HELP HELP HELP HELP !!!!!

I AM TRYING TO RESTORE A 1976 CORVETTE...
I HAVE INSTALLED A NEW MOTOR AND A NEW TRANSMISSION
THE CAR HAS BEEN SITTING UP QUITE A BIT LATELY BETWEEN THE GLASS SHOP AND THE BODY SHOP IT HAS PROBABLY BEEN DRIVEN 5 TIMES IN A SIX MONTH PERIOD.
WHEN I FIRST BOUGHT THE CAR ABOUT 2 YEARS AGO IT WAS IN A VERY DELAPIDATED CONDITION. THE FIRST THING I DID WAS DROP THE GAS TANK TO CLEAN IT OUT. IT APPEARED TO HAVE BEEN SITTING UP (THE CAR) FOR MAYBE 10 YEARS :eek: I DROVE THE CAR 3 DAYS AGO FOR A SHORT DRIVE . EVERY THING SEEMED GREAT... FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES, THEN THE CAR WANTED TO STALL UNLESS I PUSHED THE GAS PEDAL ABOUT HALF WAY DOWN...IT NOW WILL NOT IDLE AT ALL, WHEN I CRANK IT I HAVE TO REALLY HIT THE GAS TO KEEP IT ALIVE...AND IT SPUTTERS OUT EVERY TIME...MY FIRST GUESS WAS THAT THE FUEL FILTER WE INSTALLED BEFORE THE CARB MIGHT BE CLOGGED. I REPLACED THE FILTER. I TOOK THE OLD METEL FILTER AND CUT IT IN HALF TO FIND QUIET A BIT OF RUST FLAKES AND PARTICLES IN IT....HOW DO I TROUBLE SHOOT THIS PROBLEM...I WAS ASSUMEING THAT IF THE GAS TANK(RUBBER BLADDER)WAS CLEAN , THE RUST IS COMING FROM THE FUEL LINES. SHOULD I REPLACE SENDING UNIT??? FUEL LINES? FUEL PUMP? WE HAVE ALSO ADDED A FUEL PRESURE GAUGE...COULD THE VAPOR LINES OR CANISTER COME INTO PLAY??? IF THE FUEL LINES ARE RUSTED SHOULD I ALSO REPLACE TRANS AND BRAKE LINES ???
IF I HAVE LEFT ANY IMPORTANT INFO OUT PLEASE REPLY... NO ONE SEEMS TO WANT TO HELP WITH JUST A PROJECT CAR (EVEN IF IT IS A STINGRAY!!!!!!!!!!!!) I THOUGHT THE FUEL LINES WERE STAINLESS WHERE ELSE COULD THE RUST BE COMING FROM... ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED>!!! :smash: :flag

 

Welcome aboard.

First off could you please take the caps lock off, my ears are hurting from your yelling.:lol:

As for the rust in the fuel filter, I would say it came from your gas tank.... It doesn't mean that the rust came from the tank rusting but it could have come from the gas station's rusting storage tanks.

Your carb could probably go for a rebuild too.

Hope this helps :seeya

 

sorry for the caps i am just really frustrated :mad

 

sounds like it's coming from your tank, I would rebuild the carb and put a new filter on it.. Run the car till it's just about on empty and then take the new filter off, open it up and check again. Replace the filter and refill the tank (Use a different gas station!). Run it for a day or two, remove the filter and check it again. Then you can go from there. :cheers:


[Modified by Madmikeee, 11:32 AM 10/4/2002]

 

Dont rule out the fuel lines. I replaced mine due to rust.
I also agree that you should rebuild the carb.

Stew

 

OK caps are off guys!!!
there was a lot of rust...and i only buy gas from reputable stations
usually chevron...how hard would it be to change the fuel lines???
what all is involved
ddd :crazy:

 

I would start at the carb before messiing with the fuel lines. Mine sat for 24 years and we did not touch the lines - no problems here.

 

Unfortunately, I understand it's pretty hard. You'll probably have to remove the body from the frame to do it.

JB

 

Removing the body from the frame to replace the fuel and brake lines is false.
I have replaced everything on my 74 without doing so. I believe the guy that wrote the book "How to Restore and Modify your Corvette" started that old rumor.

