live4corvette

I have replaced the front sway bar bushings (urethane kit from Rock Auto) and links, upper and lower ball joints (Moog from Rock Auto), upper and lower control arm bushings, inner and outer tie rod ends (Moog), front springs and shocks, rear shocks, rear mono spring, rear strut bushings and Borgerson power steering gearbox conversion from factory manual steering. I did not reinstall the steering damper from the original manual steering and I did not replace the idler arm or drag link end.


I had a four wheel alignment done and installed new BF Goodrich TA Radial tires and everything was set to factory specs. The caster was set to +2.11 and +1.86. After the alignment there is 3-4" of steering wheel play before any response and the front end wanders all over the road. It is very difficult to control. I also have a lot of vibration in the steering wheel. I talked to Gil at Borgeson and he said the caster should be set at -3 to -5. My alignment shop said there is no way that would work.


What should the correct caster setting be with the Borgeson conversion?


Do I need the steering damper?


Should I replace the idler arm?


Should I replace the drag link end?


Any other ideas?

0Willcox Corvette

I would definitely check the condition of the idler arm and drag link... either could cause the car to wander.

You should not need a dampner with power steering. One complaint that we get on the aftermarket set up's on the 1963-1967 cars is that they are over responsive due to the tire size. This makes the cars unstable because the steering is better than the ability of the tires. But I've not had this issue on the 1969-1982 cars. We service a 69 with Borgsen conversion car in our shop all the time and it drives like a dream but has stock wheels and tires.

Below I've posted the factory specs from the AIM for the 1968 car. r

Willcox

427Hotrod

Either there is play in the linkage somewhere or there's something wrong with the box. I've had their box on my car for quite a few years now with no issue. I originally ran +2.5* caster and it was fine. I recently added VB upper control arms and am at +6*. The comment about -3/-5 was just misspoken. You need POSITIVE caster.

Try moving the wheel with the engine off and someone watching the linkage. Is the adjuster on the ball joint at the pitman arm adjusted? Is there play there? Does the idler arm move when you steer the wheels?

JIM

live4corvette

Thanks for the info. I have stock rally wheels with new BF Goodrich 225 70R15 tires. I think the stock size was 205 75R15. Will that make a difference?

live4corvette

Thanks. The positive caster makes more sense according to my alignment shop. I will check some of the other pieces. I am a day one rookie when it comes to steering linkage and suspension. This is my first time working on any of this.

oz68VET

I found with my conversion (68 manual steer with non Tele/tilt column) that compressing the steering shaft to fit the Borgeson in broke up the 'plastic' bond that was installed when built to stop any slop between the inner and outer steering shaft columns. I haven't pulled the column to fix the slop yet, but I can move the wheel maybe 1" before the shaft in the engine bay responds. So it might be worth checking the column out too.

live4corvette

Good tip. I will check that as well. How would you repair it if there is slop?

oz68VET

I'm not certain, but guessing I'll put some resin in place of the expired plastic? Will let you know when I do it!

Tampa Jerry

Keep an eye on the poly sway bar bushings. I have had four sets on two cars go south in a few months. I ended up replacing front and back with rubber. Jerry

Neil B

Tell the alignment shop to shim the back of the upper control arm and put as much positive caster as possible into the car without going overboard on camber (adding caster will add camber - nothing you can do about it). The more caster you add the better it will feel. My car with the Borgeson setup is also VERY sensitive to toe. I've settled on 1/8" total toe (1/16" per side) but it's less twitchy with more.

texbeasr3

Make sure the rag joint hex screws are tight. Mine got loose over time. Use some Loctite on them during tightening.

Neil B

Yes, mine do too. I can feel it in the wheel if you try turning the wheel with the engine off.

live4corvette

There is no play in the collapsible steering shaft. It appears that all of the play is in the gearbox. Is there a way to adjust the gearbox? The rag joint is new and all connections are tight. The odometer shows 32,000 miles, but based on the condition of all bushings and suspension components I am assuming it is 132,000. All of the suspension appeared to be original, so I have ordered a new idler arm and drag link rebuild kit. After all of those changes I will take it back to the alignment shop and add as much positive caster as possible. I will update after that. I have all new calipers and rotors ready to go on as well. Could a warped rotor cause vibration?

terrys6t8roadster

Warped rotor will cause pedal pulsation when braking. Adjustment to steer box; wheels up in the air, loosen jam nut while holding adjustor screw in place, turn in adjuster screw, tighten lock nut. Turn steer wheel back and forth, you should feel a slight drag during rotation at the center. If not more adjustment is required. If adjuster screw ends up below the jam nut, get a different box, as the one you have would be considered worn out. As I mentioned in one of your previous posts the boxes are used boxes. Is the alignment shop you use experienced with our C3s. A 4 wheel alignment is required. Just because the rear toe is set properly it also needs to be set with the front or you end up with rear wheels going one way and the fronts going another. T

live4corvette

Thanks again Terry. I will try the adjustments. My alignment guy is a Goodyear tire dealer that I take all of my vehicles to for service. He is not familiar with C3's. Does anyone know of a shop in Dayton or Springfield Ohio that specializes in C3 alignment?