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i just finished getting the body installed on my new (1975) chassis and it's a 1968 body. The ride height is one of the last problems I'm dealing with so I can get it aligned and on the road. Any suggestions as to why it's sitting so high? The rear spring was on the chassis when I got it and I think it's aftermarket. I have the original 1968 7 leaf and front springs, should I just put those in?
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you need longer bolts for the springs at the tires. My mono spring is level with the rim on the bottom. Yours is up at the disc. I would do that first. Cheap and easy.
I had 235 60 15 and they looked alot closer than that
Last edited by Rescue Rogers; 05-23-2017 at 08:03 AM.
There is no interior and no firewall, I can seen the engine looking through the interior, so the car hasnt been driven. You cannt make any determinations until the car is completed and has a full tank of gas and as been started, remove the shipping bands from the spring.
There is no interior and no firewall, I can seen the engine looking through the interior, so the car hasnt been driven. You cannt make any determinations until the car is completed and has a full tank of gas and as been stated, remove the shipping bands from the spring.
the second picture was just to show the rear spring. that was when the body was off!
In the read did you try 8" or 10" spring bolts and have you removed the straps from the rear spring?
In the front any chance you are using big block springs with a small block engine?
In the read did you try 8" or 10" spring bolts and have you removed the straps from the rear spring?
In the front any chance you are using big block springs with a small block engine?
haven't tried longer bolts but i will. the front springs could be big block springs... is there a way to tell?
yes ive driven it it and yes the picture is after it settled
Were the two pictures you posted, taken at different times....in that one was before the body was on the chassis, and one after the body was set in place? If so, that might be creating some confusion.
But you realize, don't you, that without a full interior, fully dressed out engine compartment, etc, your car is a few hundred pounds light. That WILL make a difference.
Originally Posted by Youngvettehunter
255/45/17 almost stock wheel diameter
No, the 255/17s are a full inch "shorter" that the OE tires. In reality, that will on one hand, raise the car a tad, but also at the same time, reduce the tire to fenderwell gap.
Were the two pictures you posted, taken at different times....in that one was before the body was on the chassis, and one after the body was set in place? If so, that might be creating some confusion.
But you realize, don't you, that without a full interior, fully dressed out engine compartment, etc, your car is a few hundred pounds light. That WILL make a difference.
No, the 255/17s are a full inch "shorter" that the OE tires. In reality, that will on one hand, raise the car a tad, but also at the same time, reduce the tire to fenderwell gap.
the pictures were taken at different times the car is fully back together now and has a half tank of gas in it. Every nut and bolt is back on the car. Should I just remove the front springs and cut them or is there a fixable problem? I will add the longer rear bolts but I don't think that's gonna get it 6-7inchs lower...
Where did you get those springs from? You mentioned reinstalling the 7-leaf. I thought the 7-leaf was a big block spring, your picture shows small block hood. When I took out the 9-leaf from my 69 to put a glass spring in it had no where the arch your spring has in it even when it was laying on the floor. Did you check the arch from your 7-leaf and compare it to the 9-leaf you installed. What pound ratting front springs did you install in the front. If your car sat lower with the 7-leaf just reinstall that one and if still to high use 10" bolts. T
the pictures were taken at different times the car is fully back together now and has a half tank of gas in it. Every nut and bolt is back on the car. Should I just remove the front springs and cut them or is there a fixable problem? I will add the longer rear bolts but I don't think that's gonna get it 6-7inchs lower...
How much of the suspension was disassembled, during this period of time? If you removed a-arms and/or trailing arms, then tightened everything up without a full load on the chassis, you might be encountering a "bind", which isn't allowing the suspension to properly settle. And again, is everything back on the car?
How much of the suspension was disassembled, during this period of time? If you removed a-arms and/or trailing arms, then tightened everything up without a full load on the chassis, you might be encountering a "bind", which isn't allowing the suspension to properly settle. And again, is everything back on the car?
the suspension was left alone besides the shocks. And as I said before it's all back together.
the suspension was left alone besides the shocks. And as I said before it's all back together.
Are you saying that you bought a "rolling chassis", that's a 1975 vintage, and set your '68 body on it? Just out of curiosity, what did you use for body mount cushions? Any chance that there were cushions stuck either to your body, or the frame, and you now have 2 sets of cushions, that the body is setting on?
Can you post a picture of the rear suspension, now that the body is on the chassis, so we can see how the suspension is sitting?
05-22-2017, 11:51 PM
1968 ride height problem
