ddawson

Thanks to tracdogg2 for the great work.

Reinstalling that thing reminds me I need to work out more, or at least start working out LOL.

R6n350GT

Very Nice ! What diff is that?

SciVette

Just got my diff (rebuilt to 3.54 from 3.08) back from Mike recently as well. Starting the process of putting all back together. I won't go quite as far as you with the coil overs, etc., but am going to a fiberglass spring, QA1 shocks, heim-joint adjustable strut rods, etc.

Does your quick-jack always sit with one end up off the ground?

croaker

Wow. Does that thing rock much?

ddawson

It's on a forward slop so it's tilted a little forward. Engine is on the slop side as it doesn't happen when I pull in the garage.

Rock steady. I was kicking the crap out of the exhaust to get it back in place and it doesn't move.

SciVette

10-4; I love my quick-jack. Feels safe and solid and perfect for my low roof garage space.

ddawson

Well note to self, make sure to tighten your lug nuts. LOL

Good thing it was just around the block.

Crimson Thunder

Very nice. I'm surprised that you didn't upgrade to 30 spline axles behind that big block.

terrys6t8roadster

And I didn't think your 69 could get any better. T

ddawson

Thanks, I enjoy making an old car reliable.

As for the 30 spline, I wanted to be able to return back to stock if needed. I don't race or do burn outs and he built it for 500hp so I'll be fine.

bmans vette

Especially for 500hp.
Also notice that the ring gear bolts are just grade eights with lock washers...why not use ARPs there?
Very little posi polishing too.

Good luck with that baby.

Hope to have mine done in July. Shooting for 600hp so extra work like cryo and hardening of the inner axles, spiders, etc.
With a stick and 12" rear rims...now is not the time to go cheap.

Have fun.....

Big Block Dave

Really just looks beautiful. Nice work!

bmans vette

Was this just a rebuild that included the new billet cap and a tuned posi?
I have a 2nd differential that does not need a Super 10 build and trying to get ideas of work done, cost and HP it will handle.
Trying to see what the differences between this and a Super 10 build looks like.
Thanks for any info you can provide.

Bman

ddawson

Yes that's what I asked for. Stock tuned rebuild with a little extra.

I'm out of work so I couldn't go crazy. I figured the stock one lasted this long I would be fine.

bmans vette

Txs for the info.....a little beefier than stock......enjoy it.......

tracdogg2

Good questions, so I'll address them.

These stub axles will easily handle 500hp all day long. Why spend the extra money,
Yes they are new grade 8 ring gear bolts with grade 8 washers. Has anyone ever seen a ring gear bolt fail? If 1200 hp won't break these, I doubt 500 will.
As for polishing, first you have to understand the forces put on the carrier. Since the ring gear is offset to one side, the load on the carrier is torsional. Not lateral, not tension, not compression. A crack always needs a starting point, That's why you polish the edges. Polishing the inside and outside, though it may look pretty, does nothing more than weaken the entire unit and reduces its torsional strength.
Mike

Alex66

Wow! This is Beautifull!!!!

rosslato

That is one Drop Dead Gorgeous Vette you got there!

bmans vette

Thanks for the post Mike. A little confused by the ring bolts comment. You posted in another thread where the OP showed all the ring bolts snapped off. Wouldn't the extra strength of an ARP 200,000 psi vs an grade 8 at 150,000 psi and improved tolerances held the ring gear on better. Of course, loctite used on the cleaned threads would have helped also.
I follow your logic on not wasting money on the stub axles but ARP bolts are only $30....cheap insurance over mass produced grade 8 bolts and cheap lock washers.

My understanding on polishing the posi is to eliminate any ridges at the seams, not just a pretty polishing job. Same reason as for polishing the window edges.....no spots for a crack to occur.

Here is that other thread.....
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-locked-2.html

Txs Mike for your reply......


Can you post up a pic of one of your Super 10 builds inside? Thanks again.

tracdogg2

I haven't seen ring gear bolts snap off in 40 years. Referring to the other thread, that was caused by the ring gear bolts backing out and being sheared off when they hit the housing. Very common on 1976 diffs and a little less common on 1978. It's also a good reason why you should never use a ring gear spacer.
All oem carriers have casting defects where the sand molds were pressed together. This is where they always crack. Just grinding out the defect is sufficient to prevent cracking. Polishing just makes it a little smoother. Taking off too much metal creates new problems. The new eaton carriers have been redesigned in this area.
The two most common carriers are the 297 and the 117, 297 being more desirable. But there are also bad 297's since many molds were used for each. Polishing the ridge just to the right of the ring gear only weakens the carrier, nothing else. By the time you polished out every spec of sand casting, you would have a very weak unit. I do, however shot-peen the carrier and housing which relieves surface tension. And it makes it look pretty!
Mike