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Brakes locking up

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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 01:21 PM
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Default Brakes locking up

Hey guys,

Since replacing my brake booster I've noticed that after a short drive my brakes start to lockup. The only way to get moving again is to open the bleeder valve on the master cylinder.

Does anyone have any idea what might be the cause of my problem?

Thanks!
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 02:28 PM
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Either the brake hoses are old/collapsing inside, or the M/C is not releasing all the way, which can be too long a push rod/adjustment.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Big2Bird
Either the brake hoses are old/collapsing inside, or the M/C is not releasing all the way, which can be too long a push rod/adjustment.

That's what I suspected. All the hoses are new so it must be the push rod. I guess I have to pull the M/C to adjust the rod right? And how far should it extend once I have access to it?
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 03:19 PM
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Seems to me you could try shimming it first.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 03:25 PM
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Just did this job less than a year ago. You need a shorter rod between the MC and the booster.
Same thing happened to me. I used longer rod that came with the new booster,
2 miles down the road, the brakes were probably at 30% applied, I crippled her back home at 10 mph, as to not burn up the rotors. Replaced the rod with original shorter one and that solved the problem. It doesnt take much, 1/8" can make a difference.
You can also unscrew the MC from the booster and that will back the pressure off if your stranded.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebelrob
Just did this job less than a year ago. You need a shorter rod between the MC and the booster.
Same thing happened to me. I used longer rod that came with the new booster,
2 miles down the road, the brakes were probably at 30% applied, I crippled her back home at 10 mph, as to not burn up the rotors. Replaced the rod with original shorter one and that solved the problem. It doesnt take much, 1/8" can make a difference.
You can also unscrew the MC from the booster and that will back the pressure off if your stranded.
Dang, the original is long gone. Do you know if I can order one from a corvette supply store?
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 05:14 PM
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Problem solved. I moved the pin inward about 50%.


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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 05:37 PM
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If your 'rod' is too long (never been a problem of mine), then you just need to shorten what you presently have. Remove the M/C (no need to take the lines off) and remove the rod. Use the 'depth' probe on your dial caliper to measure the depth of the recess on the M/C and on the booster [selecting appropriate surfaces to measure from].

Using those numbers (and any other dimensions from the booster or M/C that you need to calculate the total space available for the rod, once the assembly is put together), cut the rod to slightly less than that length (.005" to .010" clearance would be good). You do NOT want that rod to be longer than the space where it is to fit.

Note: the ends of the rod may need to be rounded to fit into a rounded recess. Evaluate as necessary.

Last edited by 7T1vette; Jul 9, 2017 at 05:39 PM.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by ONeill202
Problem solved. I moved the pin inward about 50%.


The pedal, fully depressed needs to still have a 1/3 reserve. Be careful how much you adjust for.
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 10:19 AM
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If the M/C actuating rod is the correct length, it should have nothing to do with pedal travel.
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
If the M/C actuating rod is the correct length, it should have nothing to do with pedal travel.
Reread post #7
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 04:00 PM
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Oops! my mistake
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