L88 now overheating
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Eustis ( Area 51 Bat Cave ) Fl
i couldnt own a real l88 as i wouldnt like that radical an engine for my street car,
However, dont you agree the only way to form accurate opinions and give helpful advice is to know what the person actually has,
Look how many trouble shot an l88 which is set up differently than other factory bbs,
I have to disagree that a bb in general is harder to cool than a sb,
Just depends on the build of the engine and cooling systems.
Last edited by The13Bats; Jun 27, 2017 at 06:36 PM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 56
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From: Athens, Greece
In several recent posts, I have been praising the Stewart water pump.
My original LS4 would run 200/210 on a hot summer day.
My new(er) 454 wont even come close to 200. Its a stock gauge, and I'll guess to say that it runs 180. The engine, aluminum intake, and stewart water pump are the only difference... every other component is the same. Even recycled the same thermostat.
Im sure my overdrive also helps, but that doesn't really get used much around town. Im crediting the pump with this win.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/ind...&product_id=79
For some reason this is 65-70
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/ind...&product_id=74
My original LS4 would run 200/210 on a hot summer day.
My new(er) 454 wont even come close to 200. Its a stock gauge, and I'll guess to say that it runs 180. The engine, aluminum intake, and stewart water pump are the only difference... every other component is the same. Even recycled the same thermostat.
Im sure my overdrive also helps, but that doesn't really get used much around town. Im crediting the pump with this win.
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/ind...&product_id=79
For some reason this is 65-70
http://www.stewartcomponents.com/ind...&product_id=74
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 56
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From: Athens, Greece
Thanks ddawson, both are on my list, first I wanted to enquire as to the 7 blade fan and the hi-flow pumps and it appears from the answers I got that I will probably import and install them.
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Athens, Greece
http://www.haydenauto.com/upload/Hay...TS_6980012.pdf
They have both Heavy and Severe duty clutches and will contact them ! Again thanks
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 56
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From: Athens, Greece
Had you read back, I wrote 'my L88" and while I was referring to my engine only, you and many others assumed I had an original L88 car. Sorry about that, 'culpa mea', I went for a short post and English is not my native language.
Nevertheless, before becoming a judge and offending others, you should have read more carefully my subsequent post, where I briefly clarified:
QUOTE
...Thank you all for your kind interest! The Vette and I go back to ’68 when I brought it over here with a 327ci 350hp small block; soon after that I got into car racing and ended changing engines and a whole bunch of racing stuff, I was younger then !
UNQUOTE
FYI, allow me to note that besides the Vette that I intentionally modified in order to compete with, back then, I still own and maintain myself the following Classics, ALL 100% ORIGINAL and in working, driveable condition.
1936 CORD 810 Phaeton
1950 ****** M38 Military
1954 Mercury Monterey
1973 Mercedes
Finally, for the record pls note that while racing I held the 1973 Track Racing Championship here in Greece with a Porche 911 RSR
Now, how about the apology?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: home
Is the radiator sealed so that all the air going into the grilles and goes through the radiator, not around it, above it, or below it? Nothing blocking airflow into the grilles? I have no cooling issues with my 427. It has the stock fan and clutch, a 160* stat with a 1/8" hole drilled in the flange, DeWitts radiator, 10% antifreeze, and a bottle of water wetter. Only have the DeWitts because the original radiator got a stone hole in the core and didn't trust fixing a 45 year old rad. No complaints with the DeWitts radiator. and fit without any issues.
Last edited by 3X2; Jun 29, 2017 at 05:49 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
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From: Brighton
that is not an aluminum radiator. someone just put the AL sticker on it.
When you start out the story that you have an L88, we all instantly assume that you have the original aluminum radiator and no fan shroud. That throws everyone completely off the trail and you get a lot of wrong answers to your problem.
Start with better engine pics, and that it is not an L88 and we can diagnose the problem better.
BTW - changing to a thermostat with holes drilled in it is not the solution.
I put my money on 40+ years of rust and crust in the radiator causing flow and heat transfer issues.
