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The original strut rod bushings were actually made into the strut rod and not pressed in. The replacement strut bushings from GM and now in reproduction, had/have a metal sleeve around them so that they could be pressed in place. (show below)
Just a word to the wise, it's usually cheaper to purchase new strut rods vs. buying the bushings and installing them. (Or paying someone to install them).
I would stay away from the racing rod end ones, and the heim joint ones.(unless someone here on the forum has used them and can give good feedback?)
We have had some race cars at the shop, With 4-link rear suspension With those ends and they were pretty loud.....clanky sounding !
I did all black urethane in my restored 1970 And was pleased with the ride.
I just ordered new smart struts from Van Steele. They told me that the heim joint struts are great for track or autocross cars, however do require "proper maintenance" frequently. I'm not sure what that maintenance is however they recommended against them for a street driven car.
I just ordered new smart struts from Van Steele. They told me that the heim joint struts are great for track or autocross cars, however do require "proper maintenance" frequently. I'm not sure what that maintenance is however they recommended against them for a street driven car.
So far my adjustable strut rods have needed adjusting twice in just over a year. (Less than a thousand miles) That's also mean two alignments! I don't know why they did not double nut or put a bearing between the nut and strut so when the rod flexes it wouldn't undue the nut. If I could afford to do it over I would go with the heim joint because people on this forum say they stop the flex. Just yesterday I had the alignment shop drown the thing in red lock tight, we'll see how that goes. The adjustable rods gave me the best rear wheel alignment I've ever had as far as making both sides even, so I think it's worth finding a solution.
So far my adjustable strut rods have needed adjusting twice in just over a year. (Less than a thousand miles) That's also mean two alignments! I don't know why they did not double nut or put a bearing between the nut and strut so when the rod flexes it wouldn't undue the nut. If I could afford to do it over I would go with the heim joint because people on this forum say they stop the flex. Just yesterday I had the alignment shop drown the thing in red lock tight, we'll see how that goes. The adjustable rods gave me the best rear wheel alignment I've ever had as far as making both sides even, so I think it's worth finding a solution.
That's good that they are so adjustable because I use the 10" lowering bolts on my car too slam it to the ground