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I had a stud bolt nut (Comp Cams) that came loose when driving my car. All the nut are new, the studs are ARP (AFR 195 heads)
Thread on the studs are 3/8-24
What nut must I buy?
I don't want to drive with a loose nut again
Thx.
I have Comp Cams Rocker Arms 1416-16, so will they work with ARP lock nuts?
Also I have L46 alu. valve cover, and I would like to keep them in the car.
Thx.
I have Comp Cams Rocker Arms 1416-16, so will they work with ARP lock nuts?
Also I have L46 alu. valve cover, and I would like to keep them in the car.
Most "poly-locks" won't fit with the OEM "standard-hgt" valve covers.
You also cannot (should not) use any self-locking type nuts on the ARP R/A studs, this info comes straight from ARP's instructions (photo below) when you purchase their studs.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Self-locking nuts don't conform well to studs mfd using the "rolled" thread method, this is how all ARP fasteners are mfd. The nuts will work with machined threads! Most studs are now mfd with the "rolled" method.
I'm using roller tipped rockers from Comp. Their locking nuts were not easy to get on due to the way the rocker arm is formed, so I'm using their 4602-16 poly lock kit, which are designed for stamped rockers. I'm running L-82 valve covers with no clearance issues (though the drip tabs were removed. I'm not sure if that's necessary though).
Most "poly-locks" won't fit with the OEM "standard-hgt" valve covers.
You also cannot (should not) use any self-locking type nuts on the ARP R/A studs, this info comes straight from ARP's instructions (photo below) when you purchase their studs.
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. Self-locking nuts don't conform well to studs mfd using the "rolled" thread method, this is how all ARP fasteners are mfd. The nuts will work with machined threads! Most studs are now mfd with the "rolled" method.
Great info here Gary, I didn't know it was rolled threads, so It make sense for me now, I didn't understand that I've forgotten to adjust and make the extra ½ turn.
Originally Posted by dmruschell
I'm using roller tipped rockers from Comp. Their locking nuts were not easy to get on due to the way the rocker arm is formed, so I'm using their 4602-16 poly lock kit, which are designed for stamped rockers. I'm running L-82 valve covers with no clearance issues (though the drip tabs were removed. I'm not sure if that's necessary though).
THANKS !!
If they can be used with my Comp Cams 1416 and my L46 alu. valve covers, then I will buy them
Also I agree with the above, so I took a 16mm socket, and CNC it down, so I can adjust correct.
I run AFR 195s with the L82 valve cover, comp full roller rockers, ARP studs (7/16 big block studs) with poly locks.
The combination of removing the drip tabs under the valve covers and the fact that the AFR195s come with a raised valve cover mount built-in provides enough clearance.
The only issue I had was with the venting on the valve cover. It was a bit too wide to fit between the two rockers. Needed to be pinched a bit.
The locking screw should not stick out above the threads of the outer nut. It's odd that this happened on yours, since (and I double checked) 4602-16 is designed for those rockers. Using polylocks made for full roller rockers will cause the issue you saw. I made that mistake, and the locking screws didn't grab enough threads to lock down tight enough and I had some major problems when they loosened up.
The locking screw should not stick out above the threads of the outer nut. It's odd that this happened on yours, since (and I double checked) 4602-16 is designed for those rockers. Using polylocks made for full roller rockers will cause the issue you saw. I made that mistake, and the locking screws didn't grab enough threads to lock down tight enough and I had some major problems when they loosened up.
I think it is because the AFR heads comes with "long" ARP studs.
The studs are 0.25" longer "then normal"