Bigredbrad
When you start out the story that you have an L88, we all instantly assume that you have the original aluminum radiator and no fan shroud. That throws everyone completely off the trail and you get a lot of wrong answers to your problem.
Start with better engine pics, and that it is not an L88 and we can diagnose the problem better.
BTW - changing to a thermostat with holes drilled in it is not the solution.
I put my money on 40+ years of rust and crust in the radiator causing flow and heat transfer issues.
Bigredbrad
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Athens, Greece
Is the radiator sealed so that all the air going into the grilles and goes through the radiator, not around it, above it, or below it? Nothing blocking airflow into the grilles? I have no cooling issues with my 427. It has the stock fan and clutch, a 160* stat with a 1/8" hole drilled in the flange, DeWitts radiator, 10% antifreeze, and a bottle of water wetter. Only have the DeWitts because the original radiator got a stone hole in the core and didn't trust fixing a 45 year old rad. No complaints with the DeWitts radiator. and fit without any issues.
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Brett Foote
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 4,367
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From: FL
Thanks for your suggestions, will check them all. Importing a radiator to Europe is the most expensive so it will be the last step. As suggested from this discussion, I will start with a new 160 stat and a heavy duty clutch that I have tampered with anyway. While at it I'll check the pump and go for a high flow one if it is bad, or if it still overheats. Next will come the radiator professional cleaning, before going for a new one.
You can move all the air and water in the world, but if the radiator won't transfer heat from the coolant to the air, nothing will solve your problem.
I'm well aware of shipping expenses to Europe and much of the world, and it is outrageous. I was going to ship an aluminum Z28 driveshaft to a guy east of Africa and the shipping was going to be nearly $600 US.
Hopefully, you can find someone coming back from Disney World and they can put one in checked baggage for the extra fee. Far cheaper, sadly.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
dont dump money in an old radiator metal doesnt last forver
is there a radiator shop that if you give them your old one can work with those dimensions and build you a better one?
Nothing like brand new cooling parts.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
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From: Western NY
I was thinking the same thing. Last I knew, cars in Europe also have radiators, and if the OP's Corvette end tanks are good, all that's needed is a new core. I would think that some of the V-8 powered Benzes or Jags, or maybe a large truck, would have a core that's similar in size, to a 'Vette's. I understand the import costs for replacement parts can be horrific, so sometimes you need to get "creative"...
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Athens, Greece
Thanks guys, there are radiator shops here and yes, I will take the old one there, but once it's out, i will also look into the pump, never checked either all those years, and the stat too along with the clutch.
But all will have to wait for cooler times, we have a heat wave here and I'm still doing things on my own
But all will have to wait for cooler times, we have a heat wave here and I'm still doing things on my own
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,438
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From: Western NY
Thanks guys, there are radiator shops here and yes, I will take the old one there, but once it's out, i will also look into the pump, never checked either all those years, and the stat too along with the clutch.
But all will have to wait for cooler times, we have a heat wave here and I'm still doing things on my own
But all will have to wait for cooler times, we have a heat wave here and I'm still doing things on my own
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Timing and points servicing?
Put a solid fan clutch in there or one that turns on around 180 F. Then put a thermostat thats around 170-180 drill holes in the thermostat. Sometimes those fan clutches get old and they keep slipping when they should come on. Nice thing about a solid clutch is that it'll keep a pretty consistant temp because its all controlled by the thermostat at that point.
Your block could be gunked up with rust too around the cylinders, seems to happen with old chevys. Sometimes a good solid chem flush can dislodge the **** and it'll stay cool again if it all comes out.
Put a solid fan clutch in there or one that turns on around 180 F. Then put a thermostat thats around 170-180 drill holes in the thermostat. Sometimes those fan clutches get old and they keep slipping when they should come on. Nice thing about a solid clutch is that it'll keep a pretty consistant temp because its all controlled by the thermostat at that point.
Your block could be gunked up with rust too around the cylinders, seems to happen with old chevys. Sometimes a good solid chem flush can dislodge the **** and it'll stay cool again if it all comes out.
Le Mans Master
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