Per the title, the time has finally come for me to start my alternator swap (because I killed my old alternator this weekend...). I know I want a CS144 alternator that will support 140 amps. Beyond that there's a lot I'm not perfectly clear on or simply don't know at all...


Things I think I know:

• I'll need a new, 6 AWG wire run from the alternator's "hot" post to the starter. -I plan to leave the original wire in place and run them in parallel. I know running to the battery is a 2nd option, with benefits but I just don't want to do it.
• The CS144 alternator's sepentine pulley can be removed and I should be able to just swap my current alternator's v-belt pulley directly onto it.
• I might need a new alternator belt.

Things I'm really confused about:

• Apparently there are lots of very difference CS144 alternators; what's the difference and which one do I need? I think one of the primary differences is in the mounting locations and mounts used. I really would love to find an alternator that can directly use my existing alternator bracket and current placement...
• Adapters- I'm 80% sure I need some sort of adapter from whatever comes on the CS144 to the plug that came on my stock alternator (i think it's called a 12SI altenrator)- what plug do I need? Does it have a name?
• If for some reason I need a new belt, how the heck do I figure out what new belt I need?
• Roughly how many feet of wire do I need to run from the alternator to the starter? (What route does the stock wire take?)
• What type of cable ends do I need?
• I do not want to intentionally create a small electric fire with a fuseable link if something goes wrong; but I'm very much open to the idea of a small inline fuse attached to the starter lug. I think 250 amp is about the right size based upon a post of Lionelhutz's; anyone have a link to such an animal?
• "One Wire Alternator" -what is it, should I have one? Is my original a one-wire? what are the implications of switching to one?

Yes, I've read through this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...r-upgrade.html

Thanks all!
Adam

 

Read post #24 again. It will tell you what adapter to get to go from 12si to cs-144.

 

You can pick up a CS144 alternator for a '93 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham w/5.7L. NAPA # 1N-4625G (63065). The case will have to be separated and re-clocked to get the mounting holes to line up. Can't remember which way to clock or how much but it should be evident. There may have been other alternator options for the '93 Caddy so make sure you get the 144.

Be sure and put a fusible link on the starter end of your 6 gauge wire. If I remember correctly, the fusible link should be one gauge size smaller than the wire it is protecting, so you would need an 8 gauge fusible link.

For the wiring adapter, I used NAPA EC82. This adapter has a resistor that's required for vehicles without generator lights. If the excitation circuit does not have sufficient resistance, the alternator will fail. NAPA does have the same adapter without the resistor if your car happens to have a generator light but I think you can run the resistor version anyway.

There should be a ton of old threads on this forum regarding the swap to a CS144. That's where I picked up the info I needed to make the swap in my '73.

Good luck,

DC

 

Before you start, I'd suggest you explore the GM CS130D alternator. This is a complete redesign of the original CS130. Externally it looks something like something from a MOPAR. It is physically the same size (roughly) as your O.E. alternator and has a very good output. The redesign improved cooling and allowed it to endure high underhood temps and keep working.

I have TPI, Vintage AC, a Lincoln MK VIII fan and all of the other electrical goodies and it works for me.

 

1996 CHEVROLET IMPALA 5.7L V8
ACDELCO 3342401A (334-2401A) Alternator / Generator $ 100.79 $ 22.00 1 $ 122.79
Shipping Priority Mail $ 6.99
Order Total

rock auto

then, the plug for new alt
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS S552 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Info
Category: Alternator / Generator Connector
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$7.95

for the connector from rock auto

swap pulleys, run a #6 to the starter from the alternator( I put that in the 3/8 split tube used for wires) I used a fuse block from walmart stereo isle,( comes with 40 amp and 70 amp fuses, use the 70). I have 2 feet of unprotected #6 coming off the starter but I made sure it would not be rubbed thru or the insulation burned off by being too close to the headers.
heavy wire on the alt plug can go to the alt + stud with the #6, or you can splice it to the heavy red that plugged into orig alt , 2nd wire on plug is not used, third thin wire goes to the thin brown that went to the original alternator plug
that is for my 77 with a voltage meter. If you have an ammeter you have to hunt down the correct resistor and install that between the 3rd thin wire on the plug and the thin wire that went into the orig alt plug
I had to make an extension to my alt bracket due to tall valve covers

 

Here is my CS144 install thread with pics if it will help you.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-install.html

Most of the CS144s are the same, but you can certainly order one from a 93' Cadillac Broughm with the 5.7l if you are getting one from an Auto Part store.


I got mine from www.alternatorparts.com.

He sells a High Output CS144 that has worked great for me for 7 years/22k miles. The part store CS144s would not keep up at idle for me once they got hot.

 

I got my alternator from a u-pull it just to test it out before I made the investment in a new one. I got it out of a early '90's Cadillac. No modification needed to mount up to my '68. I bought the adapter from http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_81/Alternator-Wiring-Harnesses.htm

mine was a 10dn do the wiring is a little different. The belt I ended up with is a 54.25" yours will depend on your pulley size. I swapped out the pulley from my old alternator. I ran a additional 6awg wire to the starter with a 14 gauge fuseable link. I Also ran a much larger cable from alternator directly back to the battery. I'm sure it is overkill but better safe than sorry. I got the cable and junction box from a 3 series BMW perfect length. I'm sure there are better conversions but that's what I did. I wanted the junction box so I can run my fans and headlight motors of of it. Wiring is not buttoned up yet clip is still not installed.

Junction box
Cable to battery along with fan ignition wire. Utilizing the hole from the fiber optics I'm not using.

 

If you don't mind sacrificing the old belt then cut it and wrap it around the pulleys and measure how much too short it is. Stretch it out and measure it's length. Add the 2 numbers together and that's the new length to try. Otherwise, just buy a few and try them.

The wire would route from the alternator back to the firewall then along the firewall before dropping down to the starter. You can either go back along the inside of the valve covers or out to the fender and then back.

I've never seen a fuse/holder combination I would trust down by the starter. It's simply not a place you want to put a fuse. I'd put more faith in a fusible link being OK then a fuse by the starter not leaving you stranded.

A 1-wire alternator just requires the main charging wire. You probably don't want one because you lose the charging light. You also lose the ability to use the remote voltage sensing if you require it. I think in the 79 the voltage sensing wire on the stock alternator is tied to the charging wire shortly after leaving the alternator. but, you can tie it to a wire from the interior or from the point you are powering electric fans so it compensates for the voltage drop in the wire from the alternator to the point you connect the sensing wire.

 

I got mine from a boneyard also. I got it just to see if it would fit and it bolted right up. Cost me like 24 bucks. It is an AC Delco CS-144 140 amp Alternator off a 1999 Lumina, VIN K. I got the nicest one that I saw.
AC Delco part number 321-1144.... one of those goofy looking ones with a 3rd ear. It has the main attachment holes 180° apart so I thought I'd try it (really, just to see if it fit--- but when I got it tested at autozone they told me it was in good shape).
The 12si (I converted my 68 to 12si years before) adapter + the new belt ended up costing me more than the alternator. The reason I did not make my own adapter is because this way I could swap back to a 12si if it failed.
Anyway, there are tons of these since they were used on like 32 different models of Chevys, Pontiacs, Buicks, and Oldsmobiles. I initially mounted it as-is. I later lopped of that 3rd ear. It's been working fine for like 10 years.
Below is an image from the net.

 

I installed a new CS-144 for a 94 Corvette and it was plug and play, my previous one was a SI-12 if I'm not wrong.