Stew

 

During my body-off project, I decided to go to stainless lines.......and I'm sure glad a did.

When I went to remove the gas line, it broke in half when I twisted it out of the rear portion of the frame. It broke at the point inside the upper rear frame rail where it is wrapped in cloth (to minimize rattling I'm guessin'). Moisture sitting inside the cloth gave it time and opportunity to do it's dirty rusty deed. :mad

Definitely a body-lift to replace the line.

NOTICE: If, for any reason, you lift the body of any C2 or C3, REPLACE the gas and brake lines then.
:yesnod:

 

I think I read that someone had run a braided line. Might work as a stop gap measure but get's into higher $.

 

Pull the rubber lines off the steel, and look you will see rust if it's all that bad....blow the lines clear of all fluids with air....examine the rags used to collect the fluids for rust particles/water/gas....etc...insects???
IF the lines are bad enough to make you nervous, get two 6' brake lines from a parts house and a coupler fitting....total cost about ten bux, if that....
might want to do the return line also....while you are at it....
with a bit of attention you can have both lines done before the parts order department even gets on the stick to ship both lines in stainless, and then leave you hoping it get there unbent/kinked.....
do it the easy way....

GENE

 

I have heard these comments before about the fuel lines: lift the body. And I have no doubt it is true! But surely you can cut the line at some point, thread it through the available restriction/space, and splice it with an appropriate fluid-tight and pressure-tight connector. Is this not feasible?

 

Don't know about '79s Paul, but on the earlier cars the line goes "inside" the frame rail part way up the rear kickup and exits the rail at the far end (rear) of the car. Good luck getting a line inside the kickup without pulling the body. :crazy:

 

I will have a look. And take pics. This problem intrigues me.

 

There is a good chance that your bladder is probably gone and the rust and deposits are coming from the tank itself. The bladder is a good idea when they stay in one piece, but many bladder tanked cars have collapsed bladders. One symptom is not being able to get as much as you should in the tank. When the bladder collapses it could dry out and get a hole in it.
I think one major flaw of the bladder and steel tank combination is that condensation can form on the surface of the bladder and contribute to rusting.
My Haynes Owners Workshop Manual has a recommendation for tanks with bladders, "Cars with this type of tank liner should not remain empty. If the car is to be stored for any length of time, the tank cover plate should be removed and non-detergent 10W oil sprayed on the inner surface of the bladder." (10.5 page 59, 1986 edition)
I'd suggest that after you blow out the fuel lines, and insure that they are clean, if you continue to have problems, drop the tank and check the tank and liner for tears and rust.
If you need a new tank, check with Quanta Products They have reproduction gastanks for 1975-77 Corvettes at a fairly reasonable price. I copied this from their website.
Corvette Gas Tank, 1975-77
Exact reproduction Corvette gas tank with 3 year warranty.
Price $212.00
Good Luck, and welcome to the Forum, this place will save you a lot of money and grief.

 

Smokehouse69 just said what I was thinking. If that tank sat low on fuel for 10+ years, the bladder may have dry-rotted causing splits, cracks or holes. If all the advice above fails, look into a new tank.

Good luck!

 

Put an oversized filter between the fuel pump and the carb. You could use one of those "generic" ones that are a clear plastic so you can see when it's getting dirty, then change it. I think you will probably capture most of the rust within a couple of changes. Make sure for safety reasons the filter is not near the manifolds or subject to getting knocked around where it could break...I'm afraid I'm at a loss, not familiar with the bladder? I don't believe my 75 has one, pretty sure it's all steel in there. I'm certainly not trying to contradict a few of the other posts here, but I'm just not sure about what years had bladders.


[Modified by Big Fish, 10:41 PM 10/4/2002]

 

Hey guys you dont know how glad i am i found this forum...
i took your advice this weekend and pulled the carb... i took the top half off (eldebrook) and found a lot of rust in the resevoir under each float.. cleaned the rust out and replaced the carb. still no go (it was a little better though) i feel the rust has gone into the idle jets ,which is keeping the car from idleing, it is going to the shop today (the carb)
thanks for all your help...
dale dowie
bbprepro@knology.net :smash:

 

I'd take it apart and totally rebuild it. I rebuilt a friends edelbrock 600 and the complete kit cost me $80 canadian and it was well worth it.