HI Dennis,
I didn't want to bomb you with a lot of emails this week so here is where I ended up tonight. The posi is tuned, although these spiders you supplied took a little more time to dial in. I had to fit them to the axles as there were some burrs on the spline, that was before I sent them out for cryo treating. The tune is good, as you will see on Tom's you-tube video. One thing to note with tuning is the spiders are not match machined/lapped like a ring and pinion set is. They were never intended to be set to tolerances closer then the stock spec of 001-008". What this means is very simply there will be variance through 360* rotation with them. That is why axle end play may vary a few thousands through 360* as well.

The 411 Tom's ring gear is installed. The mating surfaces were polished in the lathe and hand stoned before installing the new ring gear. I only use ARP ring gear bolts, in all my builds. This is another area where knock off artist cut corners and use the common kit fully threaded hex heads. For about $30 or so it makes no sense not to use them, other then boosting profit. These bolts were also cryo treated. I use Loctite #271 on the bolts, after cleaning them with Acetone. The last thing I did was radius the RG tooth edges. These are sharp and the ends have burrs. Now this isn't required but it's something I like to do. I have found new gear mesh cause noise from burrs or high spots on the edges.


Gary

 

finish install of RG

 

I'll post the 2nd batch later.

Wait until you see the video of it spinning freely with just a push by hand....AWESOME!

Bman (Dennis)

 

Cool Dennis, thanks for clarifying the cryro needs and for the cool tech thread! The questions were because I just like to learn about new stuff! I have heard of guys doing this treatment with the engine parts, but haven't read up on all of that yet! I think Tom's still offers some heat treating! I definitely will read up more on Cryro! Interesting process! I guess I have always been more of a Forged in Fire type of guy! Good TV show too! Probably my favorite at the moment!

Hey I saw you sold your 1480 kit??? I have 1350 Toms kit in the car now, but what on the trailing arm with the 1480 was hitting? Or are the 1480 axles just not designed to go into the stock Bearing housing supports?

I like the Mark Williams U-joints currently, as I think they are currently the best USA made units around!

I have the ARP bolts also (I think they are the 12 point heads, have to go look and count the head). In an old article on assembling these, it talked about the Bolt head clearance and the ARPs are very low profile heads! Also they aren't as long and pretty closely flush on the other side! With the interference fit of the pressed on gear ring and 12 bolts, I never thought to heat or cryro treat them! Your great builder takes no chances! The level of detail is impressive!

I also came up with my Series 4 case for the 12-Bolt conversion. Good ones aren't really just laying around, as in days past! I got a 1971 AC code (4.11) in perfect condition. Anyone shopping for these, watch for the mounting bolts holes being all stripped out! I looked at a couple more, and it was obvious that the internals from the past had grenaded! And one case was a Series 3, but stamped with a Series 4 stamping! Probably why it was getting sold! I couldn't let that kind of dishonestly go and had to tell the guy he was a creep! I hope he doesn't rip off the next guy and correctly represents it as a Series 3. Naturally he was also claiming it was a former L88 car that it came from! Guys just watch out, out there! The thieves are out there! Make sure you measure things, and not just trust people!

 

Hi Derek,
Txs for the comments and info.

I did sell the 1480 setup I had. It was not a complete setup anyway. The issue is not the bearing supports but the trailing arm housing not being wide enough for the 1/2 shafts mounting end. My friend Bill is going thru that challenge right now with his Ridetech trailing arms.
The 1480 is overkill for my project anyway. My hp goal is 600hp so the Super 10 as done by Gary Ramadei is definitely capable of handling what I will do with it.
And yes he does a super job along with teaching all of us neophytes. His attention to detail is amazing. Wait until you see the next batch of pics along with his narrative.

You are right to call out that guy. There are a few scammers out there that make it tough to trust online strangers. One we know just got kicked off for his shenanigans.

Good luck with your project(s).

Bman (Dennis)

 

Now its time to fit the end cap. As Gary points out it needs to "rock" when fitted so that when fully installed it holds the race in place.

From Gary..

HI Dennis,
Today I final fit the caps for 001" rock on both caps at each hole. What this means is simply the caps are fit at "rock" which means one end of the cap is flat against the pad and the other end is up.- like a kids seesaw. The gap at the high end is measured by feeler gauge drag at 001" so that when the cap is installed and parallel it will be 0005" and clinch the race to keep it from spinning under load. If there was no gap the race would spin, if there is more then 001-0015" then the clinch will be too tight and the bearing will burn up in use. I also do another little trick at final assembly to strengthen them up. This process is not new or something I came up with, it's been done for over 50 years if not more. There are other ways to fit the caps like boring them in place like the factory did but I like the method I use with a surface grinder. Final fit should not be done on a mill. Most factory caps are in this spec if they had not been swapped around or replaced. Your RH cap didn't require much to dial it in. The steel cap is a Tom's cap you supplied. They come in oversize for final fitment to each housing. I have been asked many times if I need to machine the housing pads and never had to. Now they will vary from one housing to another but I have never had pads off from LH to RH side in a housing and I have build a lot of them. The instructions that sometimes come with the caps explain to file fit the cap to the housing and to use a hand drill to drill the tap size holes. I never would recommend someone doing that, yes it can be done but the best way is to machine fit them. The test was a simple hand spin at full rotation and it was prefect as you can see in the video.

