Rotor runout
Safety Car
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,753
Likes: 721
From: Lafayette Louisiana
Hi, Croaker!
My 2 cents:
Agree, if you drill out the rivets and reinstall in the exact location, no shims.
I would:
1. Check the runout before you drill out the original rotors and remove.
2. Sounds like you plan to reuse the original rotors, if so, you want to index mark exactly how they were installed to reinstall as original.
Note: Originally, the rotors were first riveted on and then turned on the hub. So if you turn your old rotors off the hub, it is a new ball game. Some purists I know rivet a new rotor on the old hub and then turn and true up as an assembly. I used new rotors and shimmed between the new rotor and hub to get less then .005 runout and that works fine. These are fixed calipers so any runout will pump the calipers.
If your old rotors look decent, like my 68, I would not drill out and remove them. I just cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner, hand sanded with 80 grit, reinstalled and checked the runout and then new pads.
Hope this helps.
Agree, if you drill out the rivets and reinstall in the exact location, no shims.
I would:
1. Check the runout before you drill out the original rotors and remove.
2. Sounds like you plan to reuse the original rotors, if so, you want to index mark exactly how they were installed to reinstall as original.
Note: Originally, the rotors were first riveted on and then turned on the hub. So if you turn your old rotors off the hub, it is a new ball game. Some purists I know rivet a new rotor on the old hub and then turn and true up as an assembly. I used new rotors and shimmed between the new rotor and hub to get less then .005 runout and that works fine. These are fixed calipers so any runout will pump the calipers.
If your old rotors look decent, like my 68, I would not drill out and remove them. I just cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner, hand sanded with 80 grit, reinstalled and checked the runout and then new pads.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by 20mercury; May 15, 2017 at 12:28 PM.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 331
Likes: 29
From: Moyock NC
My 2 cents:
Agree, if you drill out the rivets and reinstall in the exact location, no shims.
I would:
1. Check the runout before you drill out the original rotors and remove.
2. Sounds like you plan to reuse the original rotors, if so, you want to index mark exactly how they were installed to reinstall as original.
Note: Originally, the rotors were first riveted on and then turned on the hub. So if you turn your old rotors off the hub, it is a new ball game. Some purists I know rivet a new rotor on the old hub and then turn and true up as an assembly. I used new rotors and shimmed between the new rotor and hub to get less then .005 runout and that works fine. These are fixed calipers so any runout will pump the calipers.
If your old rotors look decent, like my 68, I would not drill out and remove them. I just cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner, hand sanded with 80 grit, reinstalled and checked the runout and then new pads.
Hope this helps.
Agree, if you drill out the rivets and reinstall in the exact location, no shims.
I would:
1. Check the runout before you drill out the original rotors and remove.
2. Sounds like you plan to reuse the original rotors, if so, you want to index mark exactly how they were installed to reinstall as original.
Note: Originally, the rotors were first riveted on and then turned on the hub. So if you turn your old rotors off the hub, it is a new ball game. Some purists I know rivet a new rotor on the old hub and then turn and true up as an assembly. I used new rotors and shimmed between the new rotor and hub to get less then .005 runout and that works fine. These are fixed calipers so any runout will pump the calipers.
If your old rotors look decent, like my 68, I would not drill out and remove them. I just cleaned thoroughly with brake cleaner, hand sanded with 80 grit, reinstalled and checked the runout and then new pads.
Hope this helps.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,754
From: Charlotte NC
'croaker'
ASSUMING that the car has not curbed the rear wheels...thus causing the spindle to be off. I would say that as long as you keep the rotors on the side that you took them off...and make SURE that the spindle surface is CLEAN AS A WHISTLE and so is the rotor where the two contact...you should be OK.
But...once again...that is assuming that they are fine...which is why I would check them before I take them off.
DUB
ASSUMING that the car has not curbed the rear wheels...thus causing the spindle to be off. I would say that as long as you keep the rotors on the side that you took them off...and make SURE that the spindle surface is CLEAN AS A WHISTLE and so is the rotor where the two contact...you should be OK.
But...once again...that is assuming that they are fine...which is why I would check them before I take them off.
DUB
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Verdad Gallardo
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
'croaker'
ASSUMING that the car has not curbed the rear wheels...thus causing the spindle to be off. I would say that as long as you keep the rotors on the side that you took them off...and make SURE that the spindle surface is CLEAN AS A WHISTLE and so is the rotor where the two contact...you should be OK.
But...once again...that is assuming that they are fine...which is why I would check them before I take them off.
DUB
ASSUMING that the car has not curbed the rear wheels...thus causing the spindle to be off. I would say that as long as you keep the rotors on the side that you took them off...and make SURE that the spindle surface is CLEAN AS A WHISTLE and so is the rotor where the two contact...you should be OK.
But...once again...that is assuming that they are fine...which is why I would check them before I take them off.
DUB
Excellent advice! Thanks for the post DUB!
GUSTO