Went to start my 1981, turned key on and lights and everything came on. Went to turn it over, heard a clack sound, then nothing. No power at all even with key on. I jiggled the wiring close to the starter then I had power again, but same thing. I took the starter off and harness that goes to it off. The harness looks like crap as does the big wire that goes over the top of the trans (assume going to the battery?). Also looks like I just figured out why my oil temp gauge doesn't work (that plug goes it it and then nowhere).

What is the name of this harness should I get a new one?
Why does the fat battery wire look odd (has that big red thing on it and looks frayed)?
Any other thoughts?

 

looks like you have a few oil leaks also

 

Yeah, just went through the monster task of replacing the dented oil pan with the engine still in the car lol

 

Lectric Limited has them and they are called the starter extension harness so something like that. call them and they will know what you are referring to when you describe it.

http://www.lectriclimited.com/starte...harness-102289

And...for what this is worth. I have cut out that connector where the two harnesses join and solder them together. This was bad idea from GM and they did away with it and with all of the current going to the fuse panel and starter....this connector can get dirty and hot and melt in time...unless you are a purist and it has to be facotry correct.

DUB

 

Starter Extension Harness is it.
That connector was a poor idea that some engineer had. Probably made something easier on the assembly line, but it's a real PITA out in the "real" world after 40 years. AS Dub said, unless you're looking at factory original appearances, cut that connector out and do a proper splice repair to the wires that go to the starter.

 

Do you put a fusible link in both the new wire ends?

 

No... if you replace the jumper you should be set... here is a picture of what it looks like.



https://willcoxcorvette.com/corvette...xtension-81-82

 

Do you also have the cable that goes from the battery to the starter? Mine looks like it's been spliced or messed with. Also, how in thehell do you replace that, seems like it runs on top of the transmission.

 

Unfortunately, there isn't a reproduction of the battery cable for the 1981-1982 cars. You might try your local parts house to see if they offer a generic version, they have them but you can buy it just as cheap from them as you can from me. The positive cable should be aprox. 91" long and was issues under part number 12028598 as a replacement cable for all cars 1969-1982.

Willcox

 

If you get a cable from a local parts store, make sure it has the same terminals as your battery, 69 used a top post and later they went to side post. 2 totally different connectors.

 

After ordering that new harness I decided to fix the old one with some wire I had around. Fixed it, reinstalled, still nada on power. I then got to looking at that main wire and found someone spliced in the last foot (poorly). I was able to measure voltage on both sides (since bare wire was exposed). 13v on the battery side and 3v on the starter side. While dropping the starter again the wire just completely let go. My life is gonna suck now.

 

I can say that replacing the positive battery cable is NO FUN. You will run into clearance issues and possibly the clamps that hold the battery cable being moved over slightly towards the threaded stud that it is attached to and thus...you trying to get a 6 point socket or wrench on it can be a challenge.

The the fun also occurs when you are trying to get it to fit correctly and make the curves that it needs to make so it is not rubbing or touching on anything that can damage it.

Then...if that is not bad enough...making sure that there is enough...but not too much cable inside the battery box area and also that the end of the cable that attaches to the starter solenoid is correct also.

For what this may nor may not be worth to you. When I have to do a job like this and the cable has to be one that is not a correct reproduction. I start at the battery and get that area correct and when I am working towards the starter solenoid. I hopefully have too much cable length. That way... if I do...I remove the terminal at the end of the cable and cut the cable to where I want it and re-attach the terminal then use shrink wrap to protect the crimp.

I horde the factory terminal ends at the solenoid due to how they are bent and have a locking tab on them that fits into a notch on the solenoid ...instead of putting a strait terminal end on with a large hole in it to attach to the starter solenoid....which will cause the battery cable to not route correctly as it should.

DUB

 

Do I have to route it the same way? Has anyone ran it a different way to make it easier?

 

In this scenario....PLEASE do not try to 're-invent the wheel'.

Route it as it was routed by GM. It may be a pain in the backside....but worth doing this correctly.

And I have seen some people who routed it on the inside of the car and when a problem occurred in doing this...it set carpet on fire....because this cable is not protected.

This cable is not protected with by fuse or fusible link or anything.

This is your positive battery cable and it is carrying all of your battery current to the solenoid...and if you try to make it easier and do it differently..and that cable gets damaged and touches a metal portion of your car...it can cause that wire to super heat up and possibly cause the battery to swell and explode.

Do as you wish.

DUB

 

I really want to do it right. Guess I'll start taking the seats out. Probably need to remove the driveshaft also. Been doing some reading on it, looks like a hella job but I've got to do it.

There's a little whisper in the back of my mind (go ahead and pull the whole thing, make it a 383 like you've always wanted).......

 

This job is a lot easier with the trans removed. You could change up to an OD trans while you're at it, maybe a 383 too!

 

For what this is worth. I would not take out the seats. A vast majority of what you are ding is under the car.

DUB

 

Just got the car rolled into the garage (it died just outside of it). I'm going to remove the trans and go from there.

 

Before I pulled the trans (or anything else) I think I'd root around and see if I couldn't figure out how to replace the cable without all the hassle. Won't be real easy, but might be easier than rip and tear.

 

100%

I have never had to take out a transmission to change out a positive battery cable.

It is not easy but it is not impossible also...because...heck I can do it...and I have no super human skills.

DUB