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I am considering doing a 400 CID engine for my 72 Vette and have a line on a 1972 400 engine block, but I don't know anything about these blocks for overbore. What I'm looking at, is how far can they "safely" be bored out?? As I don't already have a block, and most that I see available, have already been bored, I have concerns on "how big" the cylinders can be taken. I've spent the last 20 years on the LS engines, and have never had a 400 block in any of my cars, with no experience in the way of machine shops in my area to ask. I also have to wonder if a shop that I might be talking to, is just giving me lip service on the maximum bore size just to get my money. I don't have plans for any power adders, so it will be an NA engine, but I am still concerned about the life an overbored 400 will give me, and also, what is the best rod length for one?
Last edited by Redvette_22; Apr 17, 2017 at 11:05 AM.
I am going to build one also and have done em before. I like .030 over .040 is still good and I consider .060 the limit w/sonic check. If you are building a mild torque motor the stock rods are o-k, I will use 5.7 and consider 6.0 the best.
Last edited by Pop Chevy; Apr 17, 2017 at 12:36 PM.
I am also building a 400, but for my 72 Camaro. There are three basic rod lengths to choose from. Stock 400 long, stock 350 medium, and short rods for high rev race motors. The long rods will put a lot of force on the bores at B.D.C. egg shaping your bores over time. This is what has made a bad rap for the 400. I will use 350 rods and order the pistons to match. The pistons will weigh a little more but have a longer skirt for more stability in the bore. As for the block, I have a 4 bolt main. I hear the two bolt are actually stronger. I wont be racing, just want the fun factor of torque. I did this before in the early ninety's for a 69 El Camino I used to tow with. It worked so great that I am doing it again.
I am also building a 400, but for my 72 Camaro. There are three basic rod lengths to choose from. Stock 400 long, stock 350 medium, and short rods for high rev race motors. The long rods will put a lot of force on the bores at B.D.C. egg shaping your bores over time. This is what has made a bad rap for the 400. I will use 350 rods and order the pistons to match. The pistons will weigh a little more but have a longer skirt for more stability in the bore. As for the block, I have a 4 bolt main. I hear the two bolt are actually stronger. I wont be racing, just want the fun factor of torque. I did this before in the early ninety's for a 69 El Camino I used to tow with. It worked so great that I am doing it again.
Everything I have heard/read is the factory short rods are what cause the problems with the 400s at the bottoms of the cylinders. The longer rods keep the piston up in the cyl. farther which reduces the side load.
The common builds are with 5.7 or 6in rods. People will argue both ways about which is better. The deciding factory is compression ratio created by chamber of the heads you will use. With my 406 I had no choice but to use 5.7 rods with dished pistons because I didn't have a budget to replace the 58 cc heads.
4 bolt main 400 block made prior to oct of 1972 is the strongest .after that date gm went into weight saving mode which affected the 400 block because they took the "meat" from under the mains toward bottom edge of block. later years two bolt mains place inner bolts in the meatier part of the block so they went to two bolt with splayed outside bolts in new main caps. NEVER use 400 rods (5.565 ) thats how the 400 got a bad rap side load will destroy piston skirt,then destroy engine.there is no argument among people in the know only wannabe !!!!!!!all the power is derived from hanging at TDC with 6" rods and the added benefit of reduced sidewall pressure. 400 block prior to 72 .060 later two bolt .030.however best to sonic test for casting shifts.great motor when built with modern aluminum heads and retro-roller cam.in a CNC machine to square block.
Last edited by Captain bob; Apr 17, 2017 at 04:23 PM.
4 bolt main 400 block made prior to oct of 1972 is the strongest .after that date gm went into weight saving mode which affected the 400 block because they took the "meat" from under the mains toward bottom edge of block. later years two bolt mains place inner bolts in the meatier part of the block so they went to two bolt with splayed outside bolts in new main caps. NEVER use 400 rods (5.565 ) thats how the 400 got a bad rap side load will destroy piston skirt,then destroy engine.there is no argument among people in the know only wannabe !!!!!!!all the power is derived from hanging at TDC with 6" rods and the added benefit of reduced sidewall pressure. 400 block prior to 72 .060 later two bolt .030.however best to sonic test for casting shifts.great motor when built with modern aluminum heads and retro-roller cam.in a CNC machine to square block.
This is the correct info on rods you want to use the longer rods to keep the angle of the rod less. It just pushes the piston rod higher up in the piston. So much so it sometimes will put it into the ring land. Honestly most of the 400 blocks are not worth putting any power into. Buy an aftermarket block and put in a stroked crank and make a 421 or 427 use the right rods Andy make some real power.
The 434 build in the 69 is .040 on the bore, 1971 chevy block,4-bolt, flat top Mahle pistons, 6" scat rods. This is the 3rd season running with no problems, great torque engine. T
The 434 build in the 69 is .040 on the bore, 1971 chevy block,4-bolt, flat top Mahle pistons, 6" scat rods. This is the 3rd season running with no problems, great torque engine. T
It's a 4 inch stroke, remember I'm starting with a 4 1/8 inch bore [400] block. This also requires a small base circle camshaft and a lot of costly clearance machine work. T
Bluprint also sells a 400 block just another opiton
Shame GM doesnt sell a better version with a roller cam provision and 1 pc rear seal they would sell a million of them
Has anybody done a sonic test on their block before attempting any work on the cylinders? If so, what dimensions did you get for the "major" and "minor" side of the cylinders? What is considered "safe" for the wall thickness "after" boring the block?
I am considering doing a 400 CID engine for my 72 Vette and have a line on a 1972 400 engine block, but I don't know anything about these blocks for overbore. What I'm looking at, is how far can they "safely" be bored out?? As I don't already have a block, and most that I see available, have already been bored, I have concerns on "how big" the cylinders can be taken. I've spent the last 20 years on the LS engines, and have never had a 400 block in any of my cars, with no experience in the way of machine shops in my area to ask. I also have to wonder if a shop that I might be talking to, is just giving me lip service on the maximum bore size just to get my money. I don't have plans for any power adders, so it will be an NA engine, but I am still concerned about the life an overbored 400 will give me, and also, what is the best rod length for one?
I had a '72 Caprice convertible with the 400 SB and while it ran great while I had it, the knock on these engines is the "siamese cylinder" configuration. Apparently (read up on wiki or something to confirm) the cylinder bore inside the SB block is so great that the walls between the cylinders are unusually thin and GM had to abandon the coolant channels between cylinders (if I remember correctly). They tended to run hot and because the bore was already oversize, they did not lend well to boring as it removed even more material between an already thinner than "normal cylinder wall. Just my $.02 and it may all be hearsay and rumor, but may be worth checking out especially in cars that already tend to run hot. Also, keep in mind the production of 400 SB engines was not too long for a reason...
I never had a 400 that ran hot and I've had a few of them. I've towed with em, raced with em, put em in a hot rod truck. I surprised a LOT of people with one in a 57 Chevy pickup.
.030 over is my limit for the street on my 400, the machine here stated tht you can do .040 over may require some block fill in coolant passages around the bottom of the cyl. But I won't try that, they recommended .060 over and block fill only for use in race cars that don't see street use.
.030 over is my limit for the street on my 400, the machine here stated tht you can do .040 over may require some block fill in coolant passages around the bottom of the cyl. But I won't try that, they recommended .060 over and block fill only for use in race cars that don't see street use.
Did the machine shop do a sonic test on the cylinder walls before making those suggestions? I know each block is different, due to core shift and such, but if you don't check the wall thickness you could be in trouble with a .030 overbore also.