Ok, I've tried to go through the threads on this topic but still have a few questions.

I have a 1969 Conv with 350/350 manual brakes. Brakes are terrible but really old. Decided to upgrade, purchased willwood calipers all around with drilled/slotted rotors with a OEM power booster/MS.

1 - Do I need some type of bracket to go to the firewall?
2 - Understand I need different brakes lines and bracket for stop light switch
3 - It looks like I need to drill holes where old MS mounted. Do I drill top or bottom or both....is there a template to match my conversion? Have already removed bolts/studs.

Thanks for any help offered.....

Rangepony

 

It is not an easy job (do a search in the forum), but can be done with some bloddy knuckles

1) No, brake pedal box on the rear of firewall will be used
2) yes (cant remember whats about the brake light siwtch, but I guess yes)
3) see pic, you extend the upper holes (determined by the brake pedal box)

 

If you search the old threads you'll find a thread where I did a step by step.... This is probably the easiest upgrade you can do.

I did this write up somewhere around March of this year and again in 2008. Hope it helps.

Keep in mind; I’m doing this from memory so if anyone wants to add to this feel free!

You will need both the power brake booster and a new master cylinder. Power brake and standard brake master cylinders are different.

The cars with standard brakes have two studs on the firewall; you will need to knock these out of the firewall (they will fall inside the car).

Then using the two upper holes from the studs as a guide, mark the lower holes and drill them for the lower booster holes.

Once you do this, you’ll need to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the rod from the power brake booster. Yes it bolts to a different position on the pedal but doing this is real easy. If you look under your dash you’ll see a round hole on a non power brake car. On a power brake car it was egg looking. The inside reinforcement can be used as a template since it was used on both cars it has the egg look so just follow this when cutting, if you look under the dash you’ll see what portion of the fiberglass you’ll need to remove.

The standard brake and power brake lamp switch bracket were different, the power brake one is now available new. http://willcoxcorvette.com/product_i...ducts_id=12540

Hope this helps, I used to have a detailed sheet somewhere on this when we did a conversion many. .. Many years ago. If I can find this I’ll post it for you.

18243




Willcox Inc.

 

Many thanks...particularly for the picture.......I had two responses and they are different as to which holes to drill. Have you installed your unit and does it work ok?

 

Many thanks...particularly for the picture.......I had two responses and they are different as to which holes to drill. When I cut the center hole I will be able to see which holes (upper or lower) look right.

 

In your diagram it states that the lower nuts need to be removed...why is that is the case if you need to drill new holes anyway?

 

Yes, it worked perfectly for me (69 BB).




New (power) brake lines also fit perfectly

 

Cool.....again, many thanks for the pictures!

 

you are very welcome, do not hestitate if you need some more....

 

I have just converted my '69 with a JEGS booster kit. It was not as difficult as several forums made it out to be. Some useful notes as follows: Trim out the egg shaped firewall hole using a hacksaw blade and half round file. 2. You can do much of the disassembly of the clevis and pin, and the new brake light bracket through this hole. Much like a gynae! Use a plank to jam the pedal against the firewall for better access 3. To get the pin out make up a threaded hook device and a cross plate. With the pin pushed as far as it can to the passenger side place the hook around the exposed pin and 'winch' it out. Comes out easily with no damage. 4. I could not get one of the top booster nuts onto the stud inside the firewall. Impossible to get in there without stripping the dash out. The rest of the assembly was easy. Brake pedal is now positioned closer to firewall and about 1" higher than the gas pedal. The clutch pedal is still in the original position about 2" above the brake pedal.

 

 

 

I would also recommend locating a back-up longer clevis before you do the mod. I unfortunately Loctited the JEGS clevis onto the booster, and did the full assembly. The brakes work great now, but the pedal height is almost down near the gas pedal. I could do with it being around 1" higher. A longer clevis would have sorted that.

 

My 6t8 [manual brakes] was upgraded to Wilwood aluminum caliphers, Wilwood drilled/slotted rotors 1" Wilwood master cylinder and proportioning valve with braided flex lines, Using Hawk pads, it stops better than my 69 power brake coupe. The only upgrade to the 69 brakes is slotted rotors and Hawk pads. T

 

1. No bracket needed , alreadt there just need to cut some ffberglass on engine side to egg shape hole for the new booster
2. Yes you need double flared tubing to go to front and rear brakes
3. You need to drill out both top and bottom to suit booster stud patten which comes with gasket as templat

This conversion to Power is not very simple as instructions from sellers of kist leave a lot to be desired particulary Zip Corvette which has no technical expertise at all. While almost in with some tough issues yet pending. Corvette Central is a bit better but still limited tech knowlege. The main one is the pedal location and terrible access under dash to reach what needs done such as finding a way to adjust the brake light switch to suit the new pedal position. If I had to this again I'd problably not convert to Power and keep the manual hydraulic brakes instead but, I'm now too far into the install to back off.. The one good thing is the 69 went to the push type brake light switch. But the 68 had a lever type switch instead of the more modern type as in the 69 and on.You'v really done a lot to improve the 69 but still a mile to go. Manly becasuse of access under dash.

 

Where can I get longer clevis to raise the pedal about 1" higher and still fit the booster studs and tthreadsthreads??? that would help raise the better a bit higher than the gas pedal.