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What does it matter to you what kind of headers I buy? As far as I can tell so far hedman headers are the lowest cost headers and I have yet to see a set that comes unpainted. And even if the paint on them is no good it's no problem to repaint them with good paint. I'm not made out of money, I can't afford a thousand dollar set of headers. Now if you have a nice set of big dollar headers that you'll sell to me for the price of a set of new hedmans I'd be interested, if not then please stop polluting my thread...
I can't guarantee this advice would still be valid, but.......
About 30 years ago, I was involved with an oval track car. After we welded up the headers, we sandblasted them, then coated them with auto tranny fluid, and then fired up the car. The ATF smoked like crazy, for about 6-8 minutes, but once it stopped, the pipes stayed a flat gray color, and didn't rust.
I bought a set of hedman plain painted steel headers for my 69 because I couldn't find a used set at the time. The headers did technically fit the motor and chassis but you couldn't get a sheet of paper between them in places . I wasn't happy with that and heated them and dimpled them for a better fit . Unless I tell you that there is no way of seeing that this has been done . Any production type big tube header with a small 50 year old chassis is going to have this problem .
I bought a set of hedman plain painted steel headers for my 69 because I couldn't find a used set at the time. The headers did technically fit the motor and chassis but you couldn't get a sheet of paper between them in places . I wasn't happy with that and heated them and dimpled them for a better fit . Unless I tell you that there is no way of seeing that this has been done . Any production type big tube header with a small 50 year old chassis is going to have this problem .
You bring up a good point, before dimpling hearers, a person may want to consider installing new engine mount cushions, just to be sure.......
I've seen a lot of primaries "massaged" by using a baseball bat handle against the pipe, then whacking the wooden bat with a hammer. As long as you don't hit the coating directly, it'll be fine, I've never seen any flake off after doing it the way I described.
The Greek, I wish I could help you. I've bought a lot of headers in my many years of building/upgrading cars. All the way from the very inexpensive Blackjack, up what I have now, Hooker Super Comp.
I just put the Hookers on my 69 with a big block, and I installed Brodix heads, with ARP bolts. I had to clearance the header flange for the ARP bolts, of all things. It was easy, and they fit like a glove. I forgot to slide them in place when lowering the engine in, and thought I'd have to pull it back up, but those headers slipped right in from underneath. Color me all kinds of surprised. But, the down side is, they were about $700 for the ones I got, ceramic coated. But, they are so worth it to me. ZERO aggravation factor.
Good luck with finding exactly what you want
Last edited by USAFVeteran; Jun 26, 2017 at 06:44 PM.
Anybody with experience running Hedmanns like the ones Jim linked to? I'll need a set and that looks like a smokin' deal, I've had good success with Hedmann's ball-and-socket collector connector. I don't mind dimpling them if needed but I'm curious about ground clearance.
I have Hedmanns coated on my 72, 468 BB.
No issues, they mount easy from underneth with engine in place and no need for massage the pipes, have steeriods steering.
I recently bought the Hedman coated headers with the bell ends for my 71 LS5 and they went in easy. I did install new motor mounts and was sure the big block V shaped spacers were in place on top of the mounts. I did use better gaskets than what came with the headers, I used Remflex 2036 and they are great. Only tight place was the top idler arm mounting bolt, I flipped it around so the nut was on the outside of the frame and then no clearance issues at all. Hardest part for me was fabricating the pipes from the headers to the new Flowmaster stainless exhaust system. It was all worth it in the end though, sweet exhaust system.
What about "shorty" headers, has anybody here used them? When I search on eBay for big block Vette headers a lot of different shorty headers come up and the prices seem pretty reasonable. Are they any good? If so which ones fit the best?
I've been considering shorty headers as well. I've read several articles that say they eliminate any ground clearance issues, however there have been some people who still had issues with steering box clearance and plug clearance. Most people were not pleased with the limited or no measurable performance gains.
I've run hooker headers on many vehicles throughout the years and never had clearance issues. Most of the time it took a lot of patience to get them properly lined up so they cleared everything, but I never had to dimple anything. Spark plug access has always been an issue.
The most important thing to be aware of is making certain you order the correct header for your car, including all and any options ie power steering, ac, etc. Any modifications made to your car can drastically create fitment issues.
Tubing size is important. Bigger isn't always better. I think we've all heard that somewhere.
I've always ordered new, and factory direct, working with their tech services dept.
If you buy used, you don't really know what you are getting and if they will actually fit your car.
If you can afford to buy new headman, then go new but contact their tech dept to make sure they will fit your car before you purchase.
At this point I'm looking at both Hooker and Headman.
And that's my .04 cents.
Good luck