLD

Thanks VET!


Steve
Nope. Other way around.
Small is pressure.
Large is suction.
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 10:37 PM
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The core.

I wanted to keep things OEM. I wanted to find a local radiator shop for the possible repair, but I CANNOT find a trustworthy radiator shop in this town! San Diego!

I therefore decided to replace the OEM core. This is what I got.



. ....... I'm returning it.

And I swear someone here said I could have fitment problems.


Anyone know of a trustworthy shop that repairs these? I believe DeWitts only manufactures, not repairs.

Thanks so much.
Steve
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Old Apr 16, 2017 | 10:47 PM
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From whom did you buy the core replacement ? On Zip-corvette.com they have pictured one that looks identical to the original #M-324 priced at 79.99
You may call them and ask if the one they sell measures up to the original.

As for repair, seems harder to find the craftsman out there to do a lot of things today.
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Old Apr 17, 2017 | 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by caskiguy
From whom did you buy the core replacement ? On Zip-corvette.com they have pictured one that looks identical to the original #M-324 priced at 79.99
You may call them and ask if the one they sell measures up to the original.

As for repair, seems harder to find the craftsman out there to do a lot of things today.
My replacement is an O'reilly's product.
Even the Zip one is an import unfortunately.



OEM. HARRISON, A73 stamped. I really wanna fix & keep it caski.


Steve
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Old Apr 17, 2017 | 08:04 PM
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Look up Stantonradiator.com (they are listed on Angie's list ) give them a call to see if they can help you out or know someone who can. Just a thought.
Good Luck
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Old May 13, 2017 | 09:05 PM
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I am starting this oh-so-fun repair after watching a couple cups of coolant pour into the passenger footwell. As I was about to pull out the heater box, I saw one stud on the top left that had to be unfastened from the engine compartment, but the other three holes were empty!

So, are those three holes supposed to have screws to secure the heater box or studs that go into the engine compartment? If I need screws, what size do I need?
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Old May 13, 2017 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Logan176
I am starting this oh-so-fun repair after watching a couple cups of coolant pour into the passenger footwell. As I was about to pull out the heater box, I saw one stud on the top left that had to be unfastened from the engine compartment, but the other three holes were empty!

So, are those three holes supposed to have screws to secure the heater box or studs that go into the engine compartment? If I need screws, what size do I need?
Screws Logan.



.24" wide
1.17" long
7/16" head

At least that's what was holding the box in on my '73.
Good luck.

Steve
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Old May 14, 2017 | 06:55 AM
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Radiator shops are deceiving. I'm not saying trust anyone who says they can fix it but only a skilled shop would even try.... The one I use in Tampa is in a horrible neighborhood on a bad street but their work is top notch.

On Nebraska Ave between Fowler and Busch for the Tampa people....
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Old May 14, 2017 | 09:00 AM
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HEATER CORE, W/A/C-REPLACEMENT STYLE
Paragon Number: 5770
GM Part Number: 3015145
Years: 1968 - 1977
Stick With Us Price: $71.10

photo courtesy Paragon Corvette Reproductions
https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-35...ent-style.aspx

Good luck... GUSTO
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Old May 14, 2017 | 09:44 AM
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Thanks Gusto. I've read as much as I can find about this repair and I know the right core is tough to find.

I just jacked up my car and I see that the AC box in the engine bay seems like it is blocking my access to the back of the heater core. Do I need to pull this black box out? If so, and being that I have no intention of ever reinstalling the AC, does it make sense to just leave the box off and install the AC delete? My car is a driver and doesn't have matching numbers.
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Old May 14, 2017 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by caskiguy
........As for repair, seems harder to find the craftsman out there to do a lot of things today.
Keep in mind, older radiators/heater cores were primarily brass, and were put together with lead based solder. The EPA has outlawed a lot of that material, therefore it's not a lack of craftsmen, it's that the Government won't allow them to practice their craft.
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Old May 14, 2017 | 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Keep in mind, older radiators/heater cores were primarily brass, and were put together with lead based solder. The EPA has outlawed a lot of that material, therefore it's not a lack of craftsmen, it's that the Government won't allow them to practice their craft.
Something wrong with using silver solder ? Shops with qualified mechanics are still hard to find.
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Old May 14, 2017 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by caskiguy
Something wrong with using silver solder ? Shops with qualified mechanics are still hard to find.
Silver solder is most likely more expensive. Secondly, the auto industry, under pressure from the EPA, went to plastic heater/radiator tanks that are bonded together, 15-20 years ago, so no lead issues. Because of that, the "old timers" have retired, and the "new timers" don't have the personal experience.........and the "old car guys" find themselves in a bind, when trying to restore/repair older cars.

I fully understand your plight.
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