Some of this may look familiar because I've been asking questions on other people's threads. I want to make sure I get this job right the first time, but I don't want to hijack anyone's thread.

My heater core dumped a couple couple cups of coolant into my '72 convertible. Once a new core and seal kits from Paragon arrived, I ran into some other issues. The seal kit came with horrible directions and is missing at least one piece from the set. I will be returning the kit and picking one up from DocRebuild since I hear their kit comes with very detailed directions.

Here is a couple pics of the heater core from Paragon. Based on all the other threads I've read, I know good-fitting cores are hard to come by. The copper tubes don't sit right in the cradle and they spread out in opposite directions. Should I return the core or bend the tubes to try and make this work?




I'm also having issues with the flaps controlled by the vacuum lines. They don't work. I believe the vacuum actuator inside the heater box is working. When I close the flap going to the AC ducts and cover the inlet and outlet on the actuator, the door remains about 80% closed until I left my fingers, but it won't stay completely closed. So I know air from the heater core is escaping out that front flap (and I don't have the AC ducts installed). I haven't checked the actuator that controls the air going to the defroster, but it's on my list. What I am sure of is that the HVAC control on the console doesn't make anything move for the heat, AC, or vents. But I do know the fan controls work, so I guess that's something.

While I try to sort all this out, I picked up an inline connector to join the coolant lines so I can still go for a ride. I also have the heater box out of the car with a rag stuffed into the space wher the heater core pipes penetrate the firewall.

So now I'm trying to figure out my next move. I've lived without heat for the past 4 years, but the leaking core has opened up a bag of worms. I would like to have a functioning heater to extend the driving season and a working defroster might come in handy for early morning rides. At this time, I really don't care about AC since I have a convertible. My '72 is a base model. The paint is not the factory color, it's been in an accident, and I don't have matching numbers. It will never be a show car, but I don't care about that. I enjoy my driver for what it is.

With that said, would it be better to fix what I have, try to sort out the vacuum issues, and reseal everything, including the AC box, or convert over to a non-AC setup?

 

Have you looked at the Vintage Air setups? I hear good things about them. Still a lot of work, but at least you get an all new ac and heat setup.
Don't know if it would be easier to convert to a non-air setup. Hopefully someone else who's been through this will chime in.

 

Do the Vintage Air setups include heat? I thought it was only for AC.

 

I went to their site and read through the materials - they do provide both heating and cooling. Not much of the original system remains apparently. Hopefully someone who's already installed one will chime in here....

 

Look at this thread from Barrist - he just finished installing Vintage Air...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-on-storm.html

 

I just read through the whole thread. The Vintage Air set up looks clean and I really like the idea of not needing vacuum lines. If I had a coupe, I'd be all over this. But I have a convertible. Would I even be able to feel the AC with the top down?

 

LOL - probably not!

 

I wonder if a good radiator shop could take them and swap just the core.

 

You may want to check this out:

http://acdelete.com/pages/68-82_Y-Body.htm


Doesn't provide controls, but cleans up the firewall if you take out the AC.

 

I have been giving a lot of thought to the AC delete. I like the idea of using cables to adjust the vents instead of vacuum lines. I've been hesitant because I remember reading another thread where someone said it would cost about the same to redo the AC as it would to get all the right parts to do a full conversion to a non-AC interior. Is this true?

 

Going back to the heater core I picked up and posted in the pics above, do you guys think I should bend the copper pipes to make them go in the right direction or return the core and get one from another place?

 

You may want to take Big2Bird's advice and see if a shop will swap out the core. If nothing else, they may be able to bend the pipes for you without kinking them.

Hell, a good shop may be able to reliably repair your original so you could send that new one back too.

+1 on the DocRebuild seal kits. He excels at that and replacement vacuum hose kits.

 

I appreciate everyone's help. I googled a radiator shop and there is one nearby that I'm going to check out. If they can't fix my original core for a reasonable price, then hopefully they can bend the pipes of the new one I bought. Then, I'll buy a new seal kit from Doc Rebuild since his kit comes with the best directions.

After that, I'll have to figure out how to get the vacuum lines that control the heater box working properly. I know I have to go pick up a GM assembly manual. Will the manual show me how the vacuum lines are supposed to be run?

 

Have You looked at how the Hoses would run if You used the replacement Core with the Tubes the way they are ? There is always the chance that they are correct and the one that came out is not. Otherwise it should be pretty easy to bend the one line that looks to be headed the wrong way with a Tubing Bender. Only problem is there may not be enough room to get one in there. Some Copper Tube is very soft and easy to bend, and some is brittle and not. I would guess this is on the softer side. Filling the old Core with water and looking for the leak should tell You how hard it will be to fix.

 

So, I found a local radiator shop and was told my heater core is toast. I returned the core I picked up from Paragon because it didn't fit. I'm going to order a seal kit from DocRebuild since it looks as if the directions he provides are amazingly detailed. While I'm at it, I might as well buy a core from him, too.

Has anyone installed the AC delete box that gguillot mentioned above? If I go this route, should I buy the non-AC seal kit for the interior heater box and a tube of black 3M sealant for the box in the engine bay?

 

I am doing this same job this weekend. I ordered the seal kit from Doc, but he sells the same repop cores as everyone else. I lucked out and found a NOS GM MADE in USA unit on the bay.

I would still consider a recore of the old one.

 

When you say you're doing the same job, do you mean you're replacing the core and seals or are you also switching to the AC delete?

 

Replacing the core. The A/C blows cold. I would never delete it.

 

So, I've just gone from frustrated to pissed. I am on my fourth attempt at getting a heater core and I'm having no luck whatsoever. A company should not be allowed to claim they sell a part that fits when it clearly doesn't.

I started with Paragon. Their core, which is pictured in the beginning of this thread, came the closest to working. The core fit in the box securely, but the pipes would not sit in the cradle correctly. Corvette Pacifica sent me an aluminum core that didn't even come close to fitting properly. It was too small. Corvette Central is out of heater cores and their supplier is having manufacturing difficulties, so they don't know when they will get more in. Finally, the core below is from Mid America Motorworks and it won't fit in the box at all because the pipes are bent too close to the core.



Each company's rep has been respectful and have made the return process painless. However, this has been ridiculous. They should not be selling parts like this that don't fit exactly the way they're supposed to.

 

I just did mine. NOS GM, $65 shipped. E bay. Be patient. They are out there. I would have paid $200 to avoid the hastle.