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I said the updated tko but I don't have the updated my self. I bought the old keisler 600 kit I guess that I got the lucky one. I made maybe a thousand laps over the years road racing with three different motors shifting at or near my 7500 rpm rev limiter. It wasn't until later that I heard that other people were having problems
If I let the RPM's drop it will shift fine. The problem I have is when power shifting (basically not letting off of the throttle).
Don't get me wrong, I do love the way this thing shifts and handles. I still think it was a great update for my car.
The Keisler TK500 that I have with 11 lb flywheel and Sachs clutch
I have the TKO600 with the light weight flywheel and the sachs clutch also
Last edited by 76Rat; May 8, 2017 at 08:55 AM.
Reason: added info
Was leaning in that direction but wanted to see what issues folks were having. Just have to do some math and figure out which ratio to go with. thanks for all the input.
If I let the RPM's drop it will shift fine. The problem I have is when power shifting (basically not letting off of the throttle).
the power shifting is so detrimental to everything for just minor gains in acceleration
To the poster get online and look at gearing, tire dia, and rpm The tko 600 has 2.87 first gear and when combined to 3.73 requires very little clutch slipping to get going if you have some power
Wanting to do a 5 or 6 speed swap on my '71 350/270, 4-speed w/~120K miles.
When doing a swap, can anyone make a case why the 5-speed would be preferred over a 6-speed?
I know there are probably dozens of threads addressing this next question, but what is the best route for getting around my stock, non-removable cross member?
2nd and 3rd are kind of generic. 4th is direct. You need to figure 5th and 1st. Launch ratio. 9:1 is good for the street. 10 to 10.5 for drag strip. You get 1st too deep, you will be hitting second in 2 car lengths. And pulling out in second cuz 1st just pisses you off and now you have a really expensive 3 speed with OD...
Wanting to do a 5 or 6 speed swap on my '71 350/270, 4-speed w/~120K miles.
When doing a swap, can anyone make a case why the 5-speed would be preferred over a 6-speed?
I know there are probably dozens of threads addressing this next question, but what is the best route for getting around my stock, non-removable cross member?
Thanks
between the two fo them the size is going to be the issue. The 5 speed will fit the stock non removable cross member. It is tight but will go. The 6 speed requires a removable one and a good deal of modification to make it fit. I have had both in my car. Actually a TKO 500 and 600 and now a T56. I really like the T56 but it is a lot more work. The 500 with 3.73 gears does have a little bit short of a first gear. The 600 is way better. Honestly if you can make the cross member removable. I did the first time years ago with the 500 and have had mine out countless times and it makes it so much easier to remove. A lot less time consuming and lot less busted knuckles.
Wanting to do a 5 or 6 speed swap on my '71 350/270, 4-speed w/~120K miles.
When doing a swap, can anyone make a case why the 5-speed would be preferred over a 6-speed?
I know there are probably dozens of threads addressing this next question, but what is the best route for getting around my stock, non-removable cross member?
Thanks
Next time I will do a 4 speed manuel car to 5 speed (WC transmission), then I will take the engine out.
But it can be done as told above, I did that, I also took out the radiator. It was tight.
between the two fo them the size is going to be the issue. The 5 speed will fit the stock non removable cross member. It is tight but will go. The 6 speed requires a removable one and a good deal of modification to make it fit. I have had both in my car. Actually a TKO 500 and 600 and now a T56. I really like the T56 but it is a lot more work. The 500 with 3.73 gears does have a little bit short of a first gear. The 600 is way better. Honestly if you can make the cross member removable. I did the first time years ago with the 500 and have had mine out countless times and it makes it so much easier to remove. A lot less time consuming and lot less busted knuckles.
For street use (no racing), what 5-speed & rear end gear ratios would you recommend? Ideally, don't I want the two ratios to multiply to 10?
How do you suggest making the original 4-speed cross member removable?
If I didn't want to modify the fixed 4-speed cross member, am I required to remove the engine when swapping or servicing the new 5-speed trans?
1.For street use (no racing), what 5-speed & rear end gear ratios would you recommend? Ideally, don't I want the two ratios to multiply to 10?
2. How do you suggest making the original 4-speed cross member removable?
3. If I didn't want to modify the fixed 4-speed cross member, am I required to remove the engine when swapping or servicing the new 5-speed trans?
Thanks
1. If you don't race, then a T5WC transmission will do the job for you. If you can get a T5WC like the 1352-176 transmission, then I would go for a 4.11 rear.
2. You don't need to take it out, if you go for a T5WC, I don't know about 500/600 transmissions.
3. No, not if you go for T5 transmissions.
You ask, "what is the best", that would be, as I see it, a brand new 5 speed like the TKO 600 and if you get a perfect fit kit, then you have all you need. But is cost some $
For much less, you can go for a T5WC, but is will give you a bit more work :- )
If I didn't want to modify the fixed 4-speed cross member, am I required to remove the engine when swapping or servicing the new 5-speed trans?
Thanks
you can use the existing welded in one for the 5 speeds. It can be removed and installed this way. It is just more work and is a tight squeeze but it can be done. The WC5 speed is smaller and will be easier to remove and install. Your not running a lot of HP so it should hold up fine.
I'm going with the SST auto to manual kit and the TKO-600 RR with .82 od, to put behind my 496 cu in.
Keep in mind the operating and cruising rpm's of your cam when you pick your trans and rear end gears.
It all has to work together and depends on what you plan to use your car for.
I'm going with the SST auto to manual kit and the TKO-600 RR with .82 od, to put behind my 496 cu in.
Keep in mind the operating and cruising rpm's of your cam when you pick your trans and rear end gears.
It all has to work together and depends on what you plan to use your car for.
Can you please explain how the cam profile effects the trans & rear end gear choice?
Can you please explain how the cam profile effects the trans & rear end gear choice?
Thanks
Say if a motor is "happy" cruising at 2400 rpm due to the cam then lugging it at 1800 wont do you a bit of good.
Lower rpm does not always equal better.
Ex -DD 02 Silverado, stock 3.73 gear, 4.60e gets the same mileage at 60 in D as it does in OD. So 65 up OD is a plus, on the st it just lugs the motor.
If you got a big cam OD is useless unless youre really humming. 6th gear in my A body, unless Im doing 80plus isnt needed period.