Tripower center carb float adjustment question
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 35
From: Michigan
Tripower center carb float adjustment question
Center carb float was not showing any fuel rocking car through the inspection hole. I think I'm supposed to have a level of + or - 1/32 correct? My book says to turn screw counter clockwise 1/6 turn per 1/32 of level. But after several attempts I've lost my original setting and I need some help with how to set the float level from scratch. Plus I've destroyed the 2 leather gaskets on the nut and screw..
Thanks all,
Jim
Thanks all,
Jim
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,415
Likes: 154
Center carb float was not showing any fuel rocking car through the inspection hole. I think I'm supposed to have a level of + or - 1/32 correct? My book says to turn screw counter clockwise 1/6 turn per 1/32 of level. But after several attempts I've lost my original setting and I need some help with how to set the float level from scratch. Plus I've destroyed the 2 leather gaskets on the nut and screw..
Thanks all,
Jim
Thanks all,
Jim
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 35
From: Michigan
What if I can't get the nut on any more? It's flush with the top of the carb..I got it backwards and was turning the lock screw to adjust carb.
Last edited by Jims427400; Jul 17, 2017 at 08:18 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Take a small needle nose pliers and gently grab the top of the needle and seat and back it out (UP) until you can get the nut on and back it out some. Typically the top of the brass is about the same level as the thickness of the nut.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,415
Likes: 154
just using the nut without a gasket should allow you to turn it back out. if not find a small screwdriver that will wedge into the threaded hole and turn it out using the screwdriver
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 35
From: Michigan
Update:
I tried grabbing needle with pliers and can't get brass to come up enough to get threads to catch. And worried I'll damage threads if I get too aggressive. Any other ideas to get needle up enough to catch it? Does the needle thread up or just raise up with the adjustment nut?
I tried grabbing needle with pliers and can't get brass to come up enough to get threads to catch. And worried I'll damage threads if I get too aggressive. Any other ideas to get needle up enough to catch it? Does the needle thread up or just raise up with the adjustment nut?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
The nut raises and lowers the complete assembly. The threads on the OD of the needle and seat is where the adjustment comes from. The internal threads are for the locking screw. There are a couple of O-rings on the assembly, to help seal it. You should be able to get just a needle and seat with the O-rings from your local parts store- a Holley needle and seat, there are not many options- couple of different sizes and one for alcohol and one for gas. If all else fails, stick an easy out in it and wind it out, then replace the whole thing. Be easier than pulling all 3 carbs to just replace that one thing.
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 488
Likes: 43
From: Vancouver British Columbia
Hi Jim,
Just so we understand, the lock nut, the screw and the two gaskets are all removed right now and the needle valve has been accidentally screwed in too deep to get pliers on the edge to unscrew it back out of the bowl?
If this is correct, you will likely have to remove the float bowl which as you know takes some time on the tri power as I have always removed my front carb to access the middle bowl. (not sure if this is required but this is what I have always done as room is pretty tight)
If you can back the needle valve back out enough by grabbing it with needle nose pliers, mine has about 3-4 threads exposed before putting the nut and lock screw on. This should get you in the ball park so you can set it properly when running.
I just went through this recently and I can tell you one thing for certain. Make absolutely sure that your gas tank and gas are cleaned. As you know, the tripower has no inline filter, just the tank filter sock and the bass filters at the carbs. Mine was repeatedly flooding as old rust and grit make it from my 50 year old fuel tank, somehow through the sock in the gas tank and into carb needle valve causing it to stick in the down position and flood my engine. I finally solved that problem by removing gas tank and removing all rust and deposits.
Good luck. Pete
Just so we understand, the lock nut, the screw and the two gaskets are all removed right now and the needle valve has been accidentally screwed in too deep to get pliers on the edge to unscrew it back out of the bowl?
If this is correct, you will likely have to remove the float bowl which as you know takes some time on the tri power as I have always removed my front carb to access the middle bowl. (not sure if this is required but this is what I have always done as room is pretty tight)
If you can back the needle valve back out enough by grabbing it with needle nose pliers, mine has about 3-4 threads exposed before putting the nut and lock screw on. This should get you in the ball park so you can set it properly when running.
I just went through this recently and I can tell you one thing for certain. Make absolutely sure that your gas tank and gas are cleaned. As you know, the tripower has no inline filter, just the tank filter sock and the bass filters at the carbs. Mine was repeatedly flooding as old rust and grit make it from my 50 year old fuel tank, somehow through the sock in the gas tank and into carb needle valve causing it to stick in the down position and flood my engine. I finally solved that problem by removing gas tank and removing all rust and deposits.
Good luck. Pete
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,415
Likes: 154
Update:
I tried grabbing needle with pliers and can't get brass to come up enough to get threads to catch. And worried I'll damage threads if I get too aggressive. Any other ideas to get needle up enough to catch it? Does the needle thread up or just raise up with the adjustment nut?
I tried grabbing needle with pliers and can't get brass to come up enough to get threads to catch. And worried I'll damage threads if I get too aggressive. Any other ideas to get needle up enough to catch it? Does the needle thread up or just raise up with the adjustment nut?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 444
Likes: 35
From: Michigan
I used a small set of hemostats that I had and was able to get that down into the flats. Turned it enough to get it threaded up to get nut on it. Used a set of hollow punches to make a new gasket cause I messed up the first one. And then realized I left key turned on all night so my NEW battery is dead..
Do I need a gasket under the nut and a gasket between top of nut and lock screw?
Thanks all..
And yes I turned the nut in the wrong direction. Got that figured out now.
Do I need a gasket under the nut and a gasket between top of nut and lock screw?
Thanks all..
And yes I turned the nut in the wrong direction. Got that figured out now.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 767
Likes: 74
From: Blaine MN
yes you need both, tri-powers are cool when they're working and not leaking 
I would recommend buying the correct gaskets, it'll save headaches in the long run.
Have fun and keep a fire extinguisher handy (not joking)
I haven't had to use mine but I keep it close by when working on the carbs (20# CO2 so I don't get crap in the engine)
I would recommend buying the correct gaskets, it'll save headaches in the long run.
Have fun and keep a fire extinguisher handy (not joking)
I haven't had to use mine but I keep it close by when working on the carbs (20# CO2 so I don't get crap in the engine)