Transgo Hiccup
#1
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2017
Location: Battle Ground Washington
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Transgo Hiccup
Hey guys (and gals)! Just picked up a 1978 Corvette. Seems to be all original except for a 600cfm Edel carb and exhaust. I just purchased the Transgo 1-2 shift kit. As many before me, I purchased the "pro kit"
(AKA no instructions needed because you need to know them already). Now I've read Jake's article on NastyZ28. I'm planning on drilling the 2 and 3 feed holes both .125". I'm wondering if this is an adequate size and if that is the only drilling needed? Once again, the motor is stock. It's my sunny day cruiser so I'm just looking for easy shifting but some tire chirp if I have to get on it. I do plan to tear it down this winter and bore it .030" over, run stock heads, Edelbrock Performer intake, summit longtubes, and their K1103 cam with flat top pistons. So nothing too major as far as adding power. I would like to know from those who have installed the kit if that is the only drilling required? Thanks for the input! And don't hesitate to add a topic link. I've googled everywhere and Jake's article is the only one I found.
(AKA no instructions needed because you need to know them already). Now I've read Jake's article on NastyZ28. I'm planning on drilling the 2 and 3 feed holes both .125". I'm wondering if this is an adequate size and if that is the only drilling needed? Once again, the motor is stock. It's my sunny day cruiser so I'm just looking for easy shifting but some tire chirp if I have to get on it. I do plan to tear it down this winter and bore it .030" over, run stock heads, Edelbrock Performer intake, summit longtubes, and their K1103 cam with flat top pistons. So nothing too major as far as adding power. I would like to know from those who have installed the kit if that is the only drilling required? Thanks for the input! And don't hesitate to add a topic link. I've googled everywhere and Jake's article is the only one I found.
#3
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2015
Location: shreveport Louisiana
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Received 15 Likes
on
8 Posts
I just did my th350 a couple weeks ago and I went to YouTube and just followed along with the video and it was easy. I also have a stock 350 with the exception of the 600 edelbrock and a performer intake and I decided to pot the "race only" spring in and I couldn't be more happy. It shifts smooth if just driving regularly but if you are getting down on it it will put you in the seat when it shifts(no chirp though).i didn't drill any holes but let me know how that works I might have to go back in there
Last edited by Danny.reamer; 05-24-2017 at 10:23 AM.
#4
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2017
Location: Battle Ground Washington
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All the youtube videos I found showed no drilling. I was told I'd be fine using the B&M instructions for drilling holes. Basically I just want to drill the 2nd and 3rd feed holes to .125". B&M states 3/16" but one of the techs at my shop said that might shift a little hard for just a street cruiser.
#5
Le Mans Master
I've used a bunch of Trans-Go shift kits in TH350's, 400's, 200-4r's and 700-R4's. The instructions that come with the kit have always seemed pretty well detailed and have never caused any problems.
#6
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2017
Location: Battle Ground Washington
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
any chance you could tell which holes you drill and how big? B&M says for street/strip, drill the 2nd and 3rd oil feed to 3/16" . For HD truck or towing drill the 2-3 accumulator feed 3/16".
#7
Le Mans Master
I'd drill them all to the HD/street/strip specs. Or level 3, what ever set of instructions came with your kit. I'm not at home so I don't have access to any of the paperwork if I kept any of it.
One of the things that kills automatics is slipping. You want all shifts as firm and solid as you can get them.
I'm not real big on B&M's kits. They were priced higher than the Trans-Go or "Mr. Transmission's Gil Younger" kits, and pretty much do the same thing.
One of the things that kills automatics is slipping. You want all shifts as firm and solid as you can get them.
I'm not real big on B&M's kits. They were priced higher than the Trans-Go or "Mr. Transmission's Gil Younger" kits, and pretty much do the same thing.
#8
6th Gear
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2017
Location: Battle Ground Washington
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'd drill them all to the HD/street/strip specs. Or level 3, what ever set of instructions came with your kit. I'm not at home so I don't have access to any of the paperwork if I kept any of it.
One of the things that kills automatics is slipping. You want all shifts as firm and solid as you can get them.
I'm not real big on B&M's kits. They were priced higher than the Trans-Go or "Mr. Transmission's Gil Younger" kits, and pretty much do the same thing.
One of the things that kills automatics is slipping. You want all shifts as firm and solid as you can get them.
I'm not real big on B&M's kits. They were priced higher than the Trans-Go or "Mr. Transmission's Gil Younger" kits, and pretty much do the same thing.
Last edited by SAmuscle; 05-29-2017 at 10:06 PM. Reason: Spelling