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I just bought an awesome 68 454, M-20 and I love it.
This morning when I tried to take it out it suddenly started acting weird.
I put it in reverse and backed out no problem.
When I tried to go to 1st, it acted like the E-brake is on.
When the clutch is engaged, it rolls freely
When I put it into any gear it acts like the E-brake is on (which it is not because it rolls freely with the clutch in)
When it is in neutral and I let the clutch out it dies like it is in gear.
It has always been hard to get into reverse (getting the shifter into the position) but this is very new and now my baby is stranded across the street.
This has happened a bunch. Your linkage did not shift the gear out of reverse. So you are in a forward gear and reverse at the same time.
Easy fix. Reach under the car and the last shifting lever is reverse. Move it out of the position it is in. I forgot if that is to the front or to the back.
That will solve it till it happens again. You need to tighten your linkage up so this doesn't happen again.
That was a nasty trick to play on people. My friend asked me how to do it because his X girlfriend was at the movies with her new boyfriend.
I also saw the effects of giving it the gas and letting the clutch out. That will break the trans case at the reverse idler.
We're missing something-- If the trans is in 2 gears at the same time the output shaft will be locked- clutch will make no difference in or out. I agree it sounds like an adjustment problem, and that's an easy fix as stated above. And that's what I'd check/try first.
This has happened a bunch. Your linkage did not shift the gear out of reverse. So you are in a forward gear and reverse at the same time.
Easy fix. Reach under the car and the last shifting lever is reverse. Move it out of the position it is in. I forgot if that is to the front or to the back.
That will solve it till it happens again. You need to tighten your linkage up so this doesn't happen again.
That was a nasty trick to play on people. My friend asked me how to do it because his X girlfriend was at the movies with her new boyfriend.
I also saw the effects of giving it the gas and letting the clutch out. That will break the trans case at the reverse idler.
Dom
You were exactly right.
It was indeed stuck in reverse.
I got underneath and manually moved it out and it shifts fine now.
Now I just need to figure out what to do to keep it from happening again.
I'm going to need reverse sooner or later and don't want to get stuck again!
We're missing something-- If the trans is in 2 gears at the same time the output shaft will be locked- clutch will make no difference in or out. I agree it sounds like an adjustment problem, and that's an easy fix as stated above. And that's what I'd check/try first.
I should have been more specific.
OUT of gear with the clutch in, it would roll.
As soon as I put it into 1st, even with the clutch in, it would not roll.
My custom 66 had a hurst shifter and it was tricky then one day did like yours,
I did the fix you did and hit my buddy at the speed shop he gave me oil lite bushing for the linkage and how to adjust the rods.
It shifted sweet after that better than the stock shifters,
A bunch of us have had issue with the reverse lock out cable. I would....
1. Temporarily disconnect the cable.
2. Spray the heck out of the linkage with your preferred spray lube
3. Make sure the shifter is properly tightened down the frame.
4. Properly adjust the linkage....its not difficult
5. If none of that works rebuilt/shim the shifter...not difficult
Some of the vendors have rebuild kits for the stock shifter. Over time the levers get worn and will let you get into what you think is neutral but is really still in gear. Then you try to get another gear and get locked up. And Hurst makes a great shifter, and you can get a stick that looks like the factory put it there.
A bunch of us have had issue with the reverse lock out cable. I would....
1. Temporarily disconnect the cable.
2. Spray the heck out of the linkage with your preferred spray lube
3. Make sure the shifter is properly tightened down the frame.
4. Properly adjust the linkage....its not difficult
5. If none of that works rebuilt/shim the shifter...not difficult
Awesome.
Thanks Guys.
I have to say it was tighter than I expected when I got up in there.
On #1 above when you say the cable, do you mean the connection to the reverse arm going into the trans? Mine looks more like a rod than a cable.
First, the reverse lockout cable is a anti-theft device. It goes from the reverse linkage at the trans up the the steering column at the firewall. What it does is lock the transmission in reverse when you remove the key. If you can remove your key without having to first shift into reverse then the cable is disconnected or missing.
I'd think about rebuilding your shifter. Mine was worn out and had some problems shifting smoothly when I bought my car. When I had the drive train out I rebuilt it using a vendor kid. It was easy and help a lot. You'll have to make or buy an alignment tool to adjust the shifter rods correctly. That can be a pain to get the tool installed with the shifter in place as it's hard to get to. Not impossible just a PITA.
You might want to adjust to the short throw holes. Look at the shifter arms attached to the trans. If you see two sets of hole on them then you can set it up for short throw. Makes a big difference.
First, the reverse lockout cable is a anti-theft device. It goes from the reverse linkage at the trans up the the steering column at the firewall. What it does is lock the transmission in reverse when you remove the key. If you can remove your key without having to first shift into reverse then the cable is disconnected or missing.
Looking through the 68 assembly manual, I don't think the 68 had that cable. My key is on the dash (as I understand it, they moved it to the column in 69 for anti-theft reasons).
Looking through the 68 assembly manual, I don't think the 68 had that cable. My key is on the dash (as I understand it, they moved it to the column in 69 for anti-theft reasons).
You're right. I always forget how different the '68 was to the other chrome bumper cars. Since that's the case I suggest rebuilding your shifter and setting up up properly. I'm sure it's probably due.
You're right. I always forget how different the '68 was to the other chrome bumper cars. Since that's the case I suggest rebuilding your shifter and setting up up properly. I'm sure it's probably due.
Can I do that without pulling the trans out?
I haven't explored it yet. Hoping I can go in from the top for most of it.
The shifter mounts to the crossmember so you'll have to make the dive. One of the faults of the factory shifter. Things get a little worn, the trans moves with torque and vibration, but the shifter is mounted to the frame. And yes, it will come out without removing the trans. Not fun, but it will come out. You'll need to access both top and bottom.
C3 4-speed shifting issues - Need help
Since that's the case I suggest rebuilding your shifter and setting up up properly. I'm sure it's probably due.
