Stainless Trailing Arm Bolts
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I do not know of any and honestly I do not see the need. Coating the shaft of the bolt with anti-seize before it is installed in the trailing arm bushing will aid in allowing it to not seize up and be able to come out easy in the future.
Also...depending on the type of stainless steel bolt...because they can be different..I do not know if the grade of that specific bolt is equal to the grade 5 that the original bolt came in. And knowing it is a part of your suspension...I would be careful in using something that may be more brittle and actually break.
DUB
Also...depending on the type of stainless steel bolt...because they can be different..I do not know if the grade of that specific bolt is equal to the grade 5 that the original bolt came in. And knowing it is a part of your suspension...I would be careful in using something that may be more brittle and actually break.
DUB
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,335
Likes: 1,590
From: Western NY
I admit that it's been about 20 years, since I replaced the bolts/shims on a C-3, but I recall that I bought them as a set, probably the same time I bought a bunch of parts from VB&P. I'd start there.......
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 224
From: Pawleys Island, SC
I do not know of any and honestly I do not see the need. Coating the shaft of the bolt with anti-seize before it is installed in the trailing arm bushing will aid in allowing it to not seize up and be able to come out easy in the future.
Also...depending on the type of stainless steel bolt...because they can be different..I do not know if the grade of that specific bolt is equal to the grade 5 that the original bolt came in. And knowing it is a part of your suspension...I would be careful in using something that may be more brittle and actually break.
DUB
Also...depending on the type of stainless steel bolt...because they can be different..I do not know if the grade of that specific bolt is equal to the grade 5 that the original bolt came in. And knowing it is a part of your suspension...I would be careful in using something that may be more brittle and actually break.
DUB
This is a photo from way back then.
Last edited by revitup; May 19, 2017 at 08:12 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I understand that wanting to improve on an area that has shown to cause you a problem.
IF you used stainless steel bolts and nuts...they are prone to seize/gall also.
I am glad to read that you use an anti-seize compound. I do.
what i also do which may not matter is that when I do trailing arms..i get teh castle nut that is just like what GM used. I can tell in your photo that the castle nut is NOT like what GM used. You can see in yours that they tapered the outer area and did not keep the nut the same dimension from end to end.....like the castle nuts you have every were else on your front suspension components. When I look and see the nuts on the trailing arm that looks like that it start to set off bells in my head becasue I then have to wonder if whoever did the work ...they knew what they were doing (NOT implying anything) because I have come across so many Corvettes where the trailing arm bushing was not staked correctly or the actual shims were loose and I could move them by hand....or the hole in the bolt for the castle nut is not aligned up with the castleation in the nut and the cotter pin is not doing anything but be in the hole in the bolt...because the nut is too far away to let the cotter pin do its job.
DUB
IF you used stainless steel bolts and nuts...they are prone to seize/gall also.
I am glad to read that you use an anti-seize compound. I do.
what i also do which may not matter is that when I do trailing arms..i get teh castle nut that is just like what GM used. I can tell in your photo that the castle nut is NOT like what GM used. You can see in yours that they tapered the outer area and did not keep the nut the same dimension from end to end.....like the castle nuts you have every were else on your front suspension components. When I look and see the nuts on the trailing arm that looks like that it start to set off bells in my head becasue I then have to wonder if whoever did the work ...they knew what they were doing (NOT implying anything) because I have come across so many Corvettes where the trailing arm bushing was not staked correctly or the actual shims were loose and I could move them by hand....or the hole in the bolt for the castle nut is not aligned up with the castleation in the nut and the cotter pin is not doing anything but be in the hole in the bolt...because the nut is too far away to let the cotter pin do its job.
DUB
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 224
From: Pawleys Island, SC
Thanks for the input. I see what you're saying about the castellated nut. Got the hardware from a major corvette supplier, no idea which after all this time. The new set I just ordered has the proper nut.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,335
Likes: 1,590
From: Western NY
what i also do which may not matter is that when I do trailing arms..i get teh castle nut that is just like what GM used. I can tell in your photo that the castle nut is NOT like what GM used. You can see in yours that they tapered the outer area and did not keep the nut the same dimension from end to end.....like the castle nuts you have every were else on your front suspension components. When I look and see the nuts on the trailing arm that looks like that it start to set off bells in my head becasue I then have to wonder if whoever did the work ...they knew what they were doing (NOT implying anything) because I have come across so many Corvettes where the trailing arm bushing was not staked correctly or the actual shims were loose and I could move them by hand....or the hole in the bolt for the castle nut is not aligned up with the castleation in the nut and the cotter pin is not doing anything but be in the hole in the bolt...because the nut is too far away to let the cotter pin do its job.
DUB
Dub, is that trailing arm bolt 5/8" in diameter? If so, I believe the original GM part number is 125384. I have a couple of these nuts in my "mox-nix box", and one of them is still in the GM package. That is the number on the package.....
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 19,294
Likes: 2,753
From: Charlotte NC
I believe the bolt is a 7/16" I do know the head of the bolt takes a 5/8" socket or wrench..and the castle nut takes a 11/16' wrench or socket.....but the bolt is a 7/16".
I am aware that may suppliers sell what is given to them because they just do not care and feel it is not that big of a deal.
DUB
I am aware that may suppliers sell what is given to them because they just do not care and feel it is not that big of a deal.
DUB
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,164
Likes: 224
From: Pawleys Island, SC
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,335
Likes: 1,590
From: Western NY
I believe the bolt is a 7/16" I do know the head of the bolt takes a 5/8" socket or wrench..and the castle nut takes a 11/16' wrench or socket.....but the bolt is a 7/16".
I am aware that may suppliers sell what is given to them because they just do not care and feel it is not that big of a deal.
DUB
I am aware that may suppliers sell what is given to them because they just do not care and feel it is not that big of a deal.
DUB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,812
Likes: 2,029
From: eastern NC
The folks at Totally Stainless carry a wide variety of Stainless Steel fasteners; bolts, nuts, screws, machine and otherwise as well as complete kits for many popular vehicles. I know they have the bolts for the trailing arms, but I couldn't find them on their website.
I also know that they have SS fasteners that are stronger than grade 8 for almost any suspension component. Also, if they don't have it, they can almost always manufacture special bolts, studs etc. if you give them the specifications.
Great folks to deal with, but special orders can take a bit of time.
You can contact them at, 1-800-767-4781 or 717-677-8811
Good luck... GUSTO
I also know that they have SS fasteners that are stronger than grade 8 for almost any suspension component. Also, if they don't have it, they can almost always manufacture special bolts, studs etc. if you give them the specifications.
Great folks to deal with, but special orders can take a bit of time.
You can contact them at, 1-800-767-4781 or 717-677-8811
Good luck... GUSTO
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 8,837
Likes: 1,028
what i also do which may not matter is that when I do trailing arms..i get teh castle nut that is just like what GM used. I can tell in your photo that the castle nut is NOT like what GM used. You can see in yours that they tapered the outer area and did not keep the nut the same dimension from end to end.....like the castle nuts you have every were else on your front suspension components. When I look and see the nuts on the trailing arm that looks like that it start to set off bells in my head becasue I then have to wonder if whoever did the work ...they knew what they were doing
DUB