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Its a waste of time and money routing wires back and forth to the battery.
Run a 6awg from the alternator stud to a terminal block in the engine compartment. Then run another 6awg from the terminal block to the starter solenoid.
Put a 10awg fusible link on the wire at the starter.
There is an original going to the solenoid that you remove. I believe the horn relay is the junction point so probably take it from the solenoid and move it to the new junction block.
Change the ammeter to a voltmeter.
Doing the same here. My 68 alt charge wire goes to horn relay and then from horn relay to starter solenoid. I would think you would leave the wire from horn relay to starter solenoid so that relay gets powered up through the post on the starter solenoid, and the new alternator charge wire (6 or 8 ga.) would go from the alternator to the bus bar to the starter solenoid. Then power up the electrical cooling fan from the bus bar. In essence, new alternator wire is bypassing the horn relay/bus bar. There doesn't seem to be a need to replace the 10 ga. wire from the solenoid to the horn relay since there is no big draw hooked up to the relay, at least in my case, non A/C, no big stereo, just a base 68 with an electric cooling fan, and possibly later using a relay to power up the headlights so they are a little brighter. Am I close to understanding this or am I missing something?
There are multiple ways you can do it. Moving the existing wire from the solenoid to the new junction block removes one of the wires running to the solenoid and provides a shorter power path to the existing wiring.