The bearings used are USA made Timkens, no sense in cutting corners here either. I believe Timken are still the best out there and all I use. The originals were Hyatt and later New Departure Hyatt (NDH)- now long gone.

Now I am going to radius the teeth of the new pinion and start to prepare it for patterning but I probably won't get to pattern them today.

Hope things are getting better.

 

Gary mates up the races to fit flush and then test spins the posi.

2 pics show the machining of the steel cap on his machinery

 

The spin test file is a large file video.
You need to open that separately in order to see it.
No sound though......

Enjoy!

The spin test is done with the caps fully torqued down to 100ft/lbs.

 

Some of the pics are out of sequence because they get sent as a batch. Gary puts a title for each pic but there is no way to show the title as the pic is all that gets downloaded.
If you are unsure of what the pic is showing, shoot me an inquiry and I'll look up the pic title.
Otherwise you can see how detailed the work is especially when it comes to checking fitment.
Txs for looking.

Dennis

 

Tip......the .001 "feeler gauge" is actually .001 shim stock.

 

Pretty cool to see the progress.

 

Just so I feel like I am contributing-- Without the plate and springs, to get the preload Tom's recommended starting with .045 of shims per side and add shims till it can barely be turned by hand.

I know for tuning these Posi units, he had a video on the procedure on line for anyone else.

I am sure Dennis's friend (Gary) knows all of this in his sleep!

I also have to go home and look, because the ring bolts I have are even lower profile than in Dennis/Gary's pictures I think! I will go get it off of the shelf and look.

Also the guy with the phony stamped Posi was in person face to face. I have a good bullshit meter, and something told me to measure the case! I would have never saw the guy again!

Those pilot bolts in the picture above are cool for alignment seating the ring gear!

 

People fainting and health!

I dont know the condition but sometimes people can be depleted of minerals like potassium etc. Might start with doubling up with a multi-vitamin and what I suggest next related to staying away from sugar and carbs, etc to not have body stay acidic and prone to health complications! Like with things like diabetes and cancer, etc. I had a big near death accident, as close as you can come and mega surgeries and metal holding me together and went from running marathons to overweight and health failing, and what I call organ failure bad breath (Keto acidosis). Before organs got too bad, worked off PH charts to try to go alkaline in my diet and I have come a long way in reversing all of the problems related to stamina. Faint headed, just two symptoms of many, and the organ complications, etc. Not fun stuff to eat avocados, spinach, raw everything like mushrooms, a lot of spices, 100% lemon concentrate (too lazy to squeeze that many lemons) in unsweetened water, etc, but 3-1/2 months of it and it did wonders! Pass this along, hope it helps others!

 

Why do I get the feeling that my "next" rear end will be a Super 10 built by Gary? I hope my current rear end gives me service long enough to do it "bigger" in the future. Thanks for sharing this Dennis, very informative and I am all in.

Best regards,

David

 

Unfortunately with a lot of this type of stuff, the one or two guys that have these parts and the know-how to machine and manufacture, if they retire it is all gone.

I have a lot of stuff like that, but the cool thing is that C2/C3 Unique Performance parts seem to be going through a Renaissance lately. The vintage is back. I think at this moment, there is a lot of cool stuff coming out!

It is a roll of the dice! Certain things that I wanted for my cars, I fought and saved for and had hoped to get prior to the discontinuation of a product line or take over and farming it out to the Chinese for manufacturing.

This thread is honest, and real old school American craftsmanship and precision machining, and "TLC" that is a dying thing, in this plug and play world.

 

I have spend some time with Gary and thought the same, that if anything happens to this guy, God forbid, we are all Sh*t out of luck. Gary does not only diff's, but 4 speeds, steering boxes, trailing arms/wheel bearings.....oh boy!

 

Just gotta say Ive never seen or heard any body blow there own horn on something as simple as these rear ends. Tuning? I dont think so lapping is the word.

 

Eh. There will always be someone else.

 

Hey not cool!

We were liking your thread and your workmanship, what you were doing, but it kind of ended! I have learned a few things from you guys, so I appreciate any mutual tech or build sharing!

 

This type of thread where Dennis is sharing from Gary how his build is going and is making him feel good about the money and care to his parts is appreciated! And might be the apprenticeship that leads to the next guy builder!