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Good Morning, I have a recently acquired 78 with a ZZ4 engine and an Edelbrock carb. I've been dickering with the timing and have a beginners question. The engine starts hard, idles smooth, "chatters" on acceleration and tries to continue running when it's shut off. I have the paperwork from when the engine was installed which says for the timing to be set at 10* btdc at 800 rpm with advance plugged and 32* total at 4000 rpm. I'm at 10* at 800 but still have these symptoms. Do I need to advance or retard the timing to alleviate this? Also, the vacuum advance is connected to a port on the carb that has suction at idle. I thought that it should be to a ported source but my reading shows that some run to full vacuum. Any tips are appreciated, thanks in advance!
Check the timing after you plug the vac back in it may be the vac advance is to high.Also what happens if you don't plug the vac back in and take it for a ride is it better?
Check the timing after you plug the vac back in it may be the vac advance is to high.Also what happens if you don't plug the vac back in and take it for a ride is it better?
Thanks for your reply...Timing with the VA plugged back in is 10 btdc at 800 rpms. Haven't tried to drive it with the VA disconnected. I assume that would rule out a bad vacuum advance?
It certainly sounds like your timing is too far advanced, although 10 degrees is hardly a lot. You should probably check the timing mark on the balancer to make sure it coincides with top dead center. The balancers have been known to fail and for the outer ring to rotate on the inner ring, throwing the timing marks off. Also what cam, heads, and compression are you running? These are the things that will affect your timing requirements. As for the ported vs manifold vacuum argument, most guys (myself included) run manifold vacuum.
It certainly sounds like your timing is too far advanced, although 10 degrees is hardly a lot. You should probably check the timing mark on the balancer to make sure it coincides with top dead center. The balancers have been known to fail and for the outer ring to rotate on the inner ring, throwing the timing marks off. Also what cam, heads, and compression are you running? These are the things that will affect your timing requirements. As for the ported vs manifold vacuum argument, most guys (myself included) run manifold vacuum.
thanks for your reply...the engine, as far as I know is a stock ZZ4 which according to the book that came with the car says that is has aluminum heads with 1.94" intake and 1.50" exhaust valves and 58cc combustion chambers with a 10:1 compression ratio. Has a steel roller tappet camshaft with .474 intake and 0510 exhaust valve lift. Makes 355 hp at 5250 rpm.
thanks for your reply...the engine, as far as I know is a stock ZZ4 which according to the book that came with the car says that is has aluminum heads with 1.94" intake and 1.50" exhaust valves and 58cc combustion chambers with a 10:1 compression ratio. Has a steel roller tappet camshaft with .474 intake and 0510 exhaust valve lift. Makes 355 hp at 5250 rpm.
What is the camshaft duration at .050"? That is the relevant number. You are probably in the 220 degree range. From the information I have it sounds like 10-12 degrees of initial advance is about right. 32-36 degrees of total centrifugal advance all in by about 3000 rpm should work. Plus an additional 10-18 degrees of vacuum advance. I think your next step is to confirm that the timing marks are correct.
I finally found some camshaft specs for your engine. You only have 208 degrees of intake duration. Your initial advance should therefore be in the 8-10 degree range, so you should be in the ballpark if your timing marks are correct. regardless, a couple fo degrees either way is unlikely to cause the kind of problem you are having. I think you are going to find you are out farther than that for some reason. Either that or the problem is unrelated to timing. The next thing to check would be mixture related, vacuum leak, etc., possibly fuel quality.
I finally found some camshaft specs for your engine. You only have 208 degrees of intake duration. Your initial advance should therefore be in the 8-10 degree range, so you should be in the ballpark if your timing marks are correct. regardless, a couple fo degrees either way is unlikely to cause the kind of problem you are having. I think you are going to find you are out farther than that for some reason. Either that or the problem is unrelated to timing. The next thing to check would be mixture related, vacuum leak, etc., possibly fuel quality.
I say with a bit of embarrassment that I discovered my problem. Disagreement with my fancy digital advance timing light. Once I had the idea to set the advance on the light to 0 and do it the old school way, dead on 10* and she runs well. Thanks for all of the great info. You guys are great! Now to that pesky exhaust leak...thanks again for the very prompt and excellent information. Hope I can return the favor!
Dan