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My L36 rebuild is nearly complete and I'm debating on whether to go with headers or stick with the stock manifolds. I'm not a fabricator of any sort nor do I want to make any changes to current frame/body configuration. I'm thinking shorties or mid-length headers might fit nicely but I have no experience. I'd appreciate recommendations on specific headers, or none at all if the entire concept is a PITA. I'm also shopping for nice sounding mufflers Thank you very much!
I have Hedmann coated longtubes in mine 72 BB, no issues or modification needed, fits like glove!
ROTFL, ... never burnt a plug wire/boot, never had header flange bolt become loose,
never melted nearby components, never had a collector gasket flow out, never drug headers over a speed bump. ... ok if you say so !
These do a very nice job of protecting wire boots from the header tubes. Re-torquing bolts a couple times after a few heat cycles is easy and keeps gaskets from blowing out. Besides, the really good gaskets are made of materials that don't blow out. If they start leaking you just tighten the bolts and the leak is gone.
I get it if it's not worth a little maintenance or some preventative measures for you to use headers. That's a personal choice and there's no wrong answer. For me and a lot of other folks, the extra power is worth a little extra effort. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14262
I have to strongly disagree. I have Hooker Super Comps, coated long tube and I have no fitment issues at all, not even the "small dimple" you admit to having to put in for your Hedmans.
Are you sure you're talking about true Hooker headers? Maybe some cheap knock offs? My Hookers were around $700, so they're not the most expensive, but surely not some Blackjack from back in the day.
No problem. Over the years I've seen photos of Hooker headers that were posted here specifically to show the reduced ground clearance. I couldn't tell you what part numbers they were or when they were manufactured, but they definitely were Hookers. They do make a quality header and this is the only criticism I've ever heard about them. If yours don't have that issue that's great. Perhaps the design has been changed over the years.
Hedman makes a specific header for C2 and C3 Corvettes which is what I have.
2" primary and 3" collector to 3" dual exhaust. They have better ground clearance than the hooker headers, but are not quite as long. So you have some give and take.
If you have aftermarket heads with raised Exh ports, you will most likely ding the #3 tube to clear your steering box. My passenger side fit fine.
Hedman makes a specific header for C2 and C3 Corvettes which is what I have.
2" primary and 3" collector to 3" dual exhaust. They have better ground clearance than the hooker headers, but are not quite as long. So you have some give and take.
If you have aftermarket heads with raised Exh ports, you will most likely ding the #3 tube to clear your steering box. My passenger side fit fine.
I have to put this, I truly believe Hooker is getting a bad name here, for whatever reason......
I guess the design has been changed over the years from present back to when all you guys say that Hooker doesn't have the ground clearance that any other header does. I just can't see how Hooker headers could possibly have any more clearance, with the same size tubes/collector. My headers are very close to the bottom floor, and just enough room for all the factory insulating materials in that area.
This is not the best pic, and the right side is the back, and it's not installed all the way, but this will give you an idea. None of it hangs more than an inch below the transmission cross member, if that far.
I think it is the 2 1/8 inch primary under chassis headers that many of us have had a problem with regarding ground clearance. I tried them but just would not work. At that point I went to sidemounts. Stock, the Hooker sidemounts were terrible. One collector was so off that it pointed towards the car. I needed to modify them anyway since I have raised port heads so I cut and re welded them to make them work. Not one to bash, but in my experience the Hooker's quality leaves something to be desired.
The other advice I would give is to never buy the coated header from Hooker. Did not last. Buy the raw headers and modify them as needed and then have them coated yourself.
Last edited by 69ttop502; Aug 11, 2017 at 06:35 AM.
I only had to make a little room by denting the Hedman header to clear the frame on the passenger side. Otherwise they drop right in.
You do need to have mid pipes made to connect to the back half of the exhaust.
When I switched it was a VERY noticeable difference in power.
BTW I had my coated in black so they don't stand out.
ddawson, I finally got my Hedman's installed. I had the same experience as you - had to dent the passenger side a little to clear the frame. I was surprised to have to do this. My frame is straight. Anyway, I'm looking for to checking out the new power!
ddawson, I finally got my Hedman's installed. I had the same experience as you - had to dent the passenger side a little to clear the frame. I was surprised to have to do this. My frame is straight. Anyway, I'm looking for to checking out the new power!
I had to do the same thing. Not a big deal and well worth it for the power increase. Enjoy.
These do a very nice job of protecting wire boots from the header tubes. Re-torquing bolts a couple times after a few heat cycles is easy and keeps gaskets from blowing out. Besides, the really good gaskets are made of materials that don't blow out. If they start leaking you just tighten the bolts and the leak is gone.
I get it if it's not worth a little maintenance or some preventative measures for you to use headers. That's a personal choice and there's no wrong answer. For me and a lot of other folks, the extra power is worth a little extra effort. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/the-14262
FYI..if you have issues with spark plug boots getting burnt from headers, these wires are the bomb....with Ceramic boots..they will NOT get burnt by headers even with direct contact:
FYI..if you have issues with spark plug boots getting burnt from headers, these wires are the bomb....with Ceramic boots..they will NOT get burnt by headers even with direct contact:
That looks like a great product, and less expensive than my route. I bought some Thermo-Tec Cool-It Plug Wire sleeves to protect my new MSD 8.5mm wires.
That looks like a great product, and less expensive than my route. I bought some Thermo-Tec Cool-It Plug Wire sleeves to protect my new MSD 8.5mm wires.
I have them on my 355 L-82 with AFR heads and 1 7/8 inch long tube headers and they are GREAT! I highly recommend them. I was burning Spark plug boots like crazy before these wires even with the boot protectors....
FYI..if you have issues with spark plug boots getting burnt from headers, these wires are the bomb....with Ceramic boots..they will NOT get burnt by headers even with direct contact:
I'm looking into which headers to run on my 73 big block.
Both the hooker super comps and the hedmans seem to be manufactured from 18 ga mild steel, head flanges are equal thickness, and the assembly processes read to be close. The one thing I did notice, which has always been one of the big selling points for me over the years, is that the hookers are still tuned (all primary tubes are equal length) and the hedmans are not. This always created a slightly tighter fit with the hookers but then the hookers will create equal back pressure in each cylinder where the hedmans will not. I think header choice, like many things on the forum is about personal preference. I've always put hookers on my cars and Bassetts on my boats, because in my opinion they have the best quality. As far as fit, and ground clearance, I've never had an issue.
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