Eddie13f

Hey forum guys,

So I've read every thread I can find and tried everything. I can't find my gremlin.

So I replaced the steering column in my 1973 with a tilt tele column and everything went smoothly. A couple months later I was pulled over because my taillights weren't on at night. (Cop was cool, no ticket)

So my tail lights and dash lights do not work. Brake lights function, turn signals work.

- I replaced the headlight switch as most threads mentioned and no dice.
- I triple checked the fuses and all are good, and all were replaced as an extra measure.
- I found that when I have the headlight switch pulled, the INST LPS fuse doesn't have power.

My thought is that it doesn't have a full ground contacts.

What can I try next?

DUB

I am not saying that a ground is not the problem....but with your turn signals and brake lights working...I doubt it UNTIL you try to use your turn signals or brake lights WHEN the headlights are on ..thus your rear running lights a re on. IF the lights act crazy at that time...then YES...you have a ground issue.

Here may be where you have a problem.

You wrote that you checked the fuses and they are all OK.. BUT how did you check them??? because it DOES make a difference. If all you did was look at them and see if they were blown...you might still have problem.

You need to use a voltmeter and check to see if you have battery voltage current passing though them...REGARDLESS if the fuse looks good. DO NOT use a test light...it is pointless due to it will not tell you the amount of volts. This also makes a difference becasue you want to verity that you are getting the voltage that your battery has in it or really close to it....because you can test this and find that you might get voltage...but it might only be 6 volts instead of 12 volts...and that tells me you have a dirty corroded fuse holder in your fuse panel.

Using a voltmeter will aid you in finding if either the fuse element on the inside of the fuse itself has come off the chrome end and you can not see it...OR...the ends of the fuse that clip into your fuse panel are slightly corroded and it just needs to be removed and cleaned to get a good contact and work.

Your headlight switch...when pulled...MUST supply power to ONE SIDE of that short fuse in your fuse panel. IF it does not...then you have an issue in the headlgith switch. NO WAY AROUND THAT.

When you pull your headlight switch...do the front park lights come on???

Do you have a wiring diagram????

DUB

Eddie13f

Thanks DUB for your detailed response. This is exactly what I was hoping for. I will definitely try to use my turn signals and brake lights when the headlights are on.

I did check the fuses with a voltmeter. How I checked was when the fuse is powered, I made sure to have 12 volts on each side of the fuse itself as well as on the fuse clamps or the pins I guess. Basically, I found that each fuse was transmitting 12 volts and the fuses had good contact with the fuse block. Again, the INST Fuse had no power at any position of the headlight switch.

So because the headlight switch never powered the short fuse, then both the new headlight switch I bought and the old one are not functioning?

I will see if the front parking lights work with the switch as well and I do use this diagram for wiring: http://www.keystonestatecorvetteclub...tte%201973.pdf

atp1234

Check the harness running down the column. When I put my column in i sandwiched it between the flange of the column and the mounting plate.

TOM B1

From what I understand the orange wire on the switch runs the tail lights and the dash lights so check the fuse panel at the tail light fuse for power. I dont think you have power coming into your fuse. check to see that the outside firewall side of the fuse block (under the hood) did not come loose or was not reinstall correctly.
I think this tail light fuse section gets its power from the horn relay under the hood but not 100% on that.

Eddie13f

If you're right about the horn relay, you might be on to something. I rebuilt my horn pad mechanism with the new column and may have shorted it out. I'll have to check that for power.

buns

I would check the connector on the back of the headlight switch, the terminals can become dislodged.

caskiguy

Jim Shea may have just answered your question in another post titled "steering wheel wiring sequence" listed just above your posting.

Eddie13f

Thank you for sharing - maybe it's because I have no idea what I'm doing, but do how do I find his post? I've searched, found my post in the list, and I can't find what you're referencing.

Jim has been a lifesaver in the past with swapping in the new column, so it's not a surprise he may know the issue.

Thanks!

Eddie13f

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-sequence.html

Answered my own question.

DUB

So is it working correctly now or do you still have a problem???

The dark green wire on your headlight switch is what supplies power to the small fuse in your fuse panel when you pull your headlight switch so your instrument lights come on.

Your taillights and instrument lights do not rely on your turn signal switch working.

DUB

Eddie13f

Dub,

Still no luck. The brake lights function normally when the headlights are on and turn signals active.

The headlights work but not the side lamps or running lights.

The horn also does not work

Dash lights still don't work.

Eddie13f

Okay, so I ran a jumper from the power (red) to the tail lights (brown) on the headlight switch.

So my logic tells me both switches I have are broken... correct?

caskiguy

Do you have a electric schematic for your car ? I haven't seen that stated.
If you don't I may be able to send you one.

Eddie13f

Thanks for the offer, caskiguy, here is what I use: http://www.keystonestatecorvetteclub...tte%201973.pdf

caskiguy

Pretty much the same spaghetti pictures I have.
Did you happen to check as was stated earlier in your thread the fuse block connection(s) on the firewall ? I just recently took mine off and it was showing signs of corrosion from moisture bypassing the seal.
It looks harder to get off than it is, just takes a little firm wiggling. I'm still trying to locate something that may help you, hang in there the answer will show up shortly I'm sure.

Eddie13f

THANK YOU for your help. I pulled the harness off the back of the fuse box and it isn't bad. There is a good amount of grease on the terminals, no real corrosion.

caskiguy

You did have your battery disconnected when you preformed work on your car correct ? I know, but I had to ask.

Eddie13f

Haha, thanks for checking, and yes, it was unplugged apart from when I was testing fuses with the voltmeter.

caskiguy

Eddie, have you "fixed any of the original issues" yet ?