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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:19 PM
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Default Degree Cam Question

Hey I degreed my Comp Cams 08-466-8 268XFI camshaft. Cam card says says to install the cam so that the intake center line is at 109 degrees ATDC. The LSA is 113.

When I installed the cam dot to dot I found the intake center line to be at 104.5 degrees ATDC. So it was advanced by about 4.5 degrees. This seems like a lot?

I retarded the cam 4 degrees and checked the intake centerline and measured 109 degrees ATDC.

4 degrees off seems like a lot? And is what I did correct? First time degreeing a cam.

I think 4 degrees advanced is built in to the cam, so retarding the cam 4 degrees would match the cam card?

Thanks.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Domobomb
Hey I degreed my Comp Cams 08-466-8 268XFI camshaft. Cam card says says to install the cam so that the intake center line is at 109 degrees ATDC. The LSA is 113.

When I installed the cam dot to dot I found the intake center line to be at 104.5 degrees ATDC. So it was advanced by about 4.5 degrees. This seems like a lot?

I retarded the cam 4 degrees and checked the intake centerline and measured 109 degrees ATDC.

4 degrees off seems like a lot? And is what I did correct? First time degreeing a cam.

I think 4 degrees advanced is built in to the cam, so retarding the cam 4 degrees would match the cam card?

Thanks.
That seems like a lot. Anything is possible, but the several cams I've installed and degreed have typically been spot on or within a half degree. I think I've seen one solid cam in the past on a race motor that was off two degrees so we advanced it with an offset dowel. If it's still apart I would start from scratch, reestablish TDC and run through the process once more just to make sure.

If it's too retarded it will still run, but you'll lose the low end torque that you probably chose this cam for. Just my opinion. I think it's probably unlikely that a high production comp cam came out of the box ground advanced by 4 degrees. Anything is possible, though.

Last edited by JoeMinnesota; May 1, 2017 at 09:40 PM.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 09:41 PM
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I agree that seems like a lot. Triple check everything.
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Old May 1, 2017 | 10:41 PM
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Thanks. I did check everything several times.

I did a lot of reading and my understanding is that most aftermarket cams have 4 degrees advanced ground in to the cam.

I guess I'm asking if I need to retard the cam to match the cam card specs.

I'm thinking now I should set the degree wheel and dial indicator up again to check the cam event timing to see at what degree valves open and close now with the 4 degree retard to see how that matches the cam card.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 08:02 AM
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A call to Comp Cam tech would help to see if the cam is ground correctly.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 08:08 AM
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Old May 2, 2017 | 08:35 AM
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Trust your degree wheel and set it up like the cam card asked

Out of the above posters ask how many have ever degreed in a cam and how many times do they do it a year

I've been very dissapointed in comp cams billet steel custom rollers. My last one was 3.5 wrong. So you could not match it because the timing set has 2 degree incremental changes

When you talk about 4 degrees ground in. That is the actual valve event numbers from your cam card and yes CC tends to do this compared to other cam companies
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Old May 2, 2017 | 10:02 AM
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This is good info, when I buy a cam, I want to be able to set it up dot to dot and be done with it. looks like I am supposed to be asking special questions depending on the cam manufacturer.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 10:17 AM
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My Straub cam was out 7.5 degrees...


If you checked and double checked your degree wheel, go with it.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by joewill
This is good info, when I buy a cam, I want to be able to set it up dot to dot and be done with it. looks like I am supposed to be asking special questions depending on the cam manufacturer.
If you do this, you have no idea if the cam is installed correctly or not. You have to check and it is a pretty easy process. Regardless of manufacturer, always degree in a cam.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 10:25 AM
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Your chain set, your lifter bore angle, your keyway on the crankshaft can all affect camshaft phasing. We do not use centerline method here. We use duration method and phase the cam in by using the valve events. Centerline method is based on the opening side of the lobe being the same as the closing side. In todays's world with asymetrical lobes centerline method can be off quite a bit.

We print duration method on the cam card. If you are not familiar with it, Crane has it on their website.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 10:26 AM
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I've degreed a Comp solid flat tappet and a Cam Motion solid roller. Both were within 1 degree. If the advance was ground into the cam, the cam card valve events will already reflect that. Don't forget that the quality of your timing chain/sprockets, crank keyway, the size of your degree wheel, and the accuracy of your TDC measurement all affect your measured intake centerline.

Last edited by Neil B; May 2, 2017 at 10:29 AM.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 11:17 AM
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If you really want to drive yourself crazy, check the lobe timing on each cylinder.

Mike
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Old May 2, 2017 | 11:19 AM
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with a professional 24" degree wheel my lunati roller cam was 4 degrees advance i retarted it 2 degrees by way of made in west germany roller chain used by world champ that has 8 advance slots and 8 retard slots in 1 degree increments a truly perfect machine piece of technology.
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Old May 2, 2017 | 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by v2racing
If you really want to drive yourself crazy, check the lobe timing on each cylinder.

Mike
When you're verifying PTV clearance, I'd check duration @.050 on at least one cylinder just to do it. It's fun if you've got the tools and engine is on a stand.
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Old May 3, 2017 | 03:34 PM
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Thanks for all the responses guys.

I'll check the 0.050" duration and see how it compares to the cam card tonight or tomorrow.
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Old May 8, 2017 | 01:11 AM
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I checked cam event timings and the PTV, and push rod length I needed.

Cam card says:

IO 25 BTDC / IC 63 ABDC
EO 75 BBDC / EC 21 ATDC

I measured (With cam retarded 4 degrees):

IO 25 BTDC / IC 63 ABDC
EO 71 BBDC / EC 23 ATDC

Intake is right on, exhaust is off a bit. Exhaust opens 4 degrees late from the cam card. I checked this several times, both at the lifter and at the valve spring retainer. This cam seems a bit messed.

PTV was about .110" intake and .250" exhaust. Using play dough method.

Think this all sounds ok enough to bolt it all down?
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Old May 8, 2017 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Domobomb
I checked cam event timings and the PTV, and push rod length I needed.

Cam card says:

IO 25 BTDC / IC 63 ABDC
EO 75 BBDC / EC 21 ATDC

I measured (With cam retarded 4 degrees):

IO 25 BTDC / IC 63 ABDC
EO 71 BBDC / EC 23 ATDC

Intake is right on, exhaust is off a bit. Exhaust opens 4 degrees late from the cam card. I checked this several times, both at the lifter and at the valve spring retainer. This cam seems a bit messed.

PTV was about .110" intake and .250" exhaust. Using play dough method.

Think this all sounds ok enough to bolt it all down?
This is what I was talking about checking each lobe on each cylinder driving you crazy. The locations of the lifter bores have tolerances. Plus or minus this way or that way and you get different cam lobe timings. The lobes have plus or minus tolerances too. No mass produced products are dead on + or - zero. There will always be some variance in timing. If you check all 16 lobes they will probably each be a little different.

You are close enough on your cam. Run it.

Mike
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