Choke and batt light
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Choke and batt light
Hi,
you guys were a great help last time and I need some again.
After I have done some work on the car (mostly interior) I started it up and got a choke light followed by a batt light. I checked the fuse that one is good. The batt is 12.6v and dropping slowly. It got to 12.2v
On the alternator batt terminal to ground its around 50v and sounds and run normally. In the batt compartment there is a black little box that has wires from underneath the voltage there is also around 50v but for some reason still only 12 over the batt. I think the two things are connected but I don't know if its the alternator, if there is a voltage regulator or if its the choke relay (ordered a new one today)
Hope someone can help
Kind regards
Tim
you guys were a great help last time and I need some again.
After I have done some work on the car (mostly interior) I started it up and got a choke light followed by a batt light. I checked the fuse that one is good. The batt is 12.6v and dropping slowly. It got to 12.2v
On the alternator batt terminal to ground its around 50v and sounds and run normally. In the batt compartment there is a black little box that has wires from underneath the voltage there is also around 50v but for some reason still only 12 over the batt. I think the two things are connected but I don't know if its the alternator, if there is a voltage regulator or if its the choke relay (ordered a new one today)
Hope someone can help
Kind regards
Tim
Last edited by Tim Wezelenburg; May 24, 2017 at 02:17 AM.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 567
Likes: 82
From: Auckland
I can say with certainty that it is not the choke relay.
I had both warning lights come on on my 81 and found it was a bad ground at the alternator. So you might find it's the same on yours (or some other ground). Check the connections at the junction block in the batter compartment as well. I wouldn't worry about the voltage too much until you find why the lights are coming on.
I had both warning lights come on on my 81 and found it was a bad ground at the alternator. So you might find it's the same on yours (or some other ground). Check the connections at the junction block in the batter compartment as well. I wouldn't worry about the voltage too much until you find why the lights are coming on.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
I can say with certainty that it is not the choke relay.
I had both warning lights come on on my 81 and found it was a bad ground at the alternator. So you might find it's the same on yours (or some other ground). Check the connections at the junction block in the batter compartment as well. I wouldn't worry about the voltage too much until you find why the lights are coming on.
I had both warning lights come on on my 81 and found it was a bad ground at the alternator. So you might find it's the same on yours (or some other ground). Check the connections at the junction block in the batter compartment as well. I wouldn't worry about the voltage too much until you find why the lights are coming on.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
I just tested it again today. On the battery terminal I have 12.1 v when running. When I go to the alternator and take bat + and ground on the engine block or alternator ground I get a steady but slowly dropping current at around 50v
I toke the alternator to autozone and it passed all the test.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 567
Likes: 82
From: Auckland
Hi
I just tested it again today. On the battery terminal I have 12.1 v when running. When I go to the alternator and take bat + and ground on the engine block or alternator ground I get a steady but slowly dropping current at around 50v
I toke the alternator to autozone and it passed all the test.
I just tested it again today. On the battery terminal I have 12.1 v when running. When I go to the alternator and take bat + and ground on the engine block or alternator ground I get a steady but slowly dropping current at around 50v
I toke the alternator to autozone and it passed all the test.
Test for voltage between the block and the frame, and the frame and the battery negative. Also check the voltage between Bat+ and the other red wire at the alternator, and between the Bat+ on the alternator and the junction block by the battery, and the junction block to the battery +.
If you find more than 0.2v between any of the connections, you'll need to clean that one, if it is a ground then it's best to clean them all.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Problem solved
This sounds more and more like a poor connection.
Test for voltage between the block and the frame, and the frame and the battery negative. Also check the voltage between Bat+ and the other red wire at the alternator, and between the Bat+ on the alternator and the junction block by the battery, and the junction block to the battery +.
If you find more than 0.2v between any of the connections, you'll need to clean that one, if it is a ground then it's best to clean them all.
Test for voltage between the block and the frame, and the frame and the battery negative. Also check the voltage between Bat+ and the other red wire at the alternator, and between the Bat+ on the alternator and the junction block by the battery, and the junction block to the battery +.
If you find more than 0.2v between any of the connections, you'll need to clean that one, if it is a ground then it's best to clean them all.
For everyone else when the alternator got connected to the battery the choke light disappeared along with the batt